My first topcoat

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by slimjohnson, Dec 21, 2004.

  1. slimjohnson

    slimjohnson Member

    Messages:
    23
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    I am addicted to the wealth of knowledge I consistantly find on this site.  So here's another question: I have decided to become a full-fledged adult and ditch the nylon jacket I used to wear with suits and finally get a decent black, wool topcoat.  Should I go for the double-breated with peak lapels or a single-breasted one with notch lapels?  All my suits are single and notched, so I was thinking double-breasted might mix it up a little.  Thoughts...?
     


  2. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

    Messages:
    14,914
    Likes Received:
    93
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2002
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Depends what you think will be comfortable. A DB is warmer because of the overlapped lapels, and also doesn't look right worn open, so it may be uncomfortable in some not-as-cold conditions. Also, some people think (there is some research on this apparently) that a black overcoat looks cheap or low-class. For your first, a charcoal overcoat would be the best choice IMO, as it will not clash with anything (although that's not typically a major issue with overcoats) and is versatile, etc. If it were me, I'd go with SB as it is not often cold enough to go around wearing a DB buttoned up where I live.

    All that said, I have a DB black wool overcoat that looks great on me and consistently receives compliments, so...
     


  3. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

    Messages:
    10,448
    Likes Received:
    74
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2004
    I think your age and career have something to do with it as well. A double-breasted overcoat looks more professional, more like the uniform of a business-man, in my opinion.
     


  4. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

    Messages:
    13,141
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2004
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    I don't agree that a double breasted overcoat looks more professional, however, the color is probably quite important. I like black quite a bit for overcoats, but charcoal is a good choice as well. I would personally go with single breasted but it really depends on the climate and work environment. For your first overcoat, single is likely better.
     


  5. fkl118

    fkl118 Senior member

    Messages:
    341
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2003
    Location:
    Canada
    I think a single-breasted would be more versatile as your first overcoat. And charcoal gray would be the most versatile colour.
    I tend to only wear my DB coat on really cold days, otherwise I usually prefer my SB's.
     


  6. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

    Messages:
    9,866
    Likes Received:
    970
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2002
    Location:
    Washington, D.C.
    I would go with a gray herringbone, single breasted Chesterfield coat with velvet collar as a first overcoat.  Looks great with everything.  I saw a very nice one at Brooks Brothers whose purchase I am trying to justify in my mind.  A black DB overcoat (to wear with formalwear) would be a nice second coat.
     


  7. HitMan009

    HitMan009 Senior member

    Messages:
    703
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    May 23, 2003
    Charcoal single-breasted with notch napel is the best route. The velvet collar is a nice touch but I think for the first one, the simpler the better. Herringbone weave is great as long as it ain't too bold. Also depending on your location, a chesterfield which in my mind is the full length coat might not be best in say you are in NYC. Climbing up and down stairs for subways, the bottom of the coat is basically like a mop. I would go for something that hits around the knee area. This look is also in my eye a more modern cut although it has been around for just as long as any other model overcoat.... [​IMG]
     


  8. AlanC

    AlanC Minister of Trad

    Messages:
    7,805
    Likes Received:
    66
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2003
    Location:
    Heart of America
    I will join the chorus of single breasted charcoal. No on the black. Unless you go double breasted camel polo coat... (seems like I said that somewhere else recently [​IMG] )
     


  9. FIHTies

    FIHTies Senior member

    Messages:
    2,959
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2004
    Location:
    Back and Better Than Before
    Yeah, I keep reading that but noone says where he should get aforementioned Charcoal Coat so what good are y'all? [​IMG] JJF
     


  10. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

    Messages:
    9,866
    Likes Received:
    970
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2002
    Location:
    Washington, D.C.
    Originally Posted by AlanC,21 Dec. 2004, 4:28
    I will join the chorus of single breasted charcoal. No on the black. Unless you go double breasted camel polo coat... (seems like I said that somewhere else recently [​IMG] )
    Yeah, I keep reading that but noone says where he should get aforementioned Charcoal Coat so what good are y'all? [​IMG] JJF
    Oh, you must mean eBay. Â [​IMG]
     


  11. FIHTies

    FIHTies Senior member

    Messages:
    2,959
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2004
    Location:
    Back and Better Than Before
    Originally Posted by FIHTies,21 Dec. 2004, 4:42
    I will join the chorus of single breasted charcoal. No on the black. Unless you go double breasted camel polo coat... (seems like I said that somewhere else recently [​IMG] )
    Yeah, I keep reading that but noone says where he should get aforementioned Charcoal Coat so what good are y'all? [​IMG] JJF

    Oh, you must mean www.FourInHand.com   [​IMG]
    yes...Thats right. (I love this quote feature.) [​IMG] JJF
     


  12. montecristo#4

    montecristo#4 Senior member

    Messages:
    12,263
    Likes Received:
    18
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2004
    Location:
    Reagan Country (Massachusetts)
    I'm going to throw in the radical suggestion of going with a navy blue coat. I always think navy is more striking than charcoal. I would stick the SB, though, unless you really decide to pimp it up and go for a camel DB, which I think is the most distinguished of overcoats. Not sure I could pull that look off, myself. [​IMG]
     


  13. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

    Messages:
    9,464
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2004
    Would getting a velvet collar still allow you to wear it for everyday use?

    I saw a gentleman this week with a clearly bespoke tan DB overcoat with a bottle greet velvet collar. The colors did not go particularly well in my opinion. Still, it was an interesting look.
     


  14. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

    Messages:
    14,914
    Likes Received:
    93
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2002
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    I think the velvet is more formal, and also more likely to show signs of wear if, for example, you flip up your collar in the cold, etc. I like how they look, but I wouldn't do it for everyday.
     


  15. Eric

    Eric Senior member

    Messages:
    300
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2003
    Location:
    Washington D.C.
    You can get quite a few coats and be versatile if you use ebay. I am a camel loving son of a billy goat. I have 2 camel blazers, a 3/4 length SB coat, and my prized DB cashmere full length overcoat. So I'd like to say Camel, but I don't know your style.

    So, I'd say start with a black SB notch lapel frock coat. Alot of people wear black topcoats because they are safe, but they do look good. What could set yours apart is fit.

    Speaking of fit, reffering back to a post J made a week or so ago... Does anyone know if you can bring in the waist on a DB overcoat without ruining it?

    Eric
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by