my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Is the black horizontal mark below the stamp a marking for a cut/dart?
    I don't think so, but I don't know what it is.

    My Solito coats look nearly exactly like that draft, but there is no cut where that line is.
     
  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    You can see the back on the grey jacket, there is pulling from the waist diagonally up to the blades.

    Fullness. Necessary. Comfy.
     
  3. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is the black horizontal mark below the stamp a marking for a cut/dart?


    No, it's a guideline for the suppression of the waist at the underarm cut.

    This is the cut Chris is referring to

    [​IMG]
     
  4. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Fullness. Necessary. Comfy.

    Vertical= good. Diagonal= bad
     
  5. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

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    Great post. Thank you.
     
  6. George

    George Senior member

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    I don't think so, but I don't know what it is. My Solito coats look nearly exactly like that draft, but there is no cut where that line is.
    I remember discussing the technique with Des Merrion were the tailor cuts a dart through to the bottom of the coat, like in the template above, he wasn't a fan and said something along the lines that it was an older style of cutting whatever that means.
     
  7. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Jeffryd's pic:

    [​IMG]


    I'm curious to hear about that underarm cut reaching all the way to the armhole. My Italian tailor says that's an Italian thing that allows him to make a much more fitted coat. When the cut doesn't reach the armhole (I think some of Vox's jackets are like that), he calls that an English style, and says it gives more room and freedom, but the coat will not be as fitted. I have two jackets from him, one cut each way, and the way each coat wears seems to confirm that. Comments?

    --Andre
     
  8. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    I remember discussing the technique with Des Merrion were the tailor cuts a dart through to the bottom of the coat, like in the template above, he wasn't a fan and said something along the lines that it was an older style of cutting whatever that means.

    Tailor code for "Homey don't play dat"?

    --Andre
     
  9. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I'm curious to hear about that underarm cut reaching all the way to the armhole. My Italian tailor says that's an Italian thing that allows him to make a much more fitted coat. When the cut doesn't reach the armhole (I think some of Vox's jackets are like that), he calls that an English style, and says it gives more room and freedom, but the coat will not be as fitted. I have two jackets from him, one cut each way, and the way each coat wears seems to confirm that. Comments?

    --Andre


    None of my Steed jackets, SB or DB, with a front cut or not, have an underarm cut that reaches the armhole, FWIW. I don't think I called it English, but something often found in an A&S style jacket.

    As for how it affects closeness of fit, I don't think it implies anything one way or another except that this can be used and is used in the case of my jackets to put more fullness at that point in the chest, a.k.a. a component of drape in the front.


    - B
     
  10. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    If you are referring to the pattern not matching it is normal not to match. There is a horizontal cut under the pocket that requires the horizontal pattern to run like this. Better to have the cut than pattern matching. Fitting can be done without the cut but you have to rebalance the jacket, shorter back, this guy has big blades and that would not be optimal. You can see the back on the grey jacket, there is pulling from the waist diagonally up to the blades.

    Mine have that same dart/cut. I have huge blades.

    I noticed that right off the bat. I'm taking in thee textured solids, and since I'm experimenting with NSM as the successor to my sunny-months Neapolitan RTW, I see solids rather than strong patterns in the future.

    So, thankfully, I can ignore this.


    - B


    Is this cut really required? I just looked at one of my bespoke Naples jackets with similar shaped pattern and it doesn't drop off like that. The horizontal stripe runs perpendicular from one side of the front cut/dart to the other. I tried to find this horizontal cut in the pocket area and there appears to be none. My jacket is equally shaped as the one in the OP's photo. Also take note that the tailor has given thought to how the pattern is drafted on the cloth so that the vertical stripes doesn't just disappear at the dart but is retained and flows smoothly into the pockets. IMO this is a much less disruptive way to treat this seam.

    My jacket:
    [​IMG]

    Someone else's jacket but illustrating the same point:
    [​IMG]
     
  11. George

    George Senior member

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    Tailor code for "Homey don't play dat"? --Andre
    Not necessarily Merrion is a very good cutter and is well aware and well practised in of all the little tricks & techniques that these alchemists of the cloth practice. He does, like most craftsmen have strong opinions (prejudices..?).
     
  12. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I remember discussing the technique with Des Merrion were the tailor cuts a dart through to the bottom of the coat, like in the template above, he wasn't a fan and said something along the lines that it was an older style of cutting whatever that means.

    You can get the same effect by cutting a separate side body and eliminating the cut on the lower part of the front.

    I'm curious to hear about that underarm cut reaching all the way to the armhole. My Italian tailor says that's an Italian thing that allows him to make a much more fitted coat. When the cut doesn't reach the armhole (I think some of Vox's jackets are like that), he calls that an English style, and says it gives more room and freedom, but the coat will not be as fitted.

    Don't know about English vs Italian, but I definitely prefer the cut to go up to the armhole (actually prefer a separate side body- it's even better)
     
  13. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you look closely, the patterns don't match on the side seam of the second jacket so they took the cut, just a smaller one. The cut is definitely a help, especially if you have any kind of a belly at all, or lordosis. I don't think the OP needed such a big cut, but whatever.
     
  14. George

    George Senior member

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    I'm curious to hear about that underarm cut reaching all the way to the armhole. My Italian tailor says that's an Italian thing that allows him to make a much more fitted coat. When the cut doesn't reach the armhole (I think some of Vox's jackets are like that), he calls that an English style, and says it gives more room and freedom, but the coat will not be as fitted. I have two jackets from him, one cut each way, and the way each coat wears seems to confirm that. Comments? --Andre
    No, that technique is not just used in Italy, as I said earlier I have a suit made by an English tailor in the early 90's that is cut exactly like that. That's why I asked what the horizontal line was to make sure that it was exactly the same. My coat that is cut like that does have tremendous shape, whether that particular cutting style is required to give said shape is a question I shall let the tailors answer.
     
  15. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Don't know about English vs Italian, but I definitely prefer the cut to go up to the armhole (actually prefer a separate side body- it's even better)

    Is that because you have better control over pattern matching as well as the shape and freedom of the garment? Or are some of these factors mutually exclusive, no matter what?

    FWIW, the Italian guy switched to the "English" cut after I said that the coat was too tight, for example, if I bent over to tie my shoes. The coat is definitely more drapey, too. All my Mahon coats have that same cut too --- the dart doesn't quite reach the armhole.

    --Andre
     

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