1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. Parker

    Parker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,755
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    Yerba Buena
    Beautiful suit, medtech. Nice proportions for your frame. Thanks for another great write up. Did you make the trousers a tad roomier on this one? They look great.

    For anyone who's on the fence, just go for it. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the high level of quality and the overall experience of working with Mina. As mentioned before, she has a great sense of style and fit, and couldn't be more charming and friendly. Her prices are more than reasonable and customer service and delivery time is excellent.

    Shame there isn't enough bidness in Los Angeles to get them to come down here.

    Mina was just in San Francisco last week. I believe she'll be back later in the Spring. LAX-SFO is only a 50 min flight!

    Great suit, medtech. Slewfoot: do it.

    Go for it, David! That Fox will make up very nicely.
     
  2. ndw

    ndw Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    875
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2008
    [​IMG]

    ^^^Looks fucking great,I am envious.

    +1000
     
  3. vncrz

    vncrz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    465
    Joined:
    May 28, 2009
    Location:
    CR
    +1000

    [​IMG]

    Are those lapels 4" wide?
     
  4. MBreinin

    MBreinin Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,121
    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2009
    Location:
    At the bottom of a Stoli bottle
    I keep thinking that Mina may be a way to dip my feet into bespoke.......

    Mike
     
  5. Guero

    Guero Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    449
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2009
    Location:
    Houston, Texas
    Get rid of that windsor knot. it takes away for the whole Napoli look. It's an oxymoron


    Surprisingly, I disagree. While I favor a FIH, this is one instance where the Windsor looks good. And sorry to be the diction police, but an oxymoron is a contradiction in terms, not concepts. You mean paradox.

    MTE, I may be headed to Naples in June, and I'm thinking seriously about dipping my toe in here. I may be in touch re: the process.
     
  6. TheTukker

    TheTukker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,510
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
    Very nice suit and fit and

    Really enjoying these reports. [​IMG]

    +7

    On the shirt: also very nice, but think that the chest is indeed a bit too tight. Once you can see the fruits of your chest workout, it's probably a bit too tight.
     
  7. forex

    forex Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,595
    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2008
    I keep thinking that Mina may be a way to dip my feet into bespoke.......

    Mike


    Perhaps we can get some interested people and she will make a trip to the South East. I am all in.
     
  8. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,503
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    Slewfoot: do it.

    Go for it, David! That Fox will make up very nicely.

    Terrible influences around here, I tell ya! :^)

    Thinking it over a bit more, I'll probably have her make up my 8/9oz solid gray Minnis Fresco into a 3 piece. I can see her style working nicely with that fabric and I'd like it to be a more casual, Summer suit. It's too bad that LP tan/blue Glen Plaid is discontinued. Curious if she has something else similar in stock when I see her next month in NY. Already have the appointment set up so looking forward to it!
     
  9. Panzeraxe II

    Panzeraxe II Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,080
    Joined:
    May 6, 2006
  10. sellahi22

    sellahi22 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    675
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2010
    perfect fit. honestly one of the best suits that i've seen posted on the internet.

    just as importantly, a perfect match between the house style and your body type and personal style. i don't think the wide lapels, extremely close fit, and lean chest would work for everyone, or even most people.
     
  11. SpallaCamiccia

    SpallaCamiccia Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,364
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2010
    Location:
    Between Pinkos land and the sanitarium.
    I keep thinking that Mina may be a way to dip my feet into bespoke....... Mike
    I am gonna try to se her as I planned to travel Naples soon, I would like some shirts. The dutch guy, I agree to get the jacket collar more closed or taller for your next suit, and of course no windsor knots. and would shorten a bit the sleeves.
     
  12. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,019
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Paris & SF
    The coat appears to be quite a bit longer, no?

    Actually, no. [​IMG]

    Did you make the trousers a tad roomier on this one? They look great.

    They are - but just slightly. Thanks.

    [​IMG]

    Are those lapels 4" wide?


    Sorry, am still traveling and don't recall the width offhand.


    Interim observations of a bespoke novice

    Was flooded with PMs over the weekend, asking about mods made from prior commissions and what to "ask for" when meeting Mina. So this got me to thinking about how Mina and I have worked together, and I thought I'd share my thoughts. I imagine a number of the observations apply to bespoke in general terms, but as the majority of my commissions are from Mina let's keep it specific.

    At our first meeting last June, I did what presumably many of us do and wore what I felt to be my best-fitting coat: in this case, a MTM Borrelli. As mentioned by myself and others, Mina is an exceptional fitter. But often ignored is the fact that she is also ultimately responsible for the commercial success of NSM. So while she is uncompromising when it comes to fit and construction, she is understandably more flexible when it comes to aesthetics, inquiring about the new client's likes and dislikes. Her goal is to make us happy, after all.

    My conclusion is that the first coat serves the purpose to convince the client of NSM's superior fit and 100% handmade workmanship - while at the same time remaining fairly close to the client's existing aesthetic preferences. She can do anything you want, and she will do it very well, despite not being entirely "correct" or "elegant" in her mind; at the end of the day, if we come in with fixed ideas and are pleased with the results, who is she to complain? But the grand irony here is the amount of SF obsessive-compulsiveness with all things Neapolitan, married to a curious insistence by most of us on how a Neapolitan garment should look. Mina and Sr. Antonio have more than 60 years with Matuozzo, Rubinacci, Panico and Finamore, among others - how much more Napoletano can one get? And yet she receives styling cues from her American customers?? Che cazzo sta succedeno qui??!

    This thought struck me over the weekend as we discussed the fit and style of my PoW, which I referred to earlier as "whole-hog Napoletano." Mina expressed that she wanted this style for me from the very beginning, but that if she made this up as my first commission I would be unlikely to return, given that it's such a departure from the aesthetic to which I was used - or more precisely, the aesthetic which I believed to be the most flattering for me. So she guided me over time, making minor - almost unnoticeable - tweaks over various commissions until we arrived at a place which exceeded my expectations. To be honest, I never thought I could look that good in a suit. And doesn't that say it all?

    So why the stream of consciousness? Most of my PMs are from first-time NSM clients asking for advice, despite my professed novice status. So my advice, FWIW, would be this: trust Mina. Forget about the fit since she'll get you 95% of the way there on the first try. But don't micromanage her on the details. Allow her the freedom to create something which uniquely suits your body and the way you move. Allow her the opportunity to deliver a style which is genuinely Napoletano and not our misguided, bastardized interpretation - cuz why would you go to her otherwise? I don't regret my earlier commissions, since for odd coats and trousers I still enjoy the more fitted, grintoso (aggressive) sensibility. But I now have a second set of patterns for suits, where I prefer to be more understated and elegant. The silhouette and fit of my PoW is reminiscent of pre-war sensibilities, an era for which both Mina and Sr. Antonio feel a genuine passion and respect for tailored clothing.

    FWIW, I don't give Mina any specific guidance on lapel width, gorge, etc. (and to be honest, I'm glad I don't have to remember any of that shit). Regarding the details of this particular suit relative to my previous commissions:

    1) the coat is actually shorter; I didn't quite believe it, but Mina measured. There's some visual trickery afoot!
    2) shoulders extended a touch
    3) notch has come down perhaps 1cm
    4) lapels are WIDER! yep, read it and weep [​IMG]
    5) trouser waist sits about 3cm higher, almost to my natural waist
    6) trouser legs fuller by about 1cm

    I was surprised to learn about these mods, as they didn't quite reconcile with what I understood to be the role of these elements in relation to the whole. But it's difficult to argue with the overall result.

    Next on deck: a solid dark blue 3-piece with peak lapels in Dormeuil wool/mohair [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    36,647
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    This is getting slightly obnoxious.... whatever. Enjoy your true unbastardized pure napolitan abito.
     
  14. TRINI

    TRINI Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,025
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2006
    This is getting slightly obnoxious.... whatever. Enjoy your true unbastardized pure napolitan abito.

    Eh?
     
  15. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    36,647
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    Did you read that rant above and the whole "Mina knows better so keep your opinions for yourselves LOL americans ROFL" takeaway? My eyes rolled twice backwards (no, I don't know how to say this in Italian)
     
  16. TRINI

    TRINI Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,025
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2006
    Did you read that rant above and the whole "Mina knows better so keep your opinions for yourselves LOL americans ROFL" takeaway? My eyes rolled twice backwards.

    Nope. I read it more as a reinforcement in trusting the tailor and not trying to micromanage.
     
  17. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,503
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    medtech - Awesome report all around. It's write ups like these that make Style Forum a worthwhile place and valuable source of information. Keep it up! :^)
     
  18. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    Nope. I read it more as a reinforcement in trusting the tailor and not trying to micromanage.

    Greg: My intrepretation of medtech's post was the same as Trini's. I don't think medtech was trying to be condescending at all.

    By and large I agree with medtech. However, ultimately the client needs to decide for himself if the 'real' Napoli look is appropriate for his lifestyle. Personally for me, the shorter coat and tighter torso doesn't translate well for professional use, and thus, I've asked for those changes. That, however, shouldn't detract from the broader fact that Mina has a very good eye and one should trust her judgement on most fit / styling issues.
     
  19. apropos

    apropos Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,455
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    Did you read that rant above and the whole "Mina knows better so keep your opinions for yourselves LOL americans ROFL" takeaway? My eyes rolled twice backwards (no, I don't know how to say this in Italian)
    Damn GDL - WTF is up with you lately?

    It's like you can't stand it when others get (positive) attention, and you're always there ready to help out in the pummelling when others get (negative) attention. It's downright silly and really, quite childish.

    He actually contributes something significant to the forum, something which you haven't done in a while.

    Your 'contributions' in this thread are doubly worthless in the sense that they have the potential to drive away someone who actually contributes to SF on the whole, yet you bitch and moan at times about how SF used to be.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. apropos

    apropos Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,455
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    And FWIW, I agree with medtech - save the micromanaging for stylistically clueless cheap & cheerful Asian tailors.

    With people who actually have a defined house style - either let them work their magic, or move on if the cut isn't for you.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by