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My "Unlined" Suit

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Hey guys. I have a newer bespoke tailor that I tried out in Asia that hasn't been discussed on this forum. Before I name names, I wanted to give people a chance to critique this suit jacket. The tailor has also offered to make some further adjustments when I return. They were not ready in time for the (measurements were done, 1st basted fitting was done ) 2nd fitting date they set, so they had to do the 2nd fitting today and furn around adjustments same day.

The commission was for an unlined blazer for a guy that's always hot. What I got was a what appears to be a quarter or half lined jacket. This is my first "unlined " commission so let me know what you think or what should be adjusted.

Ignore the pants. They are not part of this, they are just a similar color and mass of similar hopsack fabric.


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ter1413

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Too short. Too snug in the back.
 

ter1413

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Did you get measured wearing a proper shirt or did you have on a tee shirt/polo?
 

dauster

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sorry looks pretty terrible. How is the back so snug but the front so loose? what happened to the arm sleeves?
 
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sorry looks pretty terrible. How is the back so snug but the front so loose? what happened to the arm sleeves?
The back is uncomfortable and the front feels loose.

Is this even fixable? They had to shrink it down after the 2nd fitting? Tailor said they would adjust it when I get back to town.

I'll take another picture with the sleeves but I think they just bunched up on the dress shirt. Is this a normal problem with unlined ?
 

dauster

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The back is uncomfortable and the front feels loose.

Is this even fixable? They had to shrink it down after the 2nd fitting? Tailor said they would adjust it when I get back to town.

I'll take another picture with the sleeves but I think they just bunched up on the dress shirt. Is this a normal problem with unlined ?
Not an expert or a tailor and maybe it can be saved but I would ask for a remake... Frankly, how did you walk out of the store and did not start complaining immediately when they presented it to you?
 
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Not an expert or a tailor and maybe it can be saved but I would ask for a remake... Frankly, how did you walk out of the store and did not start complaining immediately when they presented it to you?
I did start complaining on the spot. The problem was I had to walk out and head to airport.
 

ter1413

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That’s why when using a new “tailor”, you should be available for 4 fittings after the measurements.

Also, wear a proper shirt and shoes when getting measured. You had on a polo ****. How could a new tailor estimate how long the jacket sleeves should be? Etc.

I would also ask for a remake.
 
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That’s why when using a new “tailor”, you should be available for 4 fittings after the measurements.

Also, wear a proper shirt and shoes when getting measured. You had on a polo ****. How could a new tailor estimate how long the jacket sleeves should be? Etc.

I would also ask for a remake.
I am aware. I allowed them time for 4 fittings, but they missed the intital 2nd fitting. This in and of itself was unacceptable. It would have given them 10 more days to correct it before a third fitting, but the day before I was scheduled to go back there they canceled it. Never had a tailor cancel an appointment before. I'm aware bespoke takes time and many fittings, but I booked a flight a day after the 2nd fitting was scheduled so I couldn't change it.

Measurments was in a polo. 1st, 2nd reschedule fitting and 3rd in dress shirt. So there was time to correct that.

The whole thing seemed rushed. They were complaining that they had just received an order for 25 suits for a wedding the day I commissioned this. I probably should have canceled and said I'd wait until your not busy.
 

dieworkwear

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I assume you can let the body out, but the length is so short, I'm not sure you can adjust that to get what you'd need.

Unfortunately, if this is bespoke and there were multiple fittings, getting the length right is also part of the customer's job. I assume they asked you to approve of the length, in which case you may be stuck.

Personally would not consider the front loose.
 

dieworkwear

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I allowed them time for 4 fittings

The number of fittings doesn't really matter, tbh. With the exception of a tan gab suit, which was made from a very lightweight cloth, I've never had four fittings on anything. Two tailors I've used skipped to the forward fitting.

The ways guys can avoid outcomes like this are 1) be wary of budget tailors, 2) don't go into a tailor's workshop without having admired the work on someone else, and 3) don't go in with a bunch of demands (e.g. "I want four fittings," "do things this way," and "go slimmer and shorter"). A lot of the bad outcomes I see are because someone tried to use a budget tailor and/ or went in and tried to tell the tailor to make something other than their house cut.
 

norMD

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I think the front of the jacket looks ok, while the back is way to thight. Maybe they can remake just the back panel?

You appear to have a dropped left shoulder and maybe a bit scoliosis. Adding some padding should make it easier for the tailor to even this out.

That leaves the length of the jacket which might not be salvageable.
 

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