my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

[Manton]

island blood gives you the smooth skin, eh?

 

[F. Corbera]



island blood gives you the smooth skin, eh?

Chocolate brown eyes and a taste for cannibalism, too.

Many here might ascribe higher Neanderthal DNA to me if they were to see me eat asparagus, but you would know that they would be wrong.

 

[Despos]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Would you kindly stop with the stylistic deviations from the SF norm and maintain some adherence to imposed SF expectations of your clothing style. i.e. abstract pocket shapes and edge stitching...and is that shirring I see along the back yoke?

It's causing a disruption of balance in the sartoriasphere.

 

[Despos]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

If anyone is still interested. My father was a tailor for Society Brand in Chicago and these are patch pocket patterns they used in the 40"s and 50's. They are a bit similar to Corbera's breast patch. When the factory closed, all the patterns seemed to disappear and magically reappear at tailors workshops. I have their block patterns too.

Did you make anything using those patterns?

Have not, but working on a couple interesting patterned cloths, maybe will give it a try.

 

[F. Corbera]



Would you kindly stop with the stylistic deviations from the SF norm and maintain some adherence to imposed SF expectations of your clothing style. i.e. abstract pocket shapes and edge stitching...and is that shirring I see along the back yoke?

Yep, all my shirts from NSM so far are shirred at the yoke..I forget what the Italians call it.

Foo had extensive worshipful coverage of such shirring back in the pre 4x1 days, when he had normal sized eyeglasses and gloves with complete fingers.

It's causing a disruption of balance in the sartoriasphere.

I'm wearing a bow tie today.

 

[A Y]

I specify edge stitching too. Only two recent shirts have used the quarter stitching thing. Isn't the old reason for not liking edge stitching because it was hard to do well?

 

[F. Corbera]

I prefer the edge stitching on these particular camp collar shirts, but for reasons I can't explain well, I wouldn't get it in any other case.

Do you remember Kabbaz's old sequence of photos on AAAC in which he argues for the superiority of edge stitching aesthetically and functionally? The thing that I remember most are the neckties on those shirts...yikes!

 

[Manton]

The reason is, because you know it would be guido. On an italian-collar shirt meant to be worn open to the navel in Tahiti, I agree it's fine, maybe even preferable.

 

[dopey]



It's a collo Capri (and thanks for the suggestion, Jan.) It can't be worn with a necktie, as you can see.
Given how the collar, band and French placket are all one piece, edge stitching strikes me as the most appropriate...to my eye, at least, it would look messier with a inset stitch on the collar with no place to go since there is no band to terminate the inset line cleanly. The edge stitching, in contrast, just continues from collar to band to placket with no interruption.
I hope that makes sense.
It's a summer or beach-y getaway shirt.

Dege did some shirts like this for me. Since they are English, they called them Lido collars. I can't recall whether or not they were edge stitched.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

My father calls that look the "Italian Tuxedo".

He can say that because he's a tuxedo.

 

[A Y]



The reason is, because you know it would be guido. On an italian-collar shirt meant to be worn open to the navel in Tahiti, I agree it's fine, maybe even preferable.

What if we were wearing it with a tie to be ironic? Speaking of irony, it's interesting that visible topstitching on a coat is considered bad taste, but on a shirt, it's the reverse.

 

[F. Corbera]



On an italian-collar shirt meant to be worn open to the navel in Tahiti, I agree it's fine, maybe even preferable.

Since we've determined that my chest is smooth, let me add that I have an innie.

Dege did some shirts like this for me. Since they are English, they called them Lido collars. I can't recall whether or not they were edge stitched.

That's very E. M. Forster of Dege. I approve.

 

[Manton]

I think wearing a tie with a shirt with no collarband would look really bad.

"visible topstitching on a coat is considered bad taste": it is?

 

[A Y]



I think wearing a tie with a shirt with no collarband would look really bad.
"visible topstitching on a coat is considered bad taste": it is?

Isn't it? Subtle is good, but the kind that stands out? Anyway, for the tie, I was thinking of a regular shirt collar, not the sport/Capri collar.

 

[Manton]

I love the top stitch on sport coats and overcoats and informal suits (linen).