My Recent EG Ashby Fitting

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Lynch Bages, Nov 14, 2004.

  1. Lynch Bages

    Lynch Bages Active Member

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    While in NY on business last week I dropped by Saks to check out the current inventory of EG shoes.

    Although they had a large selection on display (Dover, Berkeley, Cadogan, Olney, Chelsea, Southwold, Ashby and some casuals) they had very few in my size (I am normally an 8.5/9 D in EG and own shoes on the 606, 202 and 89 lasts.)

    I asked to try on the Ashby, which Saks is carrying on the 606 last. The salesman informed me that they did not have an 8.5/9 but that I should nevertheless try on the 9/9.5 because the Ashby allegedly fits differently than other EG shoes.

    At first, I thought the salesman was just trying to push a shoe that I knew would be too big for me. You see, I have the Dover on the 606 last in size 8.5/9 and it fits my foot like a second skin. Given the similarity in appearance between the Dover and Ashby, I did not think there would be any way the 9/9.5 would fit. I was wrong.

    I was surprised to learn that the salesman was exactly right. The Ashby fits much more narrowly than the Dover and, as it turns out, the 9/9.5 was exactly the right fitting.

    Out of curiosity, I then asked to try a Dover in the 9/9.5. It was HUGE on my foot. Thus, either the Ashby runs a size smaller or the pair of shoes I bought was mismarked.

    Overall, the experience was excellent and I would reccomend buying EG shoes at Saks. The prices were very competitive and, if you have them shipped to another state, Saks will not impose sales tax (even if they have a store located in the state where you live).
     


  2. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Which model is Ashby? It's not ringing a bell right now. It really is amazing how the same last can fit radically differently depending on the shoe that's made on it.

    Which salesman helped you? I've had good luck with Gary, who's rather tall with longish hair and glasses.
     


  3. Lynch Bages

    Lynch Bages Active Member

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    The Ashby is essentially the Dover only in a monkstrap. I think the salesman's name was Larry.
     


  4. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I thought that was Yardley. Or were the quarters the same piece of leather as the pieces under the apron?
     


  5. Lynch Bages

    Lynch Bages Active Member

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    This is from a prior post by bengalstripe:

    I believe the Ashby is brand new to the EG collection (but it might be a revival of a previous style).

    Both styles have hand-stitched aprons (lakes), but the Yardley has the apron going over the sides (raised lake) while in the Ashby the sides go over the apron (sunken? Lake). Another difference is that the Ashby has sidepieces that go right from the toe to the back to the heel (just like the Dover) while the Yardley has separate quarters and a thus a division between front and back part.

    Ashby consists of 3 main pieces: 2 sides, 1 apron; while the Yardley has five pieces: 2 front sides, 1 apron, 2 quarters.

    Although I have the new catalogue (at least the wall sheet) a week or so in my possession, I hadn't noticed the Ashby before. It's rather a nice shoe.
     


  6. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, that'll teach me to shoot off my mouth without doing a search.

    What color does Saks have the shoe in? Did you end up buying?
     


  7. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    I can't tell the difference between the Ashby and Yardley regarding the way the aprons are stitched, but if Bengal-Stripe says there is a difference, then it must be so.

    The clearest difference is the buckle fastening. As Lynch Bages and Bengal-Stripe say, on the Yardley, that piece continues to the back, whilst on the Ashby, it is a single piece per side, going from toeseam to back.
     


  8. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I haven't seen the Ashby in the flesh (or in the skin) and the only illustration I have is the new poster. I've looked at the pictures with a magnifying glass and I believe that Ashby and the new loafer Sloane have a "sunken" lake while all the other skin stitched models have a "raised" lake. Maybe I'm wrong and it's just an optical illusion. Definitely the Ashby has the sides in one single piece, while the Yardley has a joint right in the middle of the shoe. I still cannot understand why that should account for such a difference in size.
     


  9. Lynch Bages

    Lynch Bages Active Member

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    Saks has the Ashby in both black and burnt pine. I purchased the burnt pine. It is a beautiful shoe.
     


  10. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Senior member

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    Saw the Ashby today in person at Saks, and it's defintely a better version of the Yardley. Much cleaner lines. I don't think that the lake is sunken though. I could clearly feel the edge of the apron along the outer stitching. I can understand how the new catalogue pics can be misleading. The pictures are a full quarter of an inch smaller than the previous generation catalogue. A somewhat off-topic question concerning the Yardley's construction. Has any one else noticed that the split of the toe doesn't go all the way up to the stitching on the apron. You can somewhat see it in this pic. There is a definite gap above the top of the split where the leather looks like it's one piece. On the Dover, Halifax, and Ashby the split goes all the way to the top. Does this indicate that the Yardley's front is made up of one piece that has been only partially cut in two, or am I just misunderstanding how the toe is made?
     


  11. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Senior member

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    Here's a better pic to illustrate my question in the previous post. The Dover on the right has the split cover the full height of the toe box whereas the two Yardleys have a small gap. This is most clealy visble on the light-colored Yardley. [​IMG]
     


  12. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I hadn't noticed it on the Yardley before, but on a wholecut loafer, I think the Brampton. It is essentially a dart, pulling a triangular section to the inside, to give it more shape. Same principle (although machine stitched) is the dart in the heel counter (heel cap). There is a little seam, taking in the bottom ¾" of the counter and eliminating what would be otherwise excessive fullness. (Trousers have darts above the back pockets, as people usually have more fullness in the butt than in the waist.) Yes, in this case it means that the front-sides of the Yardley are one single (crescent shaped) piece of leather.
     


  13. Stu

    Stu Senior member

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    Looked at it under a magnifying glass? LOL Bengal-Stripe, maybe you should cross rereference this thread on the "you know you are obsesses with clothes when .." thread.
     


  14. norcaltransplant

    norcaltransplant Senior member

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    LB,
    Was Larry a thinning, middle-aged man with a distinctive, dare I guess, Texan accent? I almost bought a pair of Cheaney chukkas last season in light tan from him. One of the better salesmen at the NYC location.
     


  15. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Senior member

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    Thank you for clearing that up. Now that I've noticed this gap, I can't help thinking that the Yardley is not as nice as its counterparts in other styles. Still, a pretty good looking shoe though.
     


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