My shoulder and my suit

[alchimiste]

One of my shoulders is somewhat forward, so that there is a hollow space over my collar bone. The sneaky jacket takes advantage of this: the fabric does not go smoothly from armscye to lapel, it kind of collapses in due to lack of support. Is there a way to fix this (shoulder padding, canvas, etc.)?

 

[Despos]

Your description of the fitting issue does not give enough information. The hollow at the neck could have two answers. Either your shoulder line is more square than the jacket or you are low at the neck point, where your shoulder and neck meet.
The effect you desrcibe falls on the upper chest between armhole and lapel. Two different areas.

The jacket shoulder can be squared up to lay on your shoulder. Not the most simple work to do.

The concave chest may be related or may be caused by something else. If the jacket front is fused and no chest piece. that could be one explanation. That would mean it is the nature of the construction of the jacket to fall in like that.

This type of work will get the best result if you use a tailor proficient at making a garment and not an alterations tailor with little coat making experience. Even then, it may take more than one shot to correct.

 

[j]

I've seen horizontal darts under the lapel of a couple of bespoke jackets - is this what they are meant to correct?

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by j

I've seen horizontal darts under the lapel of a couple of bespoke jackets - is this what they are meant to correct?
All of mine have this feature. I believe, but am not sure, that it allows for more drape/fullness over the chest while still being able to keep a nice tight collar.

 

[Panzeraxe II]

Originally Posted by iammatt

All of mine have this feature. I believe, but am not sure, that it allows for more drape/fullness over the chest while still being able to keep a nice tight collar.

Yep - that's exactly what it is for. And it works extremely well.

Panzer

 

[GBR]

Originally Posted by alchimiste

One of my shoulders is somewhat forward, so that there is a hollow space over my collar bone. The sneaky jacket takes advantage of this: the fabric does not go smoothly from armscye to lapel, it kind of collapses in due to lack of support. Is there a way to fix this (shoulder padding, canvas, etc.)?


See a surgeon and get a fitting for a new shoulder.

 

[Matt]

long time no see Mathieu, good to see you back man,

Im just back up from Singapore actually, down your way for a wedding.

Hope you are well.

 

[maomao1980]

I'm not sure if we have the same problem, but here are my two cents. I have relatively square shoulders and thus most OTR jackets have some collar rolls on me. This problem is usually solved with 2 methods, one is to pick jackets with minimal shoulder padding as this helps it drape over the shoulders. The second approach is work on the traps at the gym. I find that after only two weeks of work, the collar rolls is eliminated significantly. Of course you can always go MTM, but I personally do not have the patience for it.

 

[alchimiste]

Originally Posted by maomao1980

I'm not sure if we have the same problem, but here are my two cents. I have relatively square shoulders and thus most OTR jackets have some collar rolls on me.
It's not a slope problem. My shoulder pitches forward, so that there is a gap between sleeve and lapel.

 

[Despos]

I've seen horizontal darts under the lapel of a couple of bespoke jackets - is this what they are meant to correct?

This dart serves two purposes. On a full chest it creates more chest and a shorter strap. ( strap is the line from shoulder at neck to button, the breakline more or less)
It shortens the strap line at the neck to improve the way the jacket will lay down on the upper chest around the collar bone.
The best effect comes when you make the same cut in the canvas.
I have worked for tailors who always made this dart and others who thought it worthless and never use it. The second group of tailors get this effect from bridle tape. I've agreed with both of them at different times.

I use it to create a full chest or on a DB. The strap length is longer on a DB and it helps to shorten the strap and keep the front edge from falling out at the bottom.

It's not a slope problem. My shoulder pitches forward, so that there is a gap between sleeve and lapel.

Adjusting for a forward pitch shoulder is difficult when the jacket is finished.
The shoulder needs the front neck to be squared, more fullness on the backpart. The canvas needs a cut about 2" forward of the shoulder line and a second cut in the haircloth. The canvas is worked with an iron to stretch this area. You are making room, a pocket, for your shoulder bone. The shoulder finishes with a "swing' forward. You can not work this into a fused jacket and there are limits to what can be done when altering a finished jacket. No outlets of extra cloth in the shoulder area.

I give this forward movement to all my shoulders. It helps the jacket to stay on your shoulder and gives a kinetic quality to the shoulder and jacket.
I have a client with extreme forward shoulders. If you viewed him from above, his shoulder line is quite curved forward. Not a straight line from shoulder point to point but a c shape. This method fits him perfectly.