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My search for a Tuxedo

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by knwledgeispower, Jun 29, 2013.

  1. knwledgeispower

    knwledgeispower Member

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    Hi all -

    I am fairly new to posting (have been lurking for quite some time) and thought i would utilize this thread to keep track of my search for a Tuxedo (Sept 2014 wedding). This will be my first MTM/Bespoke purchase in general, so the whole process of even finding a person or place has been a bit overwhelming. Hopefully this thread can assist others in the future when searching for a MTM/Bespoke/OTR Tuxedo and or Tailor in Chicago.

    So far, I have found the names and potential options of the below places and or persons. I will keep this thread updated if/when I speak and or visit. If anyone has additional suggestions I am all ears.

    At this time I am leaning towards a midnight blue, Shawl collar (but this misses prefers a peak lapel), single button setup.


    Chris Despos - While I do not think Chris's work can be disputed, it is simply out of my budget. I sent Chris an email inquiry, he responded promptly and thoroughly. I hope to discuss a bespoke blue blazer with him down the road.

    Nicholas Joseph - While I was not able to find many reviews on this company I visited them this morning. The personnel were very friendly and communication via email was prompt and thorough.

    Thoughts: if there were no other options available in Chicago - I do not think i would have an issue using them for a tux. They offer half canvassed jackets, 110, 120, 140 fabrics an a myriad of options for shirts as well. I tried on a midnight blue/shawl collar and a black/peak lapel tux they had on the showroom floor - to my surprise they actually fit fairly well. Stitching seemed well done and uniform, the sleeve buttons were functional, lining was nice, and they do a bit of a roped shoulder which I really love. It was an overall nice experience.

    (a gentleman was in for his initial fitting while I was there. I observed from my area, and to my untrained eye the suit fit well - no creases in upper/lower back/ arms were good length/ no pulling in the front)

    Oxxford - to be contacted

    Paul Chang Tailor - Called this afternoon and left a voicemail - will update when I receive a return call

    Ralph Lauren - Called the downtown location and spoke to Mark. He was very friendly. He advised they have their trunk show in September and it would be good to come in during that time to save some costs. If I am in the city between now and then I will stop by and see him.

    Brooks Brothers - to be contacted

    Richard Bennett - to be contacted


    Thanks for any suggestions!
     


  2. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Add Paul Stuart to your list. I do not know whetther they do MTM for tuxes, but their
    standard " trad" tux, I own one decades old, that is a classic.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2013


  3. knwledgeispower

    knwledgeispower Member

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    Thanks, I will add them to the growing list.

    Hopefully, by starting this early I can commission one or two potential places to make me a shirt and assess their work and process prior to committing to a full setup.
     


  4. rob

    rob Senior member

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    Knwl,

    I encourage you to plan on meeting and using Chris at some point. However, fair warning, once you go there you will automatically increase your clothing budget. He has that effect.

    Rob
     


  5. Dempsy444

    Dempsy444 Senior member

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    I guess it depends on how much you're willing to spend. If you're looking to spend less than $2k then Canali makes a sharp tux.

    If you start getting above $3k in you search, and some of names you listed will easily get you above that ( including RL) , then you
    should elect to tack on a little more and go with Despos. He'll do it right and you'll feel great in it.

    If you're concerned that you won't wear the tux enough to justify the price then you could go with a black or midnight blue peak-lapel single button
    2 piece suit from Chris. That's what he made for my wedding and I found that I wear it fairly often - maybe 10 times in the last year. It's by far the best bespoke suit I have.

    I agree with Rob though. If you live in Chicago you're playing with fire.
     


  6. knwledgeispower

    knwledgeispower Member

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    Very interesting idea!

    Ideally, i would like to be around $2,000. However, i had not given a thought to a midnight blue "suit". That is a very interesting idea and your right - i would probably get more use out of a suit than a formal tuxedo. But by creating a suit so similar to a tux are we getting a bit into the parody realm (in a bad way)?

    can you post or send any pics of the suit Chris made for you? Any details (pocket styles/darts/ etc) I am very interested in seeing what that looks like. Also, what did your groomsman wear?

    Any pics would be great!

    Thanks
     


  7. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    A midnight blue peak lapel single-button suit is pretty damn close to a tuxedo. I assume you wear it with a plain-front shirt and FIH tie to keep it solidly in suit territory?
     


  8. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    ^If it is a daytime wedding, the suit should definitely be preferred to a tuxedo. if you really want to snazz it up, add a vest, maybe a double-breasted shawl lapel.

    You might also want to consider my friends from Kowloon, W.W. Chan. They visit Chicago on every tour. You can find out a lot about them on the forum, and they do excellent work, as I can personally attest.
     


  9. Dempsy444

    Dempsy444 Senior member

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    I had a black peak lapel suit made, not midnight blue. I think only the stodgiest of the English would consider it a parody but of course they think the tux is a parody of the morning coat, and I dare you to wear a morning coat;) Here in the States I think people moved beyond this mindset years ago. In fact, in my city of San Francisco, people would rather see you in a well fitted black suit than in a tux. There are plenty of evening functions here where a black suit fits in just right but a tux would be too much.

    As for our wedding, we got married in DC in the evening so black seemed appropriate. I didn't want a tux because I figured I wouldn't wear it often enough.
    The groomsman wore black suits with charcoal ties and I wore a platinum tie with mine. I'll send you a pick.

    Like I said, I've worn it about ten times since the wedding but never before 5pm. It's always been an evening suit for other weddings or parties. I'll either wear it with a white shirt and platinum tie or sometimes with a gray shirt and dark tie. It gets complimented every time I wear it and it is incredibly comfortable to wear.

    Having said all this, I think my wedding would have been just as sharp if my groomsman and I would have worn gray and of course grey is even more practical.

    I don't have experience with the other tailors you mentioned in Chicago. I know Oxxford is very expensive so don't see them coming out around $2k.
     


  10. Working Stiff

    Working Stiff Senior member

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    Bear in mind that an awful lot of the internet rules about tuxedos and wedding wear are basically made up and don't really exist in the real world.
     


  11. rob

    rob Senior member

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    Why not make it a midnight blue double breasted?
     


  12. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    I was aware of many of them many years before I ever so much as heard of the Internet.
     


  13. Dempsy444

    Dempsy444 Senior member

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    ^If it is a daytime wedding, the suit should definitely be preferred to a tuxedo. if you really want to snazz it up, add a vest, maybe a double-breasted shawl lapel.
     


  14. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    +1. A 9-10 ounce wool mohair blend DB in midnight blue would be absolutely stunning. It's a perfect suit for a formal event where a tuxedo would be too much and will probably get a lot more use than a tuxedo. If OP isn't a fan of DB suits, this could well be the place to do a peak lapel one button suit in a similar fabric.
     


  15. knwledgeispower

    knwledgeispower Member

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    wow great replies!

    i am very interested in considering a single button peak lapel suit, as it may get a lot more use than a tuxedo. As i only own a couple suits at this time, i would prefer to keep single button vs. double breasted. I can appreciate a good double breasted suit, but not for me at this time.

    FWIW the wedding is planned to be around 5-6pm, so it will be an "evening" wedding...

    Dempsy - thanks for the pictures. the setup looks amazing!
     


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