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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Once again - very nice.
     
  2. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    There are several common personalities in Naples, and I think two are manifest in the typical clothes made there. One aims to rule Scampia, the other aims to pretend Naples is still a sort of kingdom...

    Indeed. Some Neapolitan MTM/bespoke shirts I have are from a small chain that is growing (well, not sure -- they have three or fours shops) in Italy, and under their name it says 'Reame di Napoli'. Which, by the way, is probably also a way of not admitting that they are not made in Naples proper, but probably in somewhere in the region.
     
  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Now you are just being argumentative.

    OF COURSE lapels, quarters etc. are significant to the design of the suit. The are among the primary things a person sees. They determine it's look. There is no engine inside.

    I think you are just flat wrong that no generalizations are possible. They are possible and (and others) have made them and they are accurate to what I can plainly see.

    Frankly an A&S style suit looks to my eye more substantially different from the rest of SR than one Neapolitan does from another.

    I don't know why you wouldn't go to Solito, who looks a hell of a lot Rubinacci to my eye. So does Panico.


    Well, regardless of our disagreement, I can assure you I'm not being argumenative. Neither the precise curvature of the lapels nor the openness of the quarters would ever make me pick one tailor over another. They're simply gravy.

    I wouldn't use Solito or Panico largely because I wouldn't want to deal with a Neapolitan tailor who doesn't have an organized infrastucture for servicing trans-Atlantic clients. While I disagree that Solito generally looks very similar to Rubinacci, I do like much of what I've seen them do. If they had a regular schedule I could count on, I'd strongly consider them if Rubinacci no longer satisfied me.
     
  4. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    It seems plausible that NSM have a range of styling, from the gimmicky to the reasonable. But they do seem to go for the 'look at my Neapolitan coat' thing.

    I also said above that it's fine for casual wear. And especially summer wear, which of course makes casual even more casual.

    And I know that thankfully you wouldn't replace your Steed staples with this stuff.

    Look, at the end of the day it may just be my residual Italian snobbery.


    Well, let's see what she makes for me. One big difference from many of the numbers posted so far is that it's a straight CBD fabric: dark blue birdseye milled for Huntsman. That might calm the eye.

    - B
     
  5. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, regardless of our disagreement, I can assure you I'm not being argumenative. Neither the precise curvature of the lapels nor the openness of the quarters would ever make me pick one tailor over another. They're simply gravy.

    I wouldn't use Solito or Panico largely because I wouldn't want to deal with a Neapolitan tailor who doesn't have an organized infrastucture for servicing trans-Atlantic clients. While I disagree that Solito generally looks very similar to Rubinacci, I do like much of what I've seen them do. If they had a regular schedule I could count on, I'd strongly consider them if Rubinacci no longer satisfied me.


    You told me my SB Solito looked "just like Rubinacci." [​IMG]
     
  6. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    I recon my Solito is more like your NSM than your Solito.

    My second-hand Solito is more like your Solito.


    - B
     
  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You told me my SB Solito looked "just like Rubinacci." [​IMG]

    Yes, but yours is not "Solito generally." As you've pointed out, Luigi would have cut you leaner jacket had you not asked him otherwise.
     
  8. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, but yours is not "Solito generally." As you've pointed out, Luigi would have cut you leaner jacket had you not asked him otherwise.

    Well, I asked for what the father (Gennaro) makes for himself and for M. Marinella, which I assume is the core house style.

    Perhaps they have a generational issue similar to the one at Rubinacci where daddy likes it the drape and junior likes it the dash. Kids these days.
     
  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, I asked for what the father (Gennaro) makes for himself and for M. Marinella, which I assume is the core house style.

    Perhaps they have a generational issue similar to the one at Rubinacci where daddy likes it the drape and junior likes it the dash. Kids these days.


    Entirely possible and very plausible. The kids and the granfathers in Naples couldn't express more different tastes in style--which I suppose is another way of making my point.
     
  10. brax

    brax Senior member

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    Been told the same thing about getting to Totonno's

    16th & Neptune
    Brooklyn NY


    There's also a Manhattan location. Chris, I recommend a side of St. Louis spare ribs as a side order.
     
  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, I asked for what the father (Gennaro) makes for himself and for M. Marinella, which I assume is the core house style.

    Perhaps they have a generational issue similar to the one at Rubinacci where daddy likes it the drape and junior likes it the dash. Kids these days.


    Entirely possible and very plausible. The kids and the granfathers in Naples couldn't express more different tastes in style--which I suppose is another way of making my point.

    The picture gets more clear.

    The sons get suits from Mina to have a youthful, lean cut with vigor. The fathers go Rubinaci for the generic, safe neapolitan look and the grandfathers go to Solito for the, I don't give a crap I want comfort and I want it loose fit

    There's also a Manhattan location. Chris, I recommend a side of St. Louis spare ribs as a side order.

    Good to know, looking forward to both.
     
  12. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Who goes to Panico?

    [​IMG]

    - B
     
  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Who goes to Panico?

    [​IMG]

    - B


    Loners and orphans
     
  14. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Who goes to Panico?

    [​IMG]

    - B

    T4 used to, I believe. In fact, I know he used to, but I have no idea if he still does. Panico's own suits are quite nice.
     
  15. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    T4 used to, I believe. In fact, I know he used to, but I have no idea if he still does. Panico's own suits are quite nice.

    Doesn't the senior Cappelli use him too?
     
  16. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Doesn't the senior Cappelli use him too?
    I only know one Cappelli (around 45 or so,) and his suits are from the late Formosa. Great looking stuff, IMO. Very proper. In fact, I think his personal style is as good as anybody's I have seen.
     
  17. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What is this thread about [​IMG]
     
  18. ljrcustom

    ljrcustom Senior member

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    What is this thread about [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    -LR
     
  19. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    What is this thread about [​IMG]

    Vox, Foo, Naples, and drape, i.e. what all of MC is about.
     
  20. kcc

    kcc Senior member

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    ...

    I don't know why you wouldn't go to Solito, who looks a hell of a lot Rubinacci to my eye. So does Panico.


    Panico's suits are weightless, lighter than LH's IMO.
     

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