1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

    Messages:
    1,813
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong / Darien
    

    +10 - sadly, the same experience here. I love Mina and Dino - great, great people and I wish them the best. I have several garments from them (placed my first order in early 2011), but sadly, every item comes out a bit different than the last one. It is frustrating, and I hope they work out this issue.
     
  2. MrChris

    MrChris Senior member

    Messages:
    577
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2010
    Location:
    Sweden
    

    I've also used the set-up with garments shipped to me in between visits, gives you an opportunity to try them out before possible alterations are beeing made and it also shortens the lead times.
    I agree with your opinion about them beeing very friendly and flexible to come up with solutions to satisfy your needs.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2014
  3. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    5,780
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    At their best NsM shirts are very fine-- and have taught me a few things about fit that I've since come to ask from Ascot Chang. Also, before they switched tailors, their trousers were very good. Not genius-driven like Ambrosi, but effective and very well made.

    I think the biggest problem is that the cutters and makers aren't the one doing the trips. So while they take excellent notes, the odd video, etc., and care a lot about good results, at the end of the day it's a bit of a game of "telephone" with the workshop. Also, they do seem to slot in different makers. Whether there's a rotating roster or they just keep firing people is an open question, but after they put together a fairly successful shirt pattern for me, there was an unaccounted-for change. Not an intentional one, but the next batch did fit differently and had different-feeling collars. Getting back to something as effective as the old pattern took a few tries. It's actually better now in many ways, but I have yet to be convinced about consistency.

    Let's hope. I like them a lot and it's a good service to be offering.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2014
  4. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,589
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    

    Curious, what about your Ambrosi trousers do you like better than NSM's? Also curious about what you had changed on your Ascot Chang pattern, if you care to share.
     
  5. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    5,780
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    
    Ambrosi builds in a really remarkable taper toward the cuff that's hard to measure but easy to spot. It looks especially fantastic with loafers, without being wrong for lace-ups. NsM has slightly more cylindrical legs toward the bottom.
    Ambrosi really is a prodigy. My first pair try-on with him was something of a disaster. I'd asked for something about as loose as my SR-made trousers, but what he produced was too tight, too short, the pockets were in the wrong place, etc. He just looked at it while I was wearing it and said "OK." No chalk, no pins, no notes. And the final pair came out pretty much perfect without other alterations. Not his usual product, but very nice.
    This might be a good time to remind everyone that Mina not only travels regularly to several American cities, but charges a bit less than Ambrosi now costs.

    Nothing radical, but there is a higher collar than I would previously have asked for (and what a London maker was explicitly unwilling to attempt at all). Good thing, because my A&S jackets have collars so high that they were starting to bury my shirts from Dege and Lachter (and Charvet :(). Otherwise the NsM shirts have classic semi-spread collars that look nice with DB suits, as well as unbuttoned without collar stays.

    The NsM sleeves have a fantastic amount of length on the outer seam. It makes bending the elbow and moving the arm remarkably irrelevant to the cuff's placement on the wrist. At the outset I did have to ask repeatedly for more room (chest, shoulder blades, middle of arm, and so on). But what they ended up doing, while very different from a London shirt, has none of the stereotypical vices of the Italian model. I won't screw up my Ascot Chang pattern by asking for an exact copy, but I was able to improve their fit by getting pleats on the sides of the back, and 3/4" longer sleeves with tighter (but not Italian-tight) cuffs.
    (I'm reminded of my only order from Paris, where I asked for a bit more freedom of movement so I could, say, tie my shoes without having the cuffs wind up at my elbow. Atam refused, pointing out that his clients' jackets were so badly tailored that it was pointless to have a shirt sleeve behave properly. I misquote, but that's essentially what he said.)

    Also, extra-long tails with room for an extra button on the placket below the waistline made for a pleasant discovery. A schlong-high surprise, as it were. It keeps the shirts from trying to scoot over the waistband, and generally feels more substantial and luxurious. Just the weight of two extra inches of cotton or linen makes for a calmer day. I don't know if that is Mina and Dino's usual, or if they dreamed it up to keep the loose-shirt American happy. But for the moment, it feels nice and has improved the feel of the Ascot Chang product. Oddly, Charvet shirts never had to go quite that long to feel well-cut. But everyone's got a different angle on the problem.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2014
    4 people like this.
  6. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,589
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Thanks for that, Concordia. I've seen Ambrosi's trousers, but admit I haven't noticed anything special about the taper. I'll try to pay a bit more attention next time.

    I also like longer tails and higher collars on shirts. Kabbaz once mentioned the latter in some YouTube video. I think it's more of the extra button that the length allows, as he said that clients could see what a difference this makes by simply pinning one's own existing shirt below the last button.

    In any case, thanks for sharing.
     
  7. quar

    quar Senior member

    Messages:
    545
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2009
    Are you guys using NSM fabrics for shirts? Or bringing your own?
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2014
  8. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    5,780
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    
    So far, I've just used theirs. I don't think there's a huge discount for CMT, and they have some good selections (Sic Tess, Mason's better stuff, and a few others).
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2014
  9. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

    Messages:
    2,899
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009
    Has anyone else noticed a decrease in handwork on their shirts? My last batch were almost 100% machine made? Only the shoulders were attached by hand.
     
  10. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

    Messages:
    1,002
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2013
    

    And you paid for a real shirt but got a basic one?
     
  11. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

    Messages:
    2,899
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009
    

    Yes.
     
  12. imatlas

    imatlas Senior member

    Messages:
    8,518
    Joined:
    May 27, 2008
    Location:
    El Barrio
    Does NsM take payment up front, upon delivery, or half/half?
     
  13. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,057
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    

    I only have 1 shirt from NSM years ago, and it was 100% machine made other than for the handsew buttons. How did you get them to hand make it for you? I was never offered that option.
     
  14. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

    Messages:
    1,146
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    My NSM shirts have have hands stitched shoulder seems and armholes. Can't remember if collar is handstitched. The long seams aren't. There is a lot of hand-stitching on them.
     
  15. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

    Messages:
    2,899
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009
    

    +1. Shoudler seams, arm holes and collars on previous orders were handstitched. Not sure what has happened.
     
  16. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

    Messages:
    2,899
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009
    

    Generally half/half. If you have a good relationship with them they will allow payment on delivery for items not ordered during visits.
     
  17. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

    Messages:
    1,002
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2013
    
    .

    How much did you pay ? a machinemade cost 50-60 cmt plus fabric.
     
  18. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

    Messages:
    2,899
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009
    

    Honestly I am not certain. It's around $450 USD.
     
  19. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

    Messages:
    1,002
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2013
    Man, that is a scam. I would say her to do a huge discount for next buy if i ever would ever buy from such scammers or to reimbourse a lot for that shirt that cost 60 euros plus fabric. No joking.

    I am sorry they made on you a truffa napolitana, the classic neapolitan scam. I have suffered a lot before starting learning myself.
     
  20. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

    Messages:
    1,146
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    Scam is a strong word. I think there are a lot of places that cost as much or more for a shirt without hand sewing (charvet for example) but it's definitely surprising that they would produce a shirt without hand sewing when Mina seems to emphasize how important it is to quality. I've seen them cut corners on some other ways (crappy plastic buttons, crappy lining, sewing that isn't great) but this seems a little different given that the shirts were, at least for some at some point, hand sewn.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by