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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. 9thsymph

    9thsymph Senior member

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    I never said that the jacket I referenced was a Rubinacci, but rather that your relationship with Rubinacci is front and center and that even so, you still seem to find your way into ugly, ill fitting clothes (regardless of who made them)
     
  2. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    I think Foo's point was that he recognized the issue and sought to remedy it by finding a new tailor whereas people who notice the issue with NSM continue to use them. Its a valid point, but again, at that price point, it is hard to find a travelling neapolitan tailor who can execute a suit "correctly" as possible. I find Ercole's does a great job and can execute a neapolitan silhouette quite nicely with a lot of handwork, but obviously not as much as you would find in a garment made in naples, where skilled labor is sourced much easier and cheaper. I would say the overall theme is consistency, and by foo's argument NSM is not consistent with what it puts out, some garments are fantastic and some are less than stellar.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2013
  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thank you. Exactly.

    I think Ercole makes a pretty damned decent product. I prefer what I've seen from them versus NSM, by a significant margin.
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Are you really this dense?
     
  5. rob

    rob Senior member

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    "It’s said he is a true artist and will charge you a price befitting your character. If you are judged a truly dishonest man (the worst thing a man can be), Ambrosi will make you wait years before finally presenting you with the trouser he’s made, then let you touch and feel them, so that you are absolutely convinced a finer pair of trousers does not exist in the world and never could, before suddenly ripping them from your hands and cutting them to shreds with his monstrous, ancient shears right before your eyes. Ambrosi is no peddler of wares, no merchant of goods. He’s not interested in your money. He gives and takes exactly what you deserve. Ambrosi, you’ll hear, does not suffer fools.

     
    [/quote]

    I've chuckled at that post as well. Nicely highlighted.

    Rob
     
  6. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    My Ercole is quite different than NSM. The shoulders are more square and more padded giving me a more dramatic athletic silhouette. My newest NSM are rounder and more subdued.
     
  7. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    This is true by default of ercole's preferred style/cut, but he can do an unpadded unlined neapolitan hand felled stitches w/ chrome rims sport jacket, albeit at a higher price, and create a rounder silhouette if your prefer, I'm sure you already know this, just throwing it out there. I do think NSM made a lot of things that turned out fantastic. Its just a matter of consistency, and I get the point about that, which is why I have been using ercole's more often recently. English fluency plus spalla camicia is a wonderful thing, that and not having to wait as long, although RubiTuesdays will always hold a special place in my closet
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2013
  8. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    I might not like the way his Rubinacci suits look, but its pretty easy to see that they are well fitting even if the details don't appeal to me. And i think his point was that this isn't a detail that is shared across all jackets and seems to be a mistake in some of the jackets.

    P.S i just noticed it on mine as well. Thanks for that!
     
  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Btw I assume people realize this already, but you can see exactly what's in the chest of your NsM jacket:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is not a feature that is unique to NsM at all.
     
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How would I be able to tell for sure? I can't see that far in.
     
  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Then, no idea. Aren't there photos of works in progress?
     
  13. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Can't tell anything from that. Lapels aren't padded yet.
     
  15. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    [​IMG]



    Isn't PSG's jacket Napolisumisura's work? I think shoulders and chest look pretty damn good here.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2013
    2 people like this.
  16. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Honestly, can't tell much. Resolution too low.
     
  17. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    That jacket is NSM.

    i like pagoda shoulders but i am not refined enough to observe a minor padfuck shoulders.
     
  18. quar

    quar Senior member

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    Hard to tell when it isn't buttoned.

    I don't really like the NSM quarters. They look a little closed to me. Obviously that is just a styling preference.
     
  19. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    I think there are a lot of different variations on the shoulder for the Rubinacci's that I've seen but both of these look to me to display the same effect as the NSM shoulder.

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Leaves

    Leaves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Was fitted in Stockholm by NSM for the first time a few days back. By accident I ran in to several other SF members during this fitting, a very pleasant experience.

    I will report back on the progress later on, next fitting should be in a few months (seems NSM visits Stockholm about 3-4 times a year, does that sound right?).
     

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