My first suit - advice on cut

[pelagicus]

Synopsis: One suit - lean traditional or lean fashionable?

First-time suit buyer here. I'm just looking for advice on cut, for a one-suit man. My wedding is coming up this fall.

It's a relatively informal outdoor event, and before people point me towards morning dress or something, let me say that I'm set on a simple charcoal suit, and I think it will fit the day perfectly and be useful to me in the future. I'm someone who rarely needs to wear a suit, and as well as my wedding, I'll use it for the other more formal events in my rather informal life - interviews and things like that. I'll wear it with a white french cuff shirt, and a B/W wedding tie, and the groomsmen will wear dark suits that they already own.

I'm a skinny guy - 5'9", 155lb, trim, but also low drop (not 'athletic'). The best options for fits that I've found in my area (within a couple hour drive) and price range are the Fitzgerald from Brooks Brothers (on sale tomorrow), and a private label from a botique (Collier, Portland OR). BB did not have the Milano in my size in stock, so I was unable to try. Of the two, the Fitz leans traditional and the other leans contemporary in the details (ticket pocket, double vents, slightly shorter but still long enough).

The Fitzgertald jacket seemed a hair too long to me when viewed from the side - the salesman suggested that I might have had that impression due to a little looseness in the pant leg in the thigh area, which could be brought in. Do any other Fitzgerald owners have comments on the fit of the trousers, and is trimming the trouser legs usually successful alteration? (I ask, as a local alterationist recently f-ed up a pair of pants I tried to bring in).

Any advice on versatility, as far as the cut? Just choose what looks good to me? Thanks for the thoughts! (and yes, I've done lots of searching and reading here - appreciate all the great information).

 

[surf2japan]

I'm also looking to buy my first suits and was checking out BB. I'm a pretty skinny guy but I have broad shoulders, for me the Fitzgerald was okay but not great. I would highly suggest speaking with their master tailor about the suit you're looking at how it fits you rather than just the salesman, that definitely helped guide me. Also, the salespeople I spoke with didn't mention it to me but you can actually get the suiting essentials suits made in a milano cut (had to find this out online). I'm not sure what your price range is so maybe the SE suits are below what you are considering, but for my novice eyes they seem to be fairly nice with a good cut.

Other options are online MDM sites like Indochino or the Ludlow suits from J Crew. I haven't made my decision yet, but I would like to capitalize on tomorrows BB sale if it means investing in a higher-value suit than I would be able to afford otherwise (although the SE Milano wouldn't qualify for the sale according to the saleman I spoke with). Let us know what you end up going with.

 

[unbelragazzo]

I'd def recommend getting a SuitSupply suit sent to you (shipping is free both ways). They make the highest quality suits that I've seen in this price range, and some of their cuts are rather slim.

 

[pelagicus]

I appreciate the recommendation - I checked, and the suitsupply jacket sleeves are too long for me - I have somewhat shorter limbs and a longer torso. I wish they had an option to not get the working buttonholes.

There's the Benjamin Sartorial and the Kent Wang options too, but I'll miss the BB sale if I take the time to order those and try the fit - still considering it for sure.

 

[unbelragazzo]



I appreciate the recommendation - I checked, and the suitsupply jacket sleeves are too long for me - I have somewhat shorter limbs and a longer torso.  I wish they had an option to not get the working buttonholes.

 
There's the Benjamin Sartorial and the Kent Wang options too, but I'll miss the BB sale if I take the time to order those and try the fit - still considering it for sure.

You could probably shorten from the shoulder at an expense much less than the difference in price between a SS suit and a BB suit. BB is certainly a fine option for a OneSuit though.

 

[jamesny]

A more modern and tailored cut would suit you plus you get to wear it again for other events.

 

[surf2japan]

Suitsupply seems pretty nice, but I don't understand why they don't make slim-cut suits with a notch lapel. As far as I can tell their only slim fit is the Washington which only comes with a peak

 

[sullivan025]

Suitsuopply's really good at least for me I had a navy suit from them that still looks good after several months of almost regular use.

 

[New Shoes1]

Suit Supply is opening in Chicago at the end of June. Curious to see what all the fuss is about.

 

[chocsosa]

You could probably shorten from the shoulder at an expense much less than the difference in price between a SS suit and a BB suit. BB is certainly a fine option for a OneSuit though.

hey I think the Napoli cut is pretty slim too.. The only difference between the Washington and the Napoli is the Napoli is more forgiving in the shoulders very peeps with broader shoulders and chest.. I have an 8 inch drop and the Napoli fit nice and slim for me..

 

[pelagicus]

Thanks for the comments! About what would one generally expect to pay to shorten a sleeve from the shoulder?

Seems like people seem to be feeling that among good options, a more modern cut is the way to go?