1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    The way I read it they are using the term the way Jefferyd and I do. They are saying it gives the cloth a "hardness" and that makes it less desirable to work with IMO. The dry hand is the problem I have with Lesser

     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2013
  2. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    

    IMO, that cloth is for disco singers.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2013
  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006

    Rat Pack approved
     
  4. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    So, I recall these two memes from literature. One was that shiny suits are low class, gangster, gigolo, etc. Think Michael Coreleone in Tahoe. Shiny=flashy. Possibly expensive, but low taste.

    The second, which is a bit older, is that shiny=cheap. An old worn out suit shines as it ages, especially at the elbows, knees, and seat of pants. It was considered, as long ago as in Victorian novels, as the sign of someone who bought cheap clothes in the first place and then tried to get too many years out of them.

    Make of that what you will.

    OTOH, Sherlock Holmes at one point cites re-soling boots as a sign of poverty whereas I think it's just good sense.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. etkl

    etkl Senior member

    Messages:
    220
    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    

    I believe the original Dormeuil Tonik was 90% mohair. Halstead makes 100% mohair cloth that I have seen. I also picked up 100% mohair jacketing from Tip Top that is not particularly shiny.
     
  6. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    The Tonik (from what I've seen) doesn't have the bright new shine like in the Cape Kid, and looks like very good stuff.

    I've no idea, however, whether it's the content of Mohair that influences how shiny the cloth looks.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2013
  7. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    The old Tonik that I remember was indeed 90% mohair, very stiff and shiny. It was beautiful in its way but I don't think I would have liked the way it wore. Also, it had a very summery look but was way too heavy to wear in summer.
     
  8. etkl

    etkl Senior member

    Messages:
    220
    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    

    I've always regarded these as tests for body or guts, irrespective of hand, which I associate with finish. I've also found Lesser cloth to have the most guts across their product line of any merchant. Lesser doesn't go beyond 150's and, in the main, its cloth is made of yarn less than 100's. So it stands to reason that its finish of its cloth is not usually as smooth or slick as cloth from other merchants who focus on the supers. Having said that, Lessers Golden Bale and 150's are "wetter" but still have a lot of body.
     
  9. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,057
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    The second from the left is my Tonik mohair. It doesn't look that shiny to me.

     
    2 people like this.
  10. etkl

    etkl Senior member

    Messages:
    220
    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    

    I have several pieces of the old Tonik and the shininess varies from piece to piece. One of them id dark gray and has a matte finish. Another is a gray-silver glen plaid and it looks and feels like armor. Go figure.
     
  11. etkl

    etkl Senior member

    Messages:
    220
    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    

    This surpises me for two reasons. I didn't think that Dormeuil made 90% mohair Tonik any more and the examples of that cloth that I have seen weighed much more rthan 10 ozs. Is this something you purchased recently? Do you know if Dormeuil still sells it?
     
  12. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,057
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    I got it 2-3 years ago. It should still be available. Check the book.
     
  13. etkl

    etkl Senior member

    Messages:
    220
    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    

    I just checked the Dormeuil site and lo and behold they apparently still offer 90% mohair Tonik in black and navy and both weigh 300 gms. How do you like the cloth?
     
  14. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,057
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    The richness of the multi-tone blue Tonik is unmatched. It is similar to the Minnis 0520 but has a richer color. There are more shades in the book than listed on the site. You need to look at the book in real life. I think mine is the 191004. It is tough scratchy cloth.

    This is ethandesu's version of the same cloth as mine (I believe) . . .

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2013
  15. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    

    Love the look of the cloth in that photo.
     
  16. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    

    So, this is probably 191004 from the Tonik book? What's the general price of this range of Toniks these days?
     
  17. Hampton

    Hampton Senior member

    Messages:
    5,398
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2012
    + 1
     
  18. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2013
  19. MrChris

    MrChris Senior member

    Messages:
    577
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2010
    Location:
    Sweden
    Collar do look nice. With regards to the fit issue, was it your shirt from NSM?
    I'm awaiting my first shirt from NSM, will be interesting to see about the result.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2013
  20. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,624
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    That collar looks fantastic...
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by