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Except for some bored Brits with too much time and not enough problems, I think that most people have accepted the hoodie as a staple of streetwear. Here are my picks for the top 10 hoodies this season, in no particular order. What do you guys have?
1) Loopwheeler LW05
This is the classic fit pullover hoodie. The material is the selling point. The fit is a slightly slmmer version of the classic hoodie shape. I know that the zip ups are perhaps more popular, but they pullover version is truer to the original Champion hooded sweatshirts that became popular in the 60s.
The picture on the Loopwheeler site makes it look dumpy, and does the piece no justice. Nevertheless:
http://www.loopwheeler.co.jp/store/index.html
Wear with something classic, like Sugar Cane 47s or another '47 repro. Maybe the LVC version (hey, there's a thought.)
2) W+H slim fit black tiger fleece hoodie. Great fit, great take on the classic shape, cut slim, with really good construction and trims, with distinctive pockets and long hem and cuffs. The terrific thing, however, is that W+H have really perfected their tiger fleece this year, just in time to catch the season of everything tweed. The black tiger fleece material for FW 06 looks uncannily like Donegal tweed at first glance, a little bit of trompe d'oeil, since it is really a soft and comfortable cotton blend fleece. \t
Wear with: something modern and utilitarian, like A.P.C. New Standards.
3) Rittenhouse vintage red button up hoodie - first off, the color is a terrific washed red. Second, it has some great details, like asymmetric kangaroo pockets and hem, a high button up front, and inset elbow piece. Fitted but not theatrically so, which is good, because the details are quite enough as is. Don't wear it super tight, or you'll remind me of those idiots that wear CdG shirts or Yamamoto jackets really fitted. (note to those guys - the oversized fit is on purpose. On purpose.)
Available at www.oipolloi.com
Wear with something clean but with similar muted colors - a pair of Masons cargos or Rag&Bone (the kings of grey cast denim). Rag&Bone's RB6's are perfect.
4) YMC lined hoodie cardigan - a thick, knit button up cardigan with a striped cotton blend lining. Very warm, nice drape. Combines two classics very well, and nice enough for dinner at Grandma's at Christmas. Expensive at around $300, so maybe Grandma can get you that for Christmas instead of something with reindeer on it.
Also available at www.oipolloi.com
Wear with something with an Americana feel like 5EP raw bootcuts or straightlegs, or Rogan Original Cut in ethanols.
5) Engineered Garments thermal lined. Like all of Daiki Suzuki's work, this piece is a very well take on a classic, in this case, a classic heather grey, black, or navy hoodie. Thermal lined, it is easily the warmest hoodie I have, or have tried on this year (with the YMC hoodie a close second.) What makes it really unique is not this though, nor the really well designed three piece hood, nor the signature neck closure (found on a lot of this years Engineered Garments) outerwear, but the ribbed side piece that morphs into a raglan sleeve detail.
Available at www.hejfina.com
Wear with something classic up updated, something with saturated color and or interesting texture to match the texture and details. My choice are 5EP raw bootcuts or PBJ-XX003s.
6) Surface to Air Kanjii bird hoodie. I like graphics on my hoodies, but most graphics I see these days are not compelling and either here today gone tomorrow trends (see "all round prints" in dictionary,) or have juvenile imagery and messages (see Paris branch of Surface to Air). However, the NYC based branch of Surface to Air keeps completely on point with their Kanjii bird hoodie, more streetwear than anything else on this list while not obviously designed for a 15 year old kid who is mad at daddy.
available at www.factorypeople.com
It's a little more dramatic and a little more in your face than most of the other hoodies I've listed here, so wear it with something a little more street and a little looser like Corpus Fine or Nudie Regular Ralphs worn loose.
7) American Apparel Thermal lined. At $54, it is less than half as expensive, and in some cases, less that 3 times as expensive as some of the others on this list. No, the stitching is not as good, and the zipper is a cheapo, not particularly durable plastic thing, but the fit is pretty spot on, slim but comfortable, and hitting just under the belt line, the thermal lining comfortable, and available in all sorts of colors. And did I mention that it was only $54? And because it is probably the plainest hoodie around, it goes with everything.
Available at the barely work safe www.americanapparel.net
Wear with anything. Since I haven't mentioned them, I suggest the Lee 101Zs.
8) Nicholas K Drew hoodie - really more of a jacket than a hoodie, with flapped pockets. The cotton linen blend is a nice change from the 100% cotton or cotton/polyester blends of most hoodies, the charcoal color goes with everything, and the zip away hood gives you lots of different looks. Besides, Nicholas K is has had a stellar season for women (see their "lantern bearer's coat"), and it's nice for us to get something too. The line still has some ways to go in terms of menswear, but it is nearly there.
Was available at www.oaknyc.com No longer there. Not sure where else there is a picture. Maybe on the Nicholas K site.
Wear with something modern and slim. Not Superfuture slim (that trend is on its way out the door anyway, I'll put good money on that,) but a pair of Chimala jeans
9) Edun Raw Edge hoodie - it's hard to do a hoodie with raw edges without it looking sort of cheap (NSF is always on the verge of getting it right, but haven't quite gotten there yet), or super faux goth (Rick Owens raw edged hoodies are nice, but imo, borders on costume) or both. Edun does a good job, imo, with just a bit of raw edge detail on the raglan shoulders, at the pockets, and along the side seam, and a zipper that goes fully around the hood. Very wearable without being boring.
Available at www.saks.com, last I knew.
Wear with some casual jeans to keep the look toned down. Since this is one of the more accessible jeans on the list, pair it with a pair of Earnest Sewn Maz Dark Hutch jeans, imo one of the best pairs of mass market jeans available.
10) Nom de Guerre zip up hoodie - ridiculously expensive. It makes the Nicholas K hoodie, which clocks in at $225 or so, look pretty reasonably priced. It is also ridiculously difficult to find (you can find it at Nom de Guerre in Soho, which is in and of itself remarkably difficult to find, and a few of their very few stockists, but the hood shape is perfect (well, actually, I like the Engineered Garments hood more, but they are in different categories lookwise). Large enough to look really good pulled up (although who really uses the hood on their hoodies?), and falls really well on the neck. The fit is really nice - fitted and relaxed, simultaneously. Really well built too. Too bad you'll actually have to sell Grandma to pay for it. Actually, about the same price as the YMC, but the YMC is knit wool and fully lined.
Available from Blackbird in Seattle. See the Nom de Guerre thread for link to their blogspot, which now contains a picture of the hoodie, grey version of the M65, and the shawl collar coat. The pics were taken from too high an angle, but you get the idea.
Wear with either Nom de Guerre jeans for the head to toe look (no, I'm joking. Don't do it). But it really looks good with some dark cast, slightly slouchy straight leg jeans. Atelier La Durance's slim (mer) fit jeans would do the trick here. Don't remember the model name off the top of my head.
Honorable mention
W+H shawl collar sweatshirt. It's not really a hoodie, but it is a sweatshirt, and a great alternative to a hoodie, especially in those events that a hoodie might be a bit too casual, like dinner with the in-laws.
Search for pictures on this forum. I've posted it like, 3 times now. It is in the recent purchases thread for sure, and the $1500 thread as well.
5EPs and APC new standards are my go-to jean with mine. Hmmm, apparently I wear my 5EPs a lot these days.
Overrated, overpriced, or just plain ugly: Raf Simons, Woodwood (hype, hype, mentions in pseudo indie magazines like Nylon Guy, hype, hype,) Rick Owens and Dior Homme (if you want to pay huge bucks for either a Hallowe'en costume or a really plain hoodie with a cool tag with great typography, respectively, be my guest) A&G Cashmere - because soft cashmere doesn't excuse really overdone graphics, Lucien Pellat Finet - because wearing $1200 hoodies (or $450 for the cotton versions!) makes you an idiot of the Paris Hilton type, no questions asked.
1) Loopwheeler LW05
This is the classic fit pullover hoodie. The material is the selling point. The fit is a slightly slmmer version of the classic hoodie shape. I know that the zip ups are perhaps more popular, but they pullover version is truer to the original Champion hooded sweatshirts that became popular in the 60s.
The picture on the Loopwheeler site makes it look dumpy, and does the piece no justice. Nevertheless:
http://www.loopwheeler.co.jp/store/index.html
Wear with something classic, like Sugar Cane 47s or another '47 repro. Maybe the LVC version (hey, there's a thought.)
2) W+H slim fit black tiger fleece hoodie. Great fit, great take on the classic shape, cut slim, with really good construction and trims, with distinctive pockets and long hem and cuffs. The terrific thing, however, is that W+H have really perfected their tiger fleece this year, just in time to catch the season of everything tweed. The black tiger fleece material for FW 06 looks uncannily like Donegal tweed at first glance, a little bit of trompe d'oeil, since it is really a soft and comfortable cotton blend fleece. \t
Wear with: something modern and utilitarian, like A.P.C. New Standards.
3) Rittenhouse vintage red button up hoodie - first off, the color is a terrific washed red. Second, it has some great details, like asymmetric kangaroo pockets and hem, a high button up front, and inset elbow piece. Fitted but not theatrically so, which is good, because the details are quite enough as is. Don't wear it super tight, or you'll remind me of those idiots that wear CdG shirts or Yamamoto jackets really fitted. (note to those guys - the oversized fit is on purpose. On purpose.)
Available at www.oipolloi.com
Wear with something clean but with similar muted colors - a pair of Masons cargos or Rag&Bone (the kings of grey cast denim). Rag&Bone's RB6's are perfect.
4) YMC lined hoodie cardigan - a thick, knit button up cardigan with a striped cotton blend lining. Very warm, nice drape. Combines two classics very well, and nice enough for dinner at Grandma's at Christmas. Expensive at around $300, so maybe Grandma can get you that for Christmas instead of something with reindeer on it.
Also available at www.oipolloi.com
Wear with something with an Americana feel like 5EP raw bootcuts or straightlegs, or Rogan Original Cut in ethanols.
5) Engineered Garments thermal lined. Like all of Daiki Suzuki's work, this piece is a very well take on a classic, in this case, a classic heather grey, black, or navy hoodie. Thermal lined, it is easily the warmest hoodie I have, or have tried on this year (with the YMC hoodie a close second.) What makes it really unique is not this though, nor the really well designed three piece hood, nor the signature neck closure (found on a lot of this years Engineered Garments) outerwear, but the ribbed side piece that morphs into a raglan sleeve detail.
Available at www.hejfina.com
Wear with something classic up updated, something with saturated color and or interesting texture to match the texture and details. My choice are 5EP raw bootcuts or PBJ-XX003s.
6) Surface to Air Kanjii bird hoodie. I like graphics on my hoodies, but most graphics I see these days are not compelling and either here today gone tomorrow trends (see "all round prints" in dictionary,) or have juvenile imagery and messages (see Paris branch of Surface to Air). However, the NYC based branch of Surface to Air keeps completely on point with their Kanjii bird hoodie, more streetwear than anything else on this list while not obviously designed for a 15 year old kid who is mad at daddy.
available at www.factorypeople.com
It's a little more dramatic and a little more in your face than most of the other hoodies I've listed here, so wear it with something a little more street and a little looser like Corpus Fine or Nudie Regular Ralphs worn loose.
7) American Apparel Thermal lined. At $54, it is less than half as expensive, and in some cases, less that 3 times as expensive as some of the others on this list. No, the stitching is not as good, and the zipper is a cheapo, not particularly durable plastic thing, but the fit is pretty spot on, slim but comfortable, and hitting just under the belt line, the thermal lining comfortable, and available in all sorts of colors. And did I mention that it was only $54? And because it is probably the plainest hoodie around, it goes with everything.
Available at the barely work safe www.americanapparel.net
Wear with anything. Since I haven't mentioned them, I suggest the Lee 101Zs.
8) Nicholas K Drew hoodie - really more of a jacket than a hoodie, with flapped pockets. The cotton linen blend is a nice change from the 100% cotton or cotton/polyester blends of most hoodies, the charcoal color goes with everything, and the zip away hood gives you lots of different looks. Besides, Nicholas K is has had a stellar season for women (see their "lantern bearer's coat"), and it's nice for us to get something too. The line still has some ways to go in terms of menswear, but it is nearly there.
Was available at www.oaknyc.com No longer there. Not sure where else there is a picture. Maybe on the Nicholas K site.
Wear with something modern and slim. Not Superfuture slim (that trend is on its way out the door anyway, I'll put good money on that,) but a pair of Chimala jeans
9) Edun Raw Edge hoodie - it's hard to do a hoodie with raw edges without it looking sort of cheap (NSF is always on the verge of getting it right, but haven't quite gotten there yet), or super faux goth (Rick Owens raw edged hoodies are nice, but imo, borders on costume) or both. Edun does a good job, imo, with just a bit of raw edge detail on the raglan shoulders, at the pockets, and along the side seam, and a zipper that goes fully around the hood. Very wearable without being boring.
Available at www.saks.com, last I knew.
Wear with some casual jeans to keep the look toned down. Since this is one of the more accessible jeans on the list, pair it with a pair of Earnest Sewn Maz Dark Hutch jeans, imo one of the best pairs of mass market jeans available.
10) Nom de Guerre zip up hoodie - ridiculously expensive. It makes the Nicholas K hoodie, which clocks in at $225 or so, look pretty reasonably priced. It is also ridiculously difficult to find (you can find it at Nom de Guerre in Soho, which is in and of itself remarkably difficult to find, and a few of their very few stockists, but the hood shape is perfect (well, actually, I like the Engineered Garments hood more, but they are in different categories lookwise). Large enough to look really good pulled up (although who really uses the hood on their hoodies?), and falls really well on the neck. The fit is really nice - fitted and relaxed, simultaneously. Really well built too. Too bad you'll actually have to sell Grandma to pay for it. Actually, about the same price as the YMC, but the YMC is knit wool and fully lined.
Available from Blackbird in Seattle. See the Nom de Guerre thread for link to their blogspot, which now contains a picture of the hoodie, grey version of the M65, and the shawl collar coat. The pics were taken from too high an angle, but you get the idea.
Wear with either Nom de Guerre jeans for the head to toe look (no, I'm joking. Don't do it). But it really looks good with some dark cast, slightly slouchy straight leg jeans. Atelier La Durance's slim (mer) fit jeans would do the trick here. Don't remember the model name off the top of my head.
Honorable mention
W+H shawl collar sweatshirt. It's not really a hoodie, but it is a sweatshirt, and a great alternative to a hoodie, especially in those events that a hoodie might be a bit too casual, like dinner with the in-laws.
Search for pictures on this forum. I've posted it like, 3 times now. It is in the recent purchases thread for sure, and the $1500 thread as well.
5EPs and APC new standards are my go-to jean with mine. Hmmm, apparently I wear my 5EPs a lot these days.
Overrated, overpriced, or just plain ugly: Raf Simons, Woodwood (hype, hype, mentions in pseudo indie magazines like Nylon Guy, hype, hype,) Rick Owens and Dior Homme (if you want to pay huge bucks for either a Hallowe'en costume or a really plain hoodie with a cool tag with great typography, respectively, be my guest) A&G Cashmere - because soft cashmere doesn't excuse really overdone graphics, Lucien Pellat Finet - because wearing $1200 hoodies (or $450 for the cotton versions!) makes you an idiot of the Paris Hilton type, no questions asked.
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