Mystery neapolitan shirt

[pejsek]

I saw this shirt today at a thrift store with all of the hallmarks of the Neapolitan style--extra thick MOP buttons with the distinctive crow's foot stitch, hand-sewn buttonholes, sleeves attached by hand, a bit of showy handwork on the shoulder yoke, and small triangular side-gussets also with hand stitching. No label, but there was a size marker so I'm sure it's not bespoke. The only clue was a sort of embossed 'F' on the side gussets, much like the 'B' or 'LB' you would see on a Borrelli shirt. I actually recognized the original owner's initials on the inside, which makes me sure it's from a very fine maker; over the years I've seen many donated items from this individual, including dozens of jackets and suits from Pooles and more bespoke Charvet shirts than I would ever care to count.
I actually passed on the shirt because the collar stance was just a bit too much for me, a very high-buttoning button-down with a very dramatic roll. My rule of thrift shopping karma is to leave it if it's not just right for you. But I am curious. And I did, however, pick up a beautiful bespoke silk dressing gown from Sulka. I've always wanted to see one of these and it is quite an amazing piece of work in a brown and red paisley with red piping.

 

[Thracozaag]

Probably Finnamore.

koji

 

[pejsek]

Wow. Thanks for the quick reply. I'm sure you're right. Any idea how Finnamore fits into the constellation of Neapolitan shirt-makers?

 

[faustian bargain]

i wish my local thrift store was as well-stocked...

 

[Thracozaag]

It's certainly up there with the Barbas, Borrellis, Attolinis and Kitons of the world. Not having tried them personally, I can't comment. Domenico Vacca in nyc has a Finnamore MTM program, so it must be a damn good shirt.

koji

 

[VMan]

That's great that you continuously find top-shelf items donated by the same person. Are you lucky enough that all the items fit perfectly?

I wish I had the same situation as you. The best that I've got is a tiny hole-in-the-wall dump of a thrift store I've discovered. The shirts are usually junk, but every time I've been in there (5 times) I find at least one Oxxford 3-button suit. Every time so far, and they are all the same exact size (46R...unfortunately I am a 38-40R). All I can think of is that someone must have donated a huge amount of Oxxfords, and that they are constantly getting added to the rack of new clothes that get put out every week.

All I need to do is slip the nice ladies who work there a $50 bill and ask if I can browse around the back for a couple hours....

 

[discostu004]

finamore=excellent stuff.

 

[naturlaut]

Actually, according to Vacca, Finamore makes a better shirt than Attolini. (Really?.?) I wanted to have a custom Attolini once, and they recommended Finamore. They do custom Attolini suits, but not their shirts. Just take it for what it's worth.

But your description of high neck, dramatic roll fits into the description, and I would guess the shirt you saw is Finamore too.

 

[brescd01]

How much do those Finnamore MTM run and how long do they take, do you know? Also, is there a big difference for most people in the fit of a MTM shirt versus a bespoke shirt?

 

[kabert]

I've got an Andrea Finamore shirt that I bought last year. The fabric is beautiful, silky cotton. Very nice. But I wouldn't say it's any better than Borrelli, for example. At least the one I got appears to be entirely machine made -- none of the individual stitching one sees in Kiton, Borrelli and Barba (not sure about Attolini, as I've never seen one in person). Not that lack of hand stitching should damn a shirt or its maker if it's well made of high quality fabric. Besides, it was cheaper than those hand-made shirts.

I paid $75 for it and bought it brand new on EBay from seller "the world's finest" (who's also the seller from whom many people on this board and AskAndy have been buying Borrelli suits and blazers, not to mention shirts and slacks).