my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

[poorsod]



FWIW, one tailor mentioned to me that everyone of his clients that ordered a suit in mohair later regretted it due to the "itchiness." No first-hand experience myself.

Mohair is scratchy. After about 2 years, I'm getting used to it.

 

[jrd617]



Mohair is scratchy. After about 2 years, I'm getting used to it.

 

[F. Corbera]



What's your opinion on mohair blend wools vs fresco wools in the summer.

I don't have an opinion. I have but one mohair suit, in the H&S Crispaire mohair/wool blend. It's a bit more scratchy than Minnis Fresco, and it also has a bit of sheen. It's pretty good for a summer evening out.

I have a theoretical hankering for a Dormeuil Tonik. It's theoretical because the hankering is for the old Tonik or maybe the old Lesslan from Lesser.

 

[dopey]



What's your opinion on mohair blend wools vs fresco wools in the summer. I was under the impression that fresco was the best, but this Richard James interview recommends mohair blends:
http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/...yle-news-personal-style-fashion-richard-james

Both can have a bit of coarseness in the hand. Mohairs are blended with wool and a lot depends on the quality of the wool it is matched with. Some are very smooth, others less so. Mohair has a dressier finish and look and can have a natural luster to a high sheen. Fresco is more a matte finish. Fresco won't look as dressy as a mohair and mohair probably won't ever look as rustic (might be a better word for that but it escapes me at present) as fresco.
My favorite mohairs were fantastic shades of tan or pale green, sometimes with stripes, but I haven't seen those since the 80's. I keep a light weight navy mohair on hand for dressy summer occasions. One favorite of mine was the very darkest brown mohair, almost black, DB suit. It was great. The trouser split as mohair has been known to do. The fabric can crack when it gets dried out. Similar shade of the dark brown is available in Minis Fresco. Making two of them for clients now. One DB, one SB, both with triple patch pockets.
Have not worn fresco myself.

FWIW, one tailor mentioned to me that everyone of his clients that ordered a suit in mohair later regretted it due to the "itchiness." No first-hand experience myself.

Mohair is scratchy. After about 2 years, I'm getting used to it.

I don't have an opinion. I have but one mohair suit, in the H&S Crispaire mohair/wool blend. It's a bit more scratchy than Minnis Fresco, and it also has a bit of sheen. It's pretty good for a summer evening out.
I have a theoretical hankering for a Dormeuil Tonik. It's theoretical because the hankering is for the old Tonik or maybe the old Lesslan from Lesser.

I haveone suit from the Lesslon book. It is not scratchy at all, though a bit stiffer than plain wool, with a nice, deep sheen. There was only one pattern I liked in the stock I saw available, but if you have access to a length in a pattern you like, grab it - it is a really spectacular cloth. Harrison's Cape Kid is feather light, with a nice, slick, polished sheen and some uneveness, like Dupioni silk (though much less). I recommend that highly for summer, though it is not inexpensive. I have one suit in Huntsman's Midnight Blue Hammick Mohair, which is a bit heavier weight and a barathea/hopsack weave. I get a lot of use out of it and liked it enough that I ordered another in the navy version. It also has a mohair sheen, but it is very slight and not nearly as slick looking.

 

[Despos]

Not all mohairs itch. It would be unfair to categorize them all as itchy. Some are quite smooth. Difference to me is Fresco is coarse but due to the finishing and weaving. Mohair is crisp due to the nature of the fiber. Mohair s an acquired taste and available in many finishes, weights and textures. Scabal had a nice mohair, linen and silk a few years ago. Looked like dupioni with mohair.

 

[terrorsquad]

You should have a look at the extra fine mohair available in the Mohair book by Drapers.It's amazingly soft and smooth for mohair.I thought it was at least a Super 130 when I handled it before I realized it was mohair.If I'm not mistaken, the mohair content was between 20-40 percent.

 

[Cravate_Noire]



You should have a look at the extra fine mohair available in the Mohair book by Drapers.It's amazingly soft and smooth for mohair.I thought it was at least a Super 130 when I handled it before I realized it was mohair.If I'm not mistaken, the mohair content was between 20-40 percent.

Drapers' mohairs and the mohair blends in the new Flamingo Bay bunch by Scabal (wool/mohiar 60/40 and mohair/silk 80(!)/20 ) are my favourites, the silk blend from Scabal feels less itchy to me than the wool blend but it's a bit stiff.

 

[F. Corbera]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I haveone suit from the Lesslon book. It is not scratchy at all, though a bit stiffer than plain wool, with a nice, deep sheen. There was only one pattern I liked in the stock I saw available, but if you have access to a length in a pattern you like, grab it - it is a really spectacular cloth. Harrison's Cape Kid is feather light, with a nice, slick, polished sheen and some uneveness, like Dupioni silk (though much less). I recommend that highly for summer, though it is not inexpensive. I have one suit in Huntsman's Midnight Blue Hammick Mohair, which is a bit heavier weight and a barathea/hopsack weave. I get a lot of use out of it and liked it enough that I ordered another in the navy version. It also has a mohair sheen, but it is very slight and not nearly as slick looking.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Not all mohairs itch. It would be unfair to categorize them all as itchy. Some are quite smooth. Difference to me is Fresco is coarse but due to the finishing and weaving. Mohair is crisp due to the nature of the fiber. Mohair s an acquired taste and available in many finishes, weights and textures. Scabal had a nice mohair, linen and silk a few years ago. Looked like dupioni with mohair.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

You should have a look at the extra fine mohair available in the Mohair book by Drapers.It's amazingly soft and smooth for mohair.I thought it was at least a Super 130 when I handled it before I realized it was mohair.If I'm not mistaken, the mohair content was between 20-40 percent.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Drapers' mohairs and the mohair blends in the new Flamingo Bay bunch by Scabal (wool/mohiar 60/40 and mohair/silk 80(!)/20 ) are my favourites, the silk blend from Scabal feels less itchy to me than the wool blend but it's a bit stiff.

All: thank you.

Have any of you made/gotten something in one of the high-percentage mohairs from Halstead?

I vaguely recall an old LL thread in which Michael Alden described a conversation with one of the Lessers that they had discontinued the LessLan both because of lower demand and their feeling that the overall quality of mohair had fallen considerably compared to the past.

One of the suits from this batch of NSM's that was ready on this trip is in a 13oz T&L Golden Bale sharkskin, and its qualities seem similar to a what I've seen in smooth, heavy mohairs. I like it.

 

[poorsod]



MoP buttons, hand-embroidered buttonholes, and very neatly hand-felled waistband.

(This image clickable for large closeup if you wish.)

I am surprised by your patience given your proclivity for a martini or three.

 

[F. Corbera]



I am surprised by your patience given your proclivity for a martini or three.

I avoid drinking water.

 

[TRINI]



as dressy as a mohair and mohair probably won't ever look as rustic (might be a better word for that but it escapes me at present) as fresco.

'Laconic' ?

 

[yywwyy]



I avoid drinking water.

 

[F. Corbera]



'Laconic' ?

 

[imatlas]

'Laconic' ?

I thought NYR taught English

 

[gomestar]

are suits still about $2K each? I haven't checked in a few years (this coincides with the last time Solito was in town).