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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    FTFY
     
  2. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    You've got to tell me where to find those women.
     
  3. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    I'll contribute to that pool.
     
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    New york. They are here.

    At the office christmas -oops!- "holiday" party the boss handed out these novelty gifts to everybody and there wasn't enough. I was the only one that didn't get something. Then somebody said, "we should all pitch in and get him some suspenders!" Everybody roared with laughter. Anyway, it is March and I still haven't received my suspenders.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2013
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  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm sure if Vox was here he would have a crisp $5 note to pitch in.
     
  6. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    That is some bullshit.
     
  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, I was late to the party probably from being on Style Forum.
     
  8. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I usually think of this as a good thing.
     
    3 people like this.
  9. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    My second conviction for violation and my third for manslaughter had to do with such a scenario.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  11. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    To come back to pagoda shoulders for a moment, if it's 'true' there's no convexity/(concavity if you want)..? That was quite the particular and deciding feature about it I thought (and that's what I was told by various tailors in Italy, Germany and UK (and the latter two always saying this style should be left to the Italians, although they did it right the last time in ca.1978 according to one :D...)).
    The curvature is even semantically included in the naming of that shoulder treatment (pagoda, insellata) if I am not mistaken, (except in German where the term I always heard to describe was just a reference to some of the technical requirements to construct it ).

    I have this picture of the back of mine (which is so-so to show what I mean), but I don't find picture of the front (this is not super traditional btw. as the Neapolitan dandy would wear it extremely tight, much tighter than non-insellata shoulders, to help emphasize the curvature effect, but that's quite uncomfortable. However, the, greater shoulder width makes it also more difficult to achieve that effect).

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2013
  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Too me that is too extreme. It reminds me of the power suits women would wear in the 80's.
     
  13. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    Cravate Noire - I think that shoulder looks fantastic. Who is the tailor?
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2013
  14. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Speaking of all this high-waisted business, I am having a bear of a time finding (quality) briefs that aren't cut to sit just barely over the hips. This is so unpleasant if your pants are 3 inches higher. Any suggested brands to look at?
     
  15. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    That is what it is about: eccentricity (it is obviously a very contoversial style/contrusction feature)... I will try to find historic pictures of how it was worn originally by the 'persone particolare' in Italy in the 30s and 40s (and then you have the UK revival in the 70s again of course, but these pictures are well known).

    I wore this suit 3 times btw. and even don't have it with me where I live now. I think of redoing something with a more 'traditional' Italian, (tight) pagoda shoulder.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2013
  16. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    A bit late to the game but as - as far as I know - the only one who has gotten down with both Mariano and Mina...

    The deltoid bump is less pronounced on a 'Nacci because they use more padding (i know, i know - it's not padding; it's wadding!!!1!!)


    The bump at the end of the shoulder and into the sleevehead is partially due to how the seam allowance is folded / stitched or at least that's my guess since the slope increases exactly where the seam allowance starts.

    My pet theory is that the slope will decrease with time. All NSMs Ive seen are newish (aside from Ed's and his don't have this as much) and haven't had time to settle. Also, Mina's not so gentle tugging on the sleeves seems aimed at bringing down the bump at the end (cue awkward pun).

    If people haven't moved on, I'm happy to post some potentially illustrative photos later.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2013
  17. forex

    forex Senior member

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    We will never move on, so please post your illustrations. I didn't know you used Rubinacci, was it a one off thing?
     
  18. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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  19. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    It's funny, if they weren't labeled, I'm not sure i could guess which is which in coolpapa's case

     
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  20. P-K-L

    P-K-L Senior member

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    Waiting for explanations with lots of red lines!
     

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