Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.
Like maybe this Tammis Keefe original of the Unruly Reindeer
I can't decide if this discussion is enligtening or surreal. Either way: Hippo melons breed walnuts.
That's what I said, eh?!
Is coaxing another term for sniffing snow?
Most tailors do not control the curve with a pattern when they prepoare/cut it, they just make it freehand, so they often turn out differenty.
You may like that or not, like you may prefer a more "artistic" approach vs a more precise make (it is for sure more old school).
Anyway they just dont care in Naples, if you knew how much some of the big (but not only) names offer to other tailors to make bespoke items for them because they cant cope themselves with the demand, you'd eat a broomstick.
And if you knew how many tailors accept to do this for the offered salaries and then even cant pay their workshop's rent and employees on time (and tax-wise make ca.2 suits per year) , you'd eat another one.
Especially for pants it's really ugly, if you order pants that are complicated and un-neapolitan enough, I know exactly who is going to receive a phone call with the request to make them (except you order them at Rubi, there's no need to ride any further on their reputation, but they are one of the few makers doing everything themselves for bespoke, though the bespoke pants dont match the bespoke jackets' in quality IMHO).
Anyone did ever notice that they (being about all Neapolitan tailors) basically just turn outside pleats to the inside in Naples to make pants with inverse pleats and do not adjust the cut??
I'm just sayin...it's not exactly paradise for most of the tailors in Naples.
The vera antica Napoletanan blabla is not really interesting too me as it is full of defects of which some transformed into "features" for many people.
I like some of these things, just as I like my old German tailro who cuts a too small and unsophisticated back or the Florentine guy who make a suit like in 1950.
If you want the real thing go an old tailor and respect it when he puts his "signature" on the suit, otherwise there are enough alternatives to nit pick (I have that one, funnily enough, in Naples).
This barchetta thing is merely technical for me, just like the cuffs of many Ambrosi pants I have seen were technically not well made for me (cut straight from the tapering leg of the pants, so causing slight bunching where the top of the cuffs meet the pants leg as the cuffs were narrower at this place than the pants' leg; can be seen very well in some Korean blogs).
There is a reason why they call me cazzo de cazzi .
Vox, that is insanely awesome.
This might be all wrong but I think I would do flap pockets on a cord suit. I cannot explain this impulse.
IMO, the coat above looks more like Solito than like my (one) NSM.
I have a lighter version of that color waiting in the wings to be made into my second cord suit at some point. I was thinking 2 patch with welt breast like this or standard flap pockets. Decisions, decisions...
I feel like Cord calls for patch pockets. I really couldn't imagine it any other way.
I'm leaning towards that as well. The only thing really stopping me is that my tan tweed sportcoat is already done with two patch and welt breast. Might be nice to have some variation with the two tan winter jackets I would have, but we'll see.
Yep, that's the one that I checked out in Mina and Dino's suite. I hope that Mina was able to remove all of the drool prior to delivering it to you. If not, I apologize. You can feel free to send me the first dry cleaning bill.
I also like cord jackets with flaps, maybe even
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
pockets. I don't know, something very British countryside / hunting & fishing to them that work well with flaps
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