1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    5,780
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    Jeez-- I leave for 12 hours and I find 58 new posts.

    Which goes to prove that if there isn't enough work in a small town to keep a lawyer busy, there's usually enough for two.
     
    2 people like this.
  2. ethanm

    ethanm Senior member

    Messages:
    10,614
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Location:
    أرض العزم
    Am I the only one who finds it ridiculous that a bunch of people with a consumer's knowledge of tailoring are arguing very technical issues? Where is Despos or any number of real tailors here who actually know what they are talking about?
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  3. 9thsymph

    9thsymph Senior member

    Messages:
    369
    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2012
    Location:
    NYC
    ^

    Exactly. FWIW, in the Rubinacci thread Despos describes the NSM shoulders as a "style" not a flaw...
     
  4. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,382
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2011
    Location:
    Sartorial Wasteland
    I think Jeffrey agreed with Foo, hence the continued battle over the fate of shoulder expressions...
     
  5. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

    Messages:
    4,747
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2007
    

    I don't find it ridiculous at all. No tailor wants to go on record bad-mouthing another.
     
  6. ethanm

    ethanm Senior member

    Messages:
    10,614
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Location:
    أرض العزم
    Your second statement does not qualify your first. It is ridiculous that laypeople are having a tiff over technical issues. That no other tailor would bad mouth another doesn't make the laypeople any less silly. Unless you mean that it's not ridiculous AND no tailor would bad mouth the other.

    You've either put forth a non sequitur or not explained yourself. Nyamean?
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

    Messages:
    1,190
    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2009
    I think medtech should fly out to naples and get fitted for a suit just so this thread can get some pictures going again, although there many be some shoulder commentary which would cause this entire cycle to happen again, quite a conundrum.
     
  8. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,382
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2011
    Location:
    Sartorial Wasteland
    The only part of this ongoing discussion i don't care for is the "because it's ugly" statements as reasoning. I understand that it is pretty much an aesthetic issue we are talking about, but "ugly" is truly a relative term.

    I am more interested in what Mina and Dino have to say about it. It is interesting to learn that Mina and Dino are not tailors or cutters, but more design consultants. The fact that they use various tailors in Naples would be consistent with the different shoulder expressions received.

    When you go to NSM, do people ask for a specific shoulder expression? Or does NSM have a "house style" shoulder expression that people expect by default?
     
  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,795
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    

    Will all due respect to our resident tailor members, the forum was actually stronger before the conversation was dominated by their judgments. Why? Well, first of all, tailors all come from different traditions. Yet, each tends to have difficulty viewing different traditions as different and not simply wrong. Being human, they can also be biased and competitive. Second, anybody who actually needs a bespoke tailor's opinion can always ask his own bespoke tailor. Third, it is important to nurture your role as a diligent client. You should never dominate your tailor or micromanage him, but anybody with experience in bespoke will tell you that the best results come from an active dialogue. You need to learn how facilitate that dialogue.

    So, you see, "consumer's knowledge" can be quite powerful. I have more to learn from other experienced clients than from bespoke tailors other than my own. Consider that RJman has thumb-up'ed your post, yet he is himself a devoted master of wielding "consumer" knowledge, without possessing an inkling of professional expertise. Anything worthwhile he's ever added to conversation completely contradicts what you're saying here.


    You misread. Despos was speaking generally about pagoda shoulders. He wasn't commending whatever it is the NSM shoulders are.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2013
  10. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,155
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2009
    


    This might have been an error in translation, or she might have not have understood what i asked but when i asked her who made my pattern she said she did herself. Although i realize that this probably means that she "designed" it while a tailor actually "made" it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2013
  11. 9thsymph

    9thsymph Senior member

    Messages:
    369
    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2012
    Location:
    NYC
    No Foo, you misread. I never said despos commended the shoulder, but rather that he did categorize it as a intentional style, not a flaw.

    Quote (Despos) "Just saw the picture of the blue jacket and the concave shoulder you prefer. This is the default style shoulder Mina does, she would be your best bet."
     
  12. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,593
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    My understanding is that Mina took elements of Neapolitan style she liked and used it to create her own house style. She then hired tailors to execute the style she wanted for NSM. It's perhaps more correct to say that Mina designed the style while she has cutters and tailors execute it.

    Neither Mina nor Dino have ever claimed to be tailors. Mina has only said she grew up in the clothing industry, which is true. Whether you think it's useful that she's spent a good deal of time working for various RTW brands and tailors (though not as a tailor herself) is your call. But they've never misrepresented themselves.

    There are plenty of people who are not technically trained as tailors, but still run respectable bespoke houses. Mariano Rubinacci and Richard James most easily come to mind. But that doesn't mean these people aren't valuable. As people have often said of Mariano - much of what you're paying for when you're buying a Rubinacci suit is access to Mariano's style advice. I can't say first hand whether that's true, as I unfortunately don't own any custom Rubinacci garments, but I can say that I find Mina and Dino's style advice very helpful. Mina especially walks a nice line between being firm enough about how she thinks something should look, and being flexible enough to make sure the client is happy. I think that's quite useful.

    Of course, in a perfect world, your fitter, tailor, cutter, and style consultant would all be the same person. One fairly well respected Savile Row cutter I talked to said he thinks it's probably useful to have the cutter at the fitting, since the sales staff often won't know how what's the cause of some unusual problem (when it occurs anyway). However, for most things - unless the person is unusually shaped or the garment came out wrong - it can be fine to have the fitter and cutter be different people.

    I'm not experienced enough in bespoke to say whether it's important to have the cutter at the fitting. I imagine someone would need a lot of experience with different houses in order to be able to comment. But, I don't think it's obvious that there's any problem with Mina or Dino not technically being tailors. Many houses are run by non-tailors, and are successful because of the expert stylistic eye of who ever is running the shop. At the same time, I've seen work from cutter-run houses that, frankly, while technically impressive, is not something I would wear because the style doesn't appeal.

    Anyway, at all my overseas fittings, Dino usually has a tailor with him, though I don't know if he's my cutter (I don't believe he is, but I could be wrong).
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  13. chogall

    chogall Senior member

    Messages:
    6,564
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Is that the same guy that visited SF w/ Dino for the last two trips?
     
  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,335
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    I was laying in bed with my lady last night and took this pic of her shoulder. Is it weird that I thought of this thread during this intimate time? It looks that she might not be a good candidate for Mina.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

    Messages:
    2,877
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2010
    Pump the brakes, champ. Maybe sit the next play out.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013
  16. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,624
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    Yes.

    :foo:'s shirt burning antics have nothing on this level of dedication.
     
  17. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    15,841
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    

    FTFY. (Pedantry is still alive and well.)
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,335
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
  19. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    

    Depending on what he meant, he may get full points for the original spelling...
     
    3 people like this.
  20. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,335
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    This is the second time my asexualness has come up in this thread. Very strange.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by