My First Suit, Bespoke. Need Advice

[Mblova]

So i am currently in New Delhi, India and i decided that the first suit of my existence will be a MTM/Bespoke suit. I have chosen Vaish at Rivoli to take care of the task. The reason i chose to go bespoke is because for the price, i would not get anything close to it in the US.

This is where i need your Gents help. I have never purchased a suit in my life, nor have i had one made. I have been doing some research on suits and the terms used and have come up with a list of what i would like out of my first suit.

I am 6'2 190lbs with a 34 inch waist. I do lift and workout so my shoulders are a bit broad and my chest is a bit out.

These are the criteria i have chosen for the suit. I would like this suit to be a business casual/verstile suit that i can use for work or interviews or even a formal event. The cloth is a Dark Navy Blue with stripes in its own color.

I am looking for a good fitting/not loose suit that has a "slick" european/italian style.

-Single breasted
-3 button
-Fake Lapel Button Hole
-Medium Waist supression
-Double vented
-2 outside pockets, flapped
-Lapel-Peaked?-Dunno what to do here
-Inner pockets-3, 1 on each breast, 1 on lower left
-Cuff Buttonholes- working or fake? Kissing or normal? 4
-Jacket Length-Normal to short
-Button Stance- No idea what this means. Would appreciate help
-Shoulder padding-Minimal, but a good crown.
-Sleeve tapering-Do i need this?
-Armholes- in between tight and normal/slightly raised
-Narrower lapel so that it does not cross the OUTSIDE breast pocket

PANTS
1 pair of pants. -Gents this is where i need some help
-Double pleated? single pleated? or Flat front?
-I am trying to go for a the slick, good fitting/not baggy European/Italian look for both the jacket AND pants.
-Pockets on the seam and straight NOT angeled.
-1 Rear pocket- right asscheek. Buttoned
-Buttons instead of zipper.
-1 watch pocket
-belt loops
-Pants, cuffed??? Would like it to break lightly or rest on the shoes.

I appreciate ALL the help. Please Critique this!

 

[maxnharry]

1. First-get two pairs of pants. You'll be happy that you did and essentially are getting yourself two suits for the price of one, since you'll often have your jacket off.

2. I like double pleats, but you can get one pair pleated and one pair flat-front (since you're buying two)

3. I think cuffed, but you need to think how it fits with the European look you're going for.

Everything else you've listed looks good for me. Also, don't cheap out on fabric. Try to get something that you think you'll like for a while.

 

[Mblova]

Originally Posted by maxnharry

1. First-get two pairs of pants. You'll be happy that you did and essentially are getting yourself two suits for the price of one, since you'll often have your jacket off.

2. I like double pleats, but you can get one pair pleated and one pair flat-front (since you're buying two)

3. I think cuffed, but you need to think how it fits with the European look you're going for.

Everything else you've listed looks good for me. Also, don't cheap out on fabric. Try to get something that you think you'll like for a while.


I was thinking about getting 2 pairs of pants. What I am most interested in is whether cuffed or not. I think if i get flat front then i will have to go with not cuffed.

 

[DocHolliday]

Originally Posted by Mblova

I was thinking about getting 2 pairs of pants. What I am most interested in is whether cuffed or not. I think if i get flat front then i will have to go with not cuffed.

This is purely personal preference. But if you get cuffs, you can always have them removed. If you go without, you can't add them later. (Personally, I go without.)

Similarly, make sure the sleeve lengths are the way you want them before the buttonholes are cut. Once in, altering the sleeves will be much more difficult.

As far as peaks or notch, I'd go with notch, as this is your first suit. Good to have a basic, conservative starter. Peaks are a sportier style, and you might not want to wear peaks to, say, a funeral.

As far as button stance, that refers to the placement of the buttons on the front of the suit. This tends to vary with the times. Right now, the trend is for higher buttons, such that the top button of a two-button suit will be placed very high on the coat. But it's much less of an issue if you go with a 3-button, as there's less room for dramatic variation.

A final thought: Be careful if you specify a "fake" lapel buttonhole. On good suits, the hole should be cut, though it doesn't really button.

 

[Mblova]

Doc, Thanks for the sound advice. I will also ask the advice of the Tailor when i visit him tomorrow.

 

[Mblova]

No love?

 

[CAshtead]

With regards to the suit jacket, remember, a gentleman always shows a bit of shirt cuff.

 

[tlagnhoj]

How was your experience? Would love to hear how the suit turned out...I'm thinking about going to Vaish myself.