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My tailoring adventure - part 5

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Matt, May 3, 2005.

  1. Matt

    Matt [email protected]

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    Well hope this isnt getting boring for you all, but for those of you still awake, I can report that we are definitely getting there.... Chuong dropped this off this afternoon, and it's on its way, he has probably skipped a little further ahead than I would have liked him to. I personally suspect he never wants to see it again, but he's not getting off that easily. The major issues from the previous fitting have been somewhat addressed, needing some further adjustment to satisfaction from here. Pants are still a little long, back balance still out of whack. Seems to have sorted out the issue at the front, which was my major concern from the previous fitting. Anyhow, as Ive said, this one is a learning experience for the next two, and I think he's doing OK. To the pics... [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] I think he has basically got the front balance ok, taken care of the front drop shoulder issue Darren highlighted in his post on AA from an earlier thread. However, the right rear shoulder looks to me as though it is bigger than the left - the major remaining issue as I see it. Im a little concerned that it doesnt appear to be falling straight - see here how (in both front and back) the vertical center of the jacket seems to be twisting itself to the left on the front view, right on the rear view. Is this because it is overcompensating for the mess at the right rear shoulder, throwing the balance off all round? [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] What do you guys think of the sleeves? ok or a little too short? Have Photoshopped the sleeve pic to highlight the pattern matching - so the color is distorted. Compared to a few others in my closet and I think he has done OK, pretty well considering the fact this has been pulled to bits a few times now after. Sleeve buttons are too far apart here, not much I can do about that other than warn him for next time. Price I pay for being the first person to ever ask him for it I suppose. I can live with it. [​IMG][​IMG] Anyhow, I suspect (hope.) this is the second to last post in this series, so thank you all again for your assistance, and look forward to whatever suggestions you can offer at this stage. I take off for Hanoi tomorrow morning and will be up there for the rest of the week, so I wont be able to give this back to him until Saturday at best, so seems like I am about a week, 10 days away from delivery. Matt
     


  2. johnapril

    johnapril Distinguished Member

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    That is such pretty fabric. Too bad it was placed in the hands of such a brute. Have you revealed the source of that fabric already? Nice.
     


  3. Matt

    Matt [email protected]

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    Hi

    This cloth was purchased on eBay from a seller called how6955 in Leeds.

    I believe it is a mill offcut - I purchased 3.5 meters of it for 40 GBP - he has a lot of cloth at these kind of prices, taking advantage of his proximity to the Yorkshire mills - I purchased 3 different lengths all in the price range of 12-20 GBP per meter.

    This one is 97% super 130 and 3% cashmere blend.

    This seller is on vacation until May 5, but check out his auctions on his return.

    Matt
     


  4. johnapril

    johnapril Distinguished Member

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    Matt, will do. Thanks for the response. And, again, that is a brilliant cloth. I rarely see something that really strikes me.

    I imagine the cloth has a soft hand. To what else would you compare it?

    John
     


  5. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Looks not bad. Certainly, you're getting decent value.

    For this round, I'd look at the left elbow. Is that lying OK, and if not is it the cut or the pressing job?

    For next time, the jacket looks perhaps a shade long---not a lot. Nothing seriously wrong with now, but could be different and still OK. See how this feels when you wear it. Related to this, the flap pockets look to be a little low. Again, this is a fine-tuning issue, and will be easier now that you've all done it once.
     


  6. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Distinguished Member

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    There is still that weird pleat on the back, near the right armhole. The pockets could have been a bit higher. This is otherwise pretty decent, and I like the fabric a lot.
    How much did the suit cost?

    luc
     


  7. Matt

    Matt [email protected]

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    all will be revealed in due course :)
     


  8. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Distinguished Member

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    Looking good, [email protected] I'm really enjoying this series.

    The sleeve buttons look fine to me. Some people say they're supposed to kiss, but I honestly don't see why that's required. Plenty of crappy fused jackets at BR and H&M have kissing sleeve buttons. Having this feature doesn't make a poorly constructed jacket good. And lacking this feature doesn't make an otherwise well-made jacket bad. At least in my opinion.

    Is it just me, or are the jacket pockets just a *hair* too low? It may be the angle of the photos, but how do others feel?

    EDIT: I still think this looks awfully good for a first suit with this tailor. Just imagine how nice your third or fourth suit is going to look. (Assuming he's willing to put up with such an exacting customer..)
     


  9. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Distinguished Member

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    I think the sleeves look very nice. They have a nice taper.

    Pants definitely need shortening.

    I would get the waist suppressed. Especially going by the back shot, it looks like the silhouette is quite boxy and there is a lot of extra fabric in there. But, if that's the sillhouette you are looking for, it's all good.

    Enjoy.
     


  10. Matt

    Matt [email protected]

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    what the hell, Ill play my cost card now....

    What would you guys say to $140 all told? Cloth, shipping, taxes, workmanship....
     


  11. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Distinguished Member

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    At those prices, are you going to get a lot more suits from this guy?? You could be like his "patron".
     


  12. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Distinguished Member

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    beats Today's Man.
     


  13. thinman

    thinman Distinguished Member

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    I choked on the water I was drinking. Beautiful fabric and I think you'll have a very nice suit when all's done.
     


  14. demeis

    demeis Distinguished Member

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    I agree, nice fabric you got me checking ebay right now but i don't see anything that nice yet. And for $140? Thats crazy.
     


  15. johnapril

    johnapril Distinguished Member

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    At those prices, you could take the thing to a reputable tailor, have it fixed, and still come out on top.
     


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