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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Loathing

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Stay tuned for the interview I did with Liverano, his approach is that you should put yourself in his hands and just let him work.


I think that's the right approach. You should go to the tailor who offers the cut you like, and then let him do his thing. Much the same way you go to a Michelin-starred restaurant for the chef; you would have to have some balls to ask such a chef to change his recipe for you.

However, tailors who are good and affordable are so few and far between that, in practice, flexibility of Mina's sort is very welcome. It's one of those things where the praxis and the theory don't really line up.
 
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taxgenius

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I think that's the right approach. You should go to the tailor who offers the cut you like, and then let him do his thing. Much the same way you go to a Michelin-starred restaurant for the chef; you would have to have some balls to ask such a chef to change his recipe for you.

However, tailors who are good and affordable are so few and far between that, in practice, flexibility of Mina's sort is very welcome. It's one of those things where the praxis and the theory don't really line up.


I agree. Just go to the tailor whose cut you like and leave them alone to do their thing. Even if they accommodate a different style, the likelihood that you will happy with the result is slim.
 
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Cravate_Noire

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Or at least demand a bunch of free stuff. It's the SF way.


Demanding is too genteel. If you want to be a bawss, you've got to pillage.


All this talk of trusting a tailor is nonsense. Here's what you do--

As soon as you put the jacket on, before she starts the fitting, start ripping seams apart yourself. That (one) shows who's in charge and (two) allows you to more easily repin things (yourself, obviously) to how someone on the internet said they should be.

I really don't think you can go wrong with that approach. I'm 97% sure that's how the Duke of Windsor did it.


He kind of kicked the ball, whatever he did...

1000
 

Cantabrigian

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Stay tuned for the interview I did with Liverano, his approach is that you should put yourself in his hands and just let him work.


This just in...

A new study shows that people think they can do their job better than people who don't have their job.
 

Cravate_Noire

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Stay tuned for the interview I did with Liverano, his approach is that you should put yourself in his hands and just let him work.


This just in...

A new study shows that people think they can do their job better than people who don't have their job.


I heard about that different study that there are jobless people who did not think so, that's why they became jobless, but then they changed their mind and agree, until they have a job again.
 

Infrasonic

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This just in...

A new study shows that people think they can do their job better than people who don't have their job.


We need to professionalise the whole Tailor analysis process. Some metrics like volatility (Beta), spreads on lapel and cuff width, head and shoulders charts et al...
 

alliswell

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Cantabrigian

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We need to professionalise the whole Tailor analysis process. Some metrics like volatility (Beta), spreads on lapel and cuff width, head and shoulders charts et al...


All these PR-ish interviews with tailors have started to run together in my mind. They could be written by a robot - insert mildly amusing anecdote here, photo of a jacket on a mannequin there.

They're nice and I appreciate that it takes some effort to do. But you don't learn much through them.

IMO a knowledgeable offhand comparison by someone who has a good deal of experience - think itsstillmatt or T4phage or Malden - is probably worth every interview blog post in the world.
 
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Big A

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I'm going to repeat the oft-repeated comment that Mina & Dino will stand behind NSM's work. I've found them to be extremely accommodating.
 

jeff13007

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^^ This is true, you should not use NSM if you don't genereally like what they make. Mina does tend to impose her point of view and you have to insist on some things to get what you want(longer and fuller coat). My first batch of garments came out pretty nice, I would still like to get a slighly longer coat and fuller blades (in the back) for more comfort. That said, they are running a business, not UN. My fresco suit was tight in the back and needed to be let out in the waist but Dino talked me into taking it and wearing it to see how it would wear. I ended up using a local tailor to let it out in the waist and it was fine. So they will, at times, try to expedite the process and finish your garment as soon as possible but you can't blame them for this. Hauling all this crap back and forth is not easy.


+1 when i went in for my very first fitting they were still brining things back and forth in suit cases, not sure if they have changed this as their volume must be way higher than when i started going to them
 

Victor Elfo

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He does not post here anymore, but this should be shared with everyone that has interest on NSM.



Vox' NSM trousers, shirt and OJ in Carlo Barbera for H. Lesser 13oz jacketing with Alden blucher.



Vox's NSM trousers, shirt and OJ in Carlo Barbera for H. Lesser jacketing in 13oz, Crockett & Jones loafers in reverse calf.



Vox's NSM suit in T&L Golden Bale 13oz sharkskin (not sure on the cloth, though).

Many more can be found here: http://www.voxsartoria.com .
 

Eustace Tilley

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+1 when i went in for my very first fitting they were still brining things back and forth in suit cases, not sure if they have changed this as their volume must be way higher than when i started going to them

They're way beyond that now - they ship everything beforehand in carnets.
 

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