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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    On the shoulder thing, since there's not very much structure inside the jacket, how it looks on you is going to depend on your shoulder shape and how you're standing at the time. Sometimes I think it looks awkward, sometimes I think it looks better than the smoother shoulder lines such as on the Rubi jackets above. When it works well, it's a stronger and more dynamic shoulder line that looks less "sack-like" than your typical unstructured jacket. Here's what I would think of as "good examples" (apologies like always for the pictures of me, for those of you who hate it when I post a picture of myself to illustrate a point):

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It is definitely a distinctive feature.
     
  2. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    My "strategy" for Solito is very simple. If he comes back, I will get more stuff. If I go back to Naples, I will get more stuff. If not, I won't. Either way, I will enjoy what I have.

    I have no pressing need for more stuff anyway. I can use the English for 3 piece (probably getting my last one of these for a long time right now), overcoats (I could perhaps use one more), A&S style DBs (can think of maybe two more that interest me), and tweeds (I want a Russell plaid). I have several worsteds that I would really like Solito to do and if I ever get really itchy for them, I will just send the cloth ahead and make the trek to Naples myself. Not at that point yet.
     
  3. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That white DB looks a little "blockish" to me. Definitely too short, something I rarely say.
     
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I feel like a lot of Mina's stuff looks a bit too "columnar".
     
  5. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Also, I don't know if Lucca has naturally square shoulders or if that is padding (referring to the blue coat), but I much prefer Mariano's shoulder line.

    As it happens, I am wearing my (one) NSM today. Pants are pretty close to perfect. Coat is wearable but could be improved. I still think it is too tight and pulls at the waist button. The collar is a bit low on the shirt. The gorge is crazy high. And, most important, the jacket gives me that funny feeling that it is trying to crawl up my back and get away.
     
  6. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  7. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    That sums up my NSM as well.
     
  8. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    But it varies from coat to coat on the same person. That is what I find frustrating. I really like the pagoda shoulder and would prefer it on all my NSM jackets. Unfortunately, some have it and some don't. And that isn't the result of any request that I've made. It is just the way things shook out.
     
  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have variance from coat to coat as well - but for me the changes are mostly in the tightness of the body rather than the shoulders. I'm sure some of this is due to gaining a few pounds over time, a different mood on different fitting days, etc., but I would guess some of it also has to do with different tailors cutting my jackets. I've never asked, but I doubt the same person cut all my jackets.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013
  10. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    Yes, that is my assumption as well. Different tailors with different results. In any event, it is frustrating enough that I'm going to try someone new for jackets.
     
  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Have you asked Mina about it specifically? If you say, I want it to look like these ones, not like these ones, and ask for the person that made the ones you like, you might get something more consistent. I don't have enough experience with different tailoring houses to know how the consistency of NsM compares to others, but certainly all the larger houses employ multiple cutters.
     
  12. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is possible to ask for the same tailor for consistency sake?

    Mariano went out of his way to ensure me that the guy cutting my coat today has been the guy cutting it since day one and I cannot argue with the results. I made the mistake of pushing ahead with an order even though my guy was away on holiday leave. The suit is wearable but my least favorite.
     
  13. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    NsM has grown extremely fast, so it might be impossible to have everyone stick with the same guy, but you could at least ask and I'm sure they'd try to do it.
     
  14. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    I've asked about the cause (response was "different fabric") but I haven't expressed any desire for anything different. The tailoring houses that I've used have a greater degree of consistency on the whole. The same people should be doing the same things each time. The shoulder is an example but I could point out a series of other variances in the NSM product (none of which are good/bad on their own - just different).
     
  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The different fabric is definitely a possibility. Not necessarily that it would be impossible to get a final effect in one fabric that's similar to another, but Mina will have different fabrics cut differently to accommodate the degree to which they stretch, wrinkle, or whatever.
     
  16. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    She's changed providers several times over the last two years, which accounts for the inconsistencies as well as some of the differences in styling details. My first jacket, made by Volpe, was great, subsequent commissions have been variable. The pants however, are uniformly excellent.
     
  17. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Quote:She hasn't used Volpe since 2009 - everything has been in-house since then. My coats have been inconsistent as well, but uniformly good, so I've never had cause to complain. The trousers are always top-notch.
     
  18. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    The trousers are most probably outsourced as there is no way that they will have enough volumes to have an employed trousermaker.
     
  19. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Do you know this to be the case? I've heard Mina refer to her trousermakers a number of times. As well as mentioning considering moving them to her new location along with some of the jacket makers. I'm pretty sure they are done in house.
     
  20. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    ^ The trousermakers are in-house as well, and she explictly mentioned how they had to move to a new location outside the city given space constraints.
     

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