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My taste exceeds my budget, but I need a good fit

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by ericjungle, Feb 15, 2017.

  1. ericjungle

    ericjungle New Member

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    I'm 30, and I live in Seattle. My total wardrobe (casual and formal) is small, but what clothes I have do fit nicely, except my dress shirts.

    I have odd measurements. I'm 6'3" and 175lbs, mostly muscle at 18" neck, 33.5" sleeve, 15" arms, 42" chest, 33" waist, 33" inseam. I'm tall and thin with a long torso, and it makes buying clothes a pain. I'm sure many people can relate.

    I would love to walk down to Gian DeCaro in Seattle and pony up 2k for a bespoke suit. Unfortunately, that's nearly a half-month's salary for me, so I'm aiming for MTM or properly tailored apparel.

    I'm interested in hearing other people's experiences and/or advice regarding finding tailored clothing in Seattle, specifically button-ups. Ideally, I'd like to find a shop that'll keep it under $100 per shirt while actually fitting me.

    I'd prefer to avoid chains like Men's Warehouse, Jos A Bank, Brooks Brothers, etc. unless people have had good experiences locally?

    I've looked into online shops like Ratio Clothing and Modern Tailor, but I'm skeptical of buying online without an in-person fitting or shirts/fabrics/colors I can inspect physically.

    Niche shops or independent tailors in the area would be of particular interest to me, but I don't know the area well enough to have a clue how to find them.

    Any and all comments/suggestions welcome, and thank you :)

    Eric
     


  2. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    You're asking for a bespoke shirt if you want in person fittings. Unfortunately, there is about a 0% chance of finding a tailor that offers that kind of service for under $100...even for the cheapest of fabrics. Just being honest....sorry, man.

    There are online MTM operations where you can order swatches to check out fabrics before you order. If you go in knowing it will likely take a few shirts to dial in your fit, there is a decent chance you have a happy outcome...depending on the company you chose. Check out our Proper Cloth and Luxire threads in the Classic Menswear forum. Plenty of happy customers in there, myself included.
     


  3. omgerald

    omgerald Member

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    Yeah, unfortunately there aren't many tailors (or any) that will do a custom shirt for under $100. Maybe in Hong Kong? But I digress.

    What I might suggest as an alternative to MTM and Bespoke is trying your hand at off-the-rack buttoned shirts and then getting them tailored. I know you had mentioned that you'd rather not do chains, but maybe this can get you closer to what you want. For instance, you could go shopping at J. Crew or Brooks Brothers. You might even want to find a 'Tall' section or 'Tall' fit since you're 6'3". I know J. Crew does carry tall sizes. Find a shirt that fits you somewhat decently and then get it tailored.

    Make sure that the shoulders and chest fit you, though. A tailor can't really do anything with the chest or shoulders unless you want to give them a headache while paying them a ton of money to do so. And, since you're a taller guy, make sure the sleeves are long enough. It's better to have a garment that's too big than too small.

    From there, you can adjust certain areas. Sleeves can be shortened and slimmed as can the body. Maybe, once you've found a shirt and had it tailored to a point that you like, you can at least start to build that relationship with a tailor to the point where they know what you like.

    I suppose the downside to this other than 1) going to a chain store, and 2) taking two steps to go to a store and then a tailor, is that you'd have to buy a cheaper shirt in order to account for the cost of alterations if you want to keep the shirts under $100. Depending on the alterations that need to take place, it could get more expensive than what you're hoping to pay.

    Long-winded, but I hope that helps!
     


  4. ericjungle

    ericjungle New Member

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    I appreciate your guys' responses. Very informative, especially the bits about what tailors can/can't easily do (didn't know that about the shoulders/chest fit). I also got a private message from an associate at Deo Veritas, so I may take a gander at online MTM after all, at least to give it a shot. I'll check out Proper Cloth and a few others while I'm at it (I think ratio clothing looked like a decent one as well).

    I'll update this post after a few weeks or so with some results. Thanks fellas.
     


  5. maxalex

    maxalex Senior member

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    Proper Cloth has very good online tutorials on measuring yourself, and the first shirt will be remade for free if it doesn't fit right. They are also very helpful over the phone, and no hassles at all if you demand the remake. I actually did that, as did both my sons, and all three of us continue as good customers.

    I buy bespoke suits and jackets in Italy but can't see spending $250+ on a bespoke shirt when the PC shirts fit so well. Could the armholes be higher? Yes, but then you're getting into bespoke fit, and again I don't see it being worth twice the price. When in Rome (or Naples), I'd rather spend my money on wine, food and linen suits.
     


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