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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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  2. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What of the practice of hand-applying adhesive CVS cloth tape around the inner perimeter of a no-iron shirt collar?

    My understanding from this forum is that while this delicate operation must be redone every five times a shirt is worn, the rewards are immeasurable (well, some of it measurable in terms of detergent and water saved.)

    I would also like to hear from professionals about the 1" vs 2" tape issue.

    Thank you.


    - B


    I hear that shirts held together by just 2" CVS cloth tape and no stitching are more elastic than hand stitched shirts. Of course it now becomes a question of beauty vs. utility. Some prefer the rustic quality of the CVS cloth tape, however.
     


  3. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    What relationships to maids do these clients have?

    [​IMG]


    - B


    not vaginal, if that is what you are hinting at.

    Is Zimmerli hand stitched or is the groin area under too much stress and better served by a machine [​IMG]
     


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I concede that it makes sense in theory, but I have been surprised in the past when things had actually been put to the test. Maybe it's time I made myself a pair of shirts...

    Please do--that would be a fascinating experience to follow through your blog. However, I thought shirtmaking and tailoring skill sets were quite distinct?

    That would depend on the type of hand sewing. The examples posted here show a fine prick trough to the right side; this is much more solid than the completely invisible stitch that is used at Hermès, for example. In fact, when I asked the woman who was doing the armhole finishing whether she thought this kind of stitch would hold up to machine washing she nearly spat at me- of course one would not subject such a work of art to the indignity of a washing machine, and no, she did not think it would hold but a stronger stitch would be visible from the right side and this would look sloppy, in her estimation.

    That's really hot, but we should keep the language family-appropriate.

    Clearly the Neapolitans take a different view toward the tastefulness of visible hand-stitching.
     


  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Well, from his posts on AAAC detailing his uber-hitter clients. I believe you've read those.

    All I can remember is Swiss underwear.

    Is Zimmerli hand stitched or is the groin area under too much stress and better served by a machine [​IMG]

    The latter. But keep in mind, when machine sewing the groin, you're really handling it with two hands and a foot, not just two hands, as when using needle and thread. That's a well-handled groin.
     


  6. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  8. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    Except, when you're paying several hundred euros per shirt, it's not an attitude many can afford.

    My fear of being unable to afford new shirts when mine wear out is what drives me to success in my career.

    Snark aside, fair point, but if I was more concerned with cost I'd be solely using durable and more affordable machine-stitched shirts.

    A part of me does feel that beautiful objects should be treasured -- treasured yes, treasured and cared for well, but worn to their very fullest. Worn properly.

    And when they heave their final breath and fall apart beyond repair, one retires them with the joy of seeing a beautiful object well worn and appreciated to the fullest.
     


  9. Ataturk

    Ataturk Senior member

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    Do one sleeve by hand and one on the machine, then ask the unsuspecting wearer which side is more comfortable.
     


  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I have never felt the least bit constricted in any of my shirts. The idea that hand sewing v. machine could make a material difference in how they feel strikes me as preposterous. How can you feel less than nothing?
     


  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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  12. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    This is only a fair test for the ambidextrous. Many on this site surf one-handed.

    True story.


    - B


    Mostly because of the fantastic tie/wardrobe porn you posted.
     


  13. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A part of me does feel that beautiful objects should be treasured -- treasured yes, treasured and cared for well, but worn to their very fullest. Worn properly.

    And when they heave their final breath and fall apart beyond repair, one retires them with the joy of seeing a beautiful object well worn and appreciated to the fullest.


    From what I gather based on his posts and purchases I think Foo is a big supporter of this kind of philosphy.
     


  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    A part of me does feel that beautiful objects should be treasured -- treasured yes, treasured and cared for well, but worn to their very fullest. Worn properly.

    And when they heave their final breath and fall apart beyond repair, one retires them with the joy of seeing a beautiful object well worn and appreciated to the fullest.


    I'm not sure how much joy I'll feel when my shirts fall apart, but this is a beautiful notion nonetheless.

    I have never felt the least bit constricted in any of my shirts. The idea that hand sewing v. machine could make a material difference in how they feel strikes me as preposterous. How can you feel less than nothing?

    Sometimes something only feels like nothing until you feel something that feels even more like nothing.
     


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