My new John Lobb Beckett's

[crwecko]

Dear All,

Today I went upto Northampton after a sleepless night of worrying about shoes. I ended up getting the Beckett's at the factory store. They are in almost mint condition and I bought them in Black. I chose Black because it can go with everything and I didnt want to wear a black suit with brown shoes as it might look wierd. Also the Dark Brown Museum Calf is more of a burgundy type colour which was beautiful. The 8 1/2 E was too tight even though that's my usual size so I ended up getting a 9 E which fit perfectly on the right foot but was a bit loose on the left. I have to tell you that my size on my right foot is 1/2 a size bigger than my left. The shoes were 245 which is how much they always go for at the factory for the prestige.

After John Lobb I went to Crockett and Jones to look at their shoes and found some nice wholecuts from their handgrade collection. Specifically I liked the Hanover and Finchley models which were handgrade wholecuts but there were none in my size. The Hanover seemed to have a bit more of a square toe shape similar to the Becketts I bought. I did think it was a bit pricey though to pay 220 for C&J Handgrades when in comparisson JL were only 25 pounds more! One thing I noticed about C&J though is that they let you go in the stockroom in the back and there is a lot more choice than JL. Also on the C&J Subs it's almost impossible to notice the flaws compared to the JLs where on most of them it was fairly noticable although minute.

Edward Green was appointment only and was not open on weekends. Also EG was 350 which is a worse saving than JL. I really liked the beveled waist on the JL and the leather was better than the C&J.

Thanks for everyones help. I didnt get the wholecuts I wanted but I realised I cant buy shoes without trying them on as every shoe fits differently depending on the make, last, etc.. So I could be a size 8 on one shoe if it is a super soft leather and a wide/long last but an 8 1/2 standard but on the JLs it was more of a 9.

I will post pictures later. I was wondering if anyone knew if in Italy there were any outlet or factory stores which were similar for buying seconds or rejects? Does Gravati, Sutor Mantellassi, Bontoni, Lattanzi, etc... have a factory shop or is it only an English thing?

Also do you think that the JL polish and cream is better than other ones to use? Do you think I HAVE to buy the JL shoetree or can I buy another brands?

 

[JayJay]

Good choice on the Becketts. Pics?

 

[speedster.8]

Originally Posted by crwecko

Dear All, I will post pictures later. I was wondering if anyone knew if in Italy there were any outlet or factory stores which were similar for buying seconds or rejects? Does Gravati, Sutor Mantellassi, Bontoni, Lattanzi, etc... have a factory shop or is it only an English thing?
Id say ALL brands have factory stores IF they have RTW lines ... There have been posts earlier, do a search for Vigevano among other.

 

[Pengranger]

Congrats. The JL shop is small but there can be some great finds!

So, if you're still in for another pair of shoes (and I see you're in London), how about the Edward Green (Kurt Geiger) shoes at Harrods or Liberty? Only £175 a pair?

 

[Golf_Nerd]

Originally Posted by crwecko

Dear All,

Thanks for everyones help. I didnt get the wholecuts I wanted ... but I realised I cant buy shoes without trying them on as every shoe fits differently depending on the make, last, etc.. So I could be a size 8 on one shoe if it is a super soft leather and a wide/long last but an 8 1/2 standard but on the JLs it was more of a 9.

I will post pictures later.

I was wondering if anyone knew if in Italy there were any outlet or factory stores which were similar for buying seconds or rejects? Does Gravati, Sutor Mantellassi, Bontoni, Lattanzi, etc... have a factory shop or is it only an English thing?

Also do you think that the JL polish and cream is better than other ones to use? Do you think I HAVE to buy the JL shoetree or can I buy another brands?

Hello,

congrats to the shoes!

In italy are outlets, too.

Other shoe trees will work. I am rotating the different trees to find out which pair fits best.

 

[adagio]

Originally Posted by crwecko

Also do you think that the JL polish and cream is better than other ones to use? Do you think I HAVE to buy the JL shoetree or can I buy another brands?

Congrats, always a worthwhile trip.

I was going to call to the factory shop on Wednesday but I called Jean in the shop in advance and she said they had very little in what I was looking for (something in brown suede). You didn't come across anything like that, did you?

Given that you've gone for black I wouldn't worry about getting Lobb polish. I did get some for a pair of brown museum calf derbys that I bought so as not to change the colour. If you are getting non-Lobb trees do not get the Woodlore Epics. I got a few pairs in large which were way too big (I take a UK 9.5) They then exchanged them for mediums which are entirely too small. They will neither fit my Lobbs nor C&Js. I find the Grenson trees fit particularly well. I think the Lobb trees are £60 in the Jermyn St shop. Not available at the factory shop I think.

Adagio

 

[crwecko]

I dont like the Kurt Geiger's too much as they dont have a wholecut. The only Edward Green I would be very intersted in is the wholecut they offer. I think that they offer a wholecut is something that sets them apart from JL but they didnt have any in stock.

I dont have any pictures of my own yet but they look exactly like these ones: http://www.natoriya.jp/goods_img/JL-BECKETTS-BLK-13.JPG and http://www.natoriya.jp/goods_img/JL-BECKETTS-BLK-12.JPG
I will upload pictures within the next week of my own.

Adagio, they had some brown suede ones ones but they had a captoe and lots of brogueing througout. I dont know what size you are. I saw them in a 6 and 7 I think. Jean and the other lady were both very helpful and knowledgable.

So you would recommend the Grenson shoe trees? I just think that the JL Trees are way overpriced. What will fit the shoes the best and for around 15-30 pounds? Also Is the cream and polish from JL really good quality? Is it Natural? I know the G&G one is completely natural and it costs half of what the JL polish does? I have to tell you that they are Black Museum Calf so there is a certaiin antiquing quality about them! How often should I polish and cream? One week polish and the next cream? You will notice that on a lot of the JL shoes there is an extreme polish on the toe and heal less polished throughout, nice effect I feel.

Another thing I wanted to comment on was the fact that the Crockett and Jones shoe bags to store your shoes in are much nicer than the John Lobb ones. Also C&J have a lot more variety and choice. They had some amazing shoes that were made for other companies like a Picadilly (Patent with beautiful silk satin shoelaces) that was made for Shipton and Heanage PARIS line (http://www.shipton.fr/images/O-picc-pat-390.JPG and http://www.shipton.fr/images/sole-GYW-330.jpg) except that the one on the website is open chaneled but the one in the store was closed channeled and looked closer to the handgrade and on the bottom it said "Crocket and Jones Made in England" where it doesnt on this one and they also had a 2 eyelet derby that was made for Paul Smith. They told me that when the shoe has an X before the item number inside it means it was made for either the Japanese or North American market only and the U is for the general market.

 

[adagio]

Originally Posted by crwecko

Adagio, they had some brown suede ones ones but they had a captoe and lots of brogueing througout. I dont know what size you are. I saw them in a 6 and 7 I think. Jean and the other lady were both very helpful and knowledgable.

So you would recommend the Grenson shoe trees? I just think that the JL Trees are way overpriced. What will fit the shoes the best and for around 15-30 pounds? Also Is the cream and polish from JL really good quality? Is it Natural? I know the G&G one is completely natural and it costs half of what the JL polish does? I have to tell you that they are Black Museum Calf so there is a certaiin antiquing quality about them! How often should I polish and cream? One week polish and the next cream? You will notice that on a lot of the JL shoes there is an extreme polish on the toe and heal less polished throughout, nice effect I feel.

I'm a 9.5 or 10 so they probably didn't have much for me. I just saw that the Grenson trees are £50 on Pediwear. www.pediwear.co.uk/stock.php?range_ID=112 At that rate I'd probably go for the Lobb trees. I assume that the Lobb trees are lasted, so on that basis they would be worth it. If they're not, well then any generic tree should work. I think the Lobb trees have a varnished finished. I know some believe that this is not as effective in absorbing moisture as the untreated cedar trees. Plal has C&J trees for £40. http://plal.com/crockett.htm There are a couple of ebay sellers who have trees that look identical to the Woodlore Epics for around £15. I'm slow to try them though in case they are exactly the same as the Woodlores.

I've only got the one tin of JL polish (mid brown) and it appears to have a very natual wax smell-not a parafin-like smell that you might get from Kiwi. Try searching for threads about polish here and on AAAC. There are a lot of opinions as to what is best. I only use cream occasionally, and I polish about every 3-4 wears, but this is very much an "each to his own" area.

A

 

[crwecko]

I have a pair of Dasco Medium Handcrafted Cedar Trees. Will these work well? I bought them at Harrods for 35 pounds. The shoes are a size 9.

Actually I just realised that the box says Dasco but on the actual shoe tree it says "Medium 645 Dunkelman London." They also have a gold coloured harrods metal logo on top. They are the adjustable kind with spring movement, etc... They smell soooooo amazing and fresh. I have had them for a year but they smell like the tree has just been cut! Completely raw!

 

[Pengranger]

Originally Posted by crwecko

...box says Dasco but on the actual shoe tree it says "Medium 645 Dunkelman London."

Dasco are a brand of Dunkelman & Son Limited. The majority of trees I've seen in shops are made by them http://www.dunkelman.com/ They are based in Desborough, just down the road from Cheaney.

I've had great luck on eBay with Cathcart Elliott, however I think I bought their last unvarnished size 9's http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Shoe-trees-...QQftidZ2QQtZkm

You can get seconds quality (and basically who is bothered about a knot in the wood) for £5 a pair!

 

[XdryMartini]

Sounds great... Can you pick up something for me please?

 

[crwecko]

Originally Posted by XdryMartini

Sounds great... Can you pick up something for me please?

I wish I could but I dont know when I will have time to go up there again. Are you in the states?

What brush should I get for the polishing? What will I need for maintenence of the shoes besides the polish, cream, and shoe tree? Will I need a horeshair brush? What size? Will I need a chamoise? A nice cloth? What would be the process? Is it different for JL because they have an antiquing effect?

Cheers,
Daniel

 

[Kingstonian]

Congratulations on your purchase. You certainly seemed to reseach it very carefully.

Thanks for the information on Northampton. Pricing is particularly useful. I intend to get up there one Friday. I will probably ring them beforehand to see what stock they have. A Sutton and a double monk, or possibly a Vale, is what I am looking for.

Does anybody have experience of Church's factory shop and the prices ?

 

[FrankH]

Originally Posted by Kingstonian

Does anybody have experience of Church's factory shop and the prices ?

Yes, Hi Kingie.

Churchs' Factory shop is in Spencer St, off St James Rd (A45) St James district of Northampton.
Post code. NN5 5JB Tel. 01604 593 313
The prices are approx 65% of the full retail, sometimes better and on some of their most popular types they produce a version specifically for the shop under a different model name, this is done to avoid peeing - off their regular retailers by seeming to undercut them, so state the model that interests you.

It was a little while since I went there, but my recollection was that parking needs advice from them, they are, IIRC, open on Saturdays, but I can't remember if it's all day or just the morning.
It's a direct line to the shop and they are very helpful.

F.

 

[Kingstonian]

Originally Posted by FrankH

Yes, Hi Kingie.

Churchs' Factory shop is in Spencer St, off St James Rd (A45) St James district of Northampton.
Post code. NN5 5JB Tel. 01604 593 313
The prices are approx 65% of the full retail, sometimes better and on some of their most popular types they produce a version specifically for the shop under a different model name, this is done to avoid peeing - off their regular retailers by seeming to undercut them, so state the model that interests you.
F.


Thanks FrankH. Have you changed a letter from AAAC ?

Leatherman knows a lot on Churchs too, but I don't think he uses the factory shop.

I fancy a pair of Strattons in appalorse leather but they are a wide shoe and I would want to try them on to see they were a close enough fit to avoid excessive creasing.