my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sometimes something only feels like nothing until you feel something that feels even more like nothing.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. greger

    greger Senior member

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    My Matuozzo shirts are machine-washed in warm water once a week with regular Tide detergent, and hung dry. The oldest are nearing on four years. The poplins show no wear whatsoever, and the handstitching on all twelve of my shirts has held in place perfectly. Only the twills have shown wear, fraying significantly at the corners of the cuffs--I won't be ordering Riva cotton twill again.

    In comparison my Borrelli shirts practically came apart at the seams after a couple of years under similar treatment. It was dismaying to watch the hand stitching of the sleeve attachment come apart after four or five wash cycles. But then, now that I've seen what hand-stitching looks like when done very well, I should have known better to begin with. From the get-go, tho Borrelli handstitching was easily two or three timess less dense than on my Matuozzo shirts, and much more irregular.


    There are different kinds of thread too. Good thread is better than poor thread.
     
  3. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Sometimes something only feels like nothing until you feel something that feels even more like nothing.
    I am upset that I understood this.
     
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sometimes something only feels like nothing until you feel something that feels even more like nothing.

    You mean kind of like when that porn star had sex with my girlfriend? Am I off base here?
     
  5. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    I have never felt the least bit constricted in any of my shirts. The idea that hand sewing v. machine could make a material difference in how they feel strikes me as preposterous. How can you feel less than nothing?


    But it was you who some time back also said you prefer to feel a pinch from the sleeve at the armpit, or was that only referring to jackets?
     
  6. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Please do--that would be a fascinating experience to follow through your blog. However, I thought shirtmaking and tailoring skill sets were quite distinct?

    I learned to make shirts before I learned to make suits. I don't really enjoy making shirts (perhaps ironically because I enjoy sewing by hand) so I don't usually bother making mine.

    Clearly the Neapolitans take a different view toward the tastefulness of visible hand-stitching.

    I think I'm with the Neapolitans on that one.

    Do one sleeve by hand and one on the machine, then ask the unsuspecting wearer which side is more comfortable.
    I did that with a sportcoat once. I couldn't feel a difference.
     
  7. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    But it was you who some time back also said you prefer to feel a pinch from the sleeve at the armpit, or was that only referring to jackets?

    Jackets, and not a pinch, that's too much, but I want to feel the bottom of the scye.
     
  8. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    I'm not sure how much joy I'll feel when my shirts fall apart, but this is a beautiful notion nonetheless.

    I have an old Hermes tie my father passed down to me a few years back. It was my first "real" tie -- it was a light green with simple printed 'H's on it, not SF approved at all -- but of my siblings, I am the only one whose first name starts with an 'H' just like my father, hence the gift.

    I wore it intensely and often, and today it is mostly retired.

    I rarely wear it anymore -- the keeper has long fallen off, the lining is growing tired and the corners a bit worn, but sometimes I look at it with the feeling of seeing an old friend passed away; an old friend that I had many many good times with.

    I have other items like this -- a pale pink silk-wool scarf I bought during my undergraduate career that is a bit threadbare and rather scuffed, with pulls and wear; a pair of simple deerskin gloves I had as a teen that has seen more winters than I recall.

    I can afford other ties. I do afford other ties. But I wear them with the knowledge that they're for wearing and they are ultimately transient. I take as good care of them as I can, but when their time comes, their time comes. It will be the joy of my wear that ultimately defines my experience with them, not the fear that they will pass away from their delicacy.
     
  9. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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  10. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Jackets, and not a pinch, that's too much, but I want to feel the bottom of the scye.

    Really? I just try to move the armhole wide enough just so I don't feel this at all unless my arms are crossed and I'm leaning forward. Give things more of that sweater/pajama like feel that I like a lot. Have I said too much?
     
  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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  12. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    A nicely poached egg with no white truffle shavings makes me feel this way.


    - B


    FTFY
     
  13. greger

    greger Senior member

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    I concede that it makes sense in theory, but I have been surprised in the past when things had actually been put to the test. Maybe it's time I made myself a pair of shirts...

    That would depend on the type of hand sewing.


    You tested the stitches down the length but not at angles. Tension and stress comes from all angles and probably most times, by far, at angles than length.

    Some of the old tailors say pliable, along with elastic, that some hand stitches have that machines don't have. Although you say there are better machines, nowadays, but do they make pliable seams?
     
  14. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Clothing nerds.
     
  15. greger

    greger Senior member

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    Is Zimmerli hand stitched or is the groin area under too much stress and better served by a machine [​IMG]

    Hand sewn is much nicer.

    The other part of your question is having proper fit so there is no stress, or at least not much. The way to do this is yourself.
     

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