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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    Completely agree.
     
  2. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Beautiful jacket. The size and shape of the shawl collar is right on the money.

    Seeing this white dinner jacket topic reminded me that at my NY High School, all the men wore white, shawl dinner jackets for graduation. I see they have continued the tradition:

    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  3. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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  4. calypso

    calypso Senior member

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    does anyone know when they come to Sweden next time?
     
  5. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Senior member

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  6. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Was in Naples recently for final fittings on a few of these things - first the linen tux. I'm really happy with this one. The trousers fit great even without the suspenders with which they are meant to be worn:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The waist is nice and high, and the fit is roomy and relaxed through the seat and thighs, which is how I think evening trousers should look. Maybe all trousers, but definitely evening trousers.

    The pictures of the full suit came out kind of dark so I increased the exposure and contrast on this photo - the actual color of the fabric is more like what you see on the others:

    [​IMG]

    The proportions are also coming out a bit weird because it's taken from a low angle - the peaks are not that high. I actually asked for the peaks to be lower than the NsM standard in order to add to the relaxed vibe of the suit, and they came out nicely. You can see where the peaks hit a little better from this seated shot (same lighting edits as the other photo):

    [​IMG]

    Here's one shot from the back - it's about as clean as linen is going to be on me.

    [​IMG]

    Anyway, I was a little nervous when first starting this project because where the hell are you going to wear a linen tuxedo but since the first fitting, my enthusiasm has deepened and seeing it finished put to rest any of my fears about practicality. I left it with Mina in Naples because I was doing some traveling through Europe after leaving Naples, but since getting back to DC a week ago there have already been two times I would have worn it - met up with a friend for drinks at a nice rooftop bar one night, another night went to an evening performance of The Tempest. Of course I would have been the only one wearing a tuxedo either time, but I don't think I would have felt out of place at all. Or at least no more out of place than I typically do.

    The main advantage of a casual tuxedo like this one is that I don't feel shy at all wearing it without a tie. I asked Mina to make me a bowtie and cummerbund out of the facing material, but I think mostly I will just be wearing it with a white shirt, white pocket square, and Belgian loafers. My evening version of the classic and awesome maomao linen suit pic.

    I've got some pics from final fittings of moleskin trousers and fall SC too, will try and post those tomorrow.
     
    9 people like this.
  7. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    What about the double breasted shawl?
     
  8. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Did a second fitting for that one, but Mina wanted to check a couple of things on it before finishing - will do the final fitting this wknd in NYC and I will post pics after.
     
  9. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Interesting project. I'd thought that another not-too-formal black tie rig might be black woolen flannel. You could even mix that with black suede oxfords.
     
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  10. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ok, now the odd fall/winter stuff. The off-white moleskin pants have a nice line:

    [​IMG]

    The top block fits pretty well even though my hips are quite uneven.

    Here are the grey moleskin pants:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The crease falls nicely, the front is flat, pockets lie flush. So, win. I think they look really great with this jacket:

    [​IMG]

    Again the pictures suffer a little bit from being taken from a low angle - the gorge is on the high side, but it's not as high as it seems here. But I think the fit in the shoulders is very nice. Some of my other tailors tend to cut a slightly extended shoulder, and I like that look. Mina usually puts the sleeve right on the shoulder, which I like too, but is different. Her jackets are more trim and tidy rather than drapey. But it's not tight - you can see on this picture that the fronts come together easily when not buttoned and the vent doesn't fly open:

    [​IMG]

    You can also tell on that photo that the sleeve pitch is right on (with a waterfall shoulder to go with the spalla camicia, of course). And you can tell that the right side of the chest is cleaner on this jacket than the linen one - that's just due to the fabric I think. Linen, especially when you're not using a lot of construction in the chest, shows every flaw. I have a pretty low right shoulder, which, without padding, makes the right side of any jacket collapse a bit. That's more evident on the linen jacket than this wool one. Unfortunately it looks like we didn't take any pics that really allow you to see the overall silhouette, but you can get some sense of it from this seated pic:

    [​IMG]

    Anyway the chest is as I described the shoulders - it's roomy enough not to be tight, but the fit is clean rather than draped and abundant.

    This weekend we'll do a final fitting for the other dinner jacket that I got; I'll post pics some time next week.
     
    7 people like this.
  11. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Deets on off white moleskin?
     
  12. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Good question...IIRC it was H&S but I will ask Mina this wknd to be sure.
     
  13. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Pretty sure Unbel is Michael Buble now.
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2016
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  14. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Actually the only other time I've been told I look like that guy was in Naples. First time I had ever heard of him.
     
  15. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    My impression was always mid-life crisis Justin Timberlake
     
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  16. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
  17. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Exhibit A

    [​IMG]


    Same guy, same stubble, same linen tux looks like.

    Further damning proof: ever notice that unbel and Justin Timberlake are never in the same place at the same time?
     
  18. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    My surmises are that shortly after wrapping up shooting on a film, Justin Timberlake decamps to Naples, where he gets suits made and overindulges in pasta until becoming a little chubby. He whiles away the downtime by emerging on styleforum as his alter ego unbelragazzo. After returning stateside, he diets and goes on juice cleanses and prepares for his next film. At this time, unbelragazzo is mysteriously absent from the forvm, ostensibly because of "academic" duties at some unmentioned college. The ruse is complete.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Wore my linen tux out last night for dinner on the waterfront in DC and it felt great (Kennedy Center in the background).

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    11 people like this.
  20. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You louche bastard, you.
     
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