My First MTM Sport Coat - Should/Can I Ask for a Remake?

[dieworkwear]

Some examples. Here's Jared Kusner's short coat. Bad, sad, and not good

Here's a more traditional length, which I think guys sometimes mistake for being fusty and old, but it looks more flattering and traditionally masculine. Note these people are of dramatically different heights, but the proportions mostly stay the same.

That said, the length of the coat has to work in concert with the other proportions of the jacket (say the style). But this is also to say that very slim jackets, which are designed to be short, look bad for reasons other their length

 

[FlyingHorker]

I would ask for it to be remade, but I would be careful about dictating too many things. Just give them some photos to illustrate what you would like to be done and allow them to figure out how to achieve those things. Hopefully this is a company that can see and fit you in person, and this isn't done online.

I would also reconsider getting this lengthened only 1.5". Hard to say without measuring, but I suspect you need more. I think guys are going to regret their short jackets in a couple of years, and the cut is often not very flattering on them. Generally speaking, you want your coat to bisect you halfway from your collar to the floor. That's often around the first thumb knuckle (meaning, not the one that connects to your hand, but the one closest to your thumbnail).

That said, I would also be prepared to walk away. On some level, the quality of the coat depends on the quality of the people who can deliver the right product. At some point, you may be wasting your time.

If the jacket is much longer, the balance could look completely off due to how open the quarters already are, so the entire pattern would have to be remade for OP.

So basically an entirely new jacket, not just a remake.

 

[krudsma]

Thank you @dieworkwear , I hold your advice in high regard. I've done a lot of hemming (ha!) and hawing about how long a jacket should be on me, since I'm tall hand have long spindly arms, but my torso is relatively normal - my height is all in my legs. But I think you're right, as I just measured and halved my body from heel to neck base, which would put the halfway mark right at my second knuckle. Because I have Photoshop and too much time on my hands, I've mocked this up. Is this looking correct per my insane body type?

 

[FlyingHorker]

A picture is worth a thousand words indeed.

I'd print the before/after picture and show the tailor to do exactly that.

Nice shirt collar by the way

 

[dieworkwear]

That's impressive Photoshop work! I'm not as handy but I've put the two photos side-by-side and brightened up the original image, so you can compare.

The second coat looks a lot better to me. When you're getting fitted, it's sometimes hard to make these determinations on the fly. I don't really like the "rule of thumb" rule, which is about where the coat hits your knuckle, but it's an easier one to use when getting fitted, rather than trying to judge whether the coat bisects you halfway from the collar to the floor. If it's at your knuckle, you can also get it adjusted a little shorter later, if you decide the coat is too long. As opposed to coats that are too far up the hand and can't be dropped down much more.

That said, I would give them this photo to give them an idea of what you would like to have done, but not give them specific measurements. Allow them to figure out how to achieve the general look you want. If it's made-to-measure, they will have to figure out if they can adjust their blocks so their patterns can work for you.

If I can take a guess at the maker, I think the company's name starts with D.

 

[thesilentist]

One thing I’d suggest to you is to have a very vocal discussion of what your fit preferences are and not assume the fitter/tailor will make you a garment that reflects your ideal fit.

While you’d hope something like jacket length would be brought up from day one, sometimes you get a fitter who’s inexperienced at probing the client for his preferences.

In regards to length, I use two methods when measuring clients in a MTM template jacket. The first is to compare the back length of the coat to the visible outseam of the trousers from the hem of the jacket on the outseam to the hem of the pant. Typically, these two measurements should be the same. You will obviously have some guys who are longer/shorter in the torso, but the two should be relatively close. Second, I see how much shorter/longer the jacket back hem is compared to the base of the seat. These two give me a good guideline of where the final jacket length should sit. I then discuss it with the client and ask for their input or preferences.

Some will want blazers and sportcoats shorter because they will wear them with denim. I may go 1-1.5cm shorter than what I’d do for a suit or tuxedo in that case. But it’s a conversation.

In your case the jacket is short. But I’d also look at the hip/seat of the coat as well. The center vent will often split open like that on guys with a prominent seat or hips. While you might be able to get away with it in a dual vent, it’s tough to get right in center vent. (I actually advise clients away from center vents for this reason) A longer jacket will help but you’ll still have vent issues unless the hips are addressed correctly.

 

[krudsma]

If I can take a guess at the maker, I think the company's name starts with D.

Nope! It is a local maker though, so I can thankfully be fitted in person.

Thank you all for the feedback, it's been super helpful. I'll report back with what they say.

If anyone wants me to photoshop their jackets to the proper length DM me. ?

 

[Bromley]

Curious to know if you'd requested a short jacket, or if your tailor decided on that length. I think if your tailor chose that length you should definitely (and politely) ask that it be remade. Would also be worth addressing the vent issue at that point (jacket looks too tight in the hips). Let them know you need room to shake that ass.

I'm usually reluctant to comment on and make suggestions on the fit of clothes based on pictures, but I think if your jacket were to be let out in the hips you would also benefit from some chest fullness and a touch more shoulder extension to balance things out.

 

[Big A]

Thank you @dieworkwear , I hold your advice in high regard. I've done a lot of hemming (ha!) and hawing about how long a jacket should be on me, since I'm tall hand have long spindly arms, but my torso is relatively normal - my height is all in my legs. But I think you're right, as I just measured and halved my body from heel to neck base, which would put the halfway mark right at my second knuckle. Because I have Photoshop and too much time on my hands, I've mocked this up. Is this looking correct per my insane body type?

This is 1000% better

 

[krudsma]

Curious to know if you'd requested a short jacket, or if your tailor decided on that length. I think if your tailor chose that length you should definitely (and politely) ask that it be remade. Would also be worth addressing the vent issue at that point (jacket looks too tight in the hips). Let them know you need room to shake that ass.

I'm usually reluctant to comment on and make suggestions on the fit of clothes based on pictures, but I think if your jacket were to be let out in the hips you would also benefit from some chest fullness and a touch more shoulder extension to balance things out.

Very good question; I think the blame lies a bit with both parties. When I was trying on the fitting jacket (a 36R I believe - I'm a non-existent 36L) I mentioned that I am ok with having the body a bit longer than is trendy. He said something to the effect of "That's fine, but I don't want to lengthen the body too much because your torso isn't that much longer than average." At this point I should have been more specific, or pointed to a spot on my thumb or something. I've commented a couple times throughout the alterations process that it feels pretty short to me, so I'm hoping this doesn't blindside them.

 

[Big A]

Very good question; I think the blame lies a bit with both parties. When I was trying on the fitting jacket (a 36R I believe - I'm a non-existent 36L) I mentioned that I am ok with having the body a bit longer than is trendy. He said something to the effect of "That's fine, but I don't want to lengthen the body too much because your torso isn't that much longer than average." At this point I should have been more specific, or pointed to a spot on my thumb or something. I've commented a couple times throughout the alterations process that it feels pretty short to me, so I'm hoping this doesn't blindside them.

I think they should understand especially if you show them your photo shopped picture. It seems to me that they were overly concerned about torso length versus overall balance. The jacket is clearly too short.

Also, not to overgeneralize, but I’ve found with small made to measure places a key motivation seems to be avoiding having to remake anything, but not to the extent that they will be forceful about it. In other words, anything you get will be greeted with “that looks great” even if it doesn’t. However, since the model is dependent on repeat business, when you point out something that is wrong the response is almost never heavy pushback - instead I’ve found I get a lot of furrowed brows, often followed by their agreement to do whatever I like in the name of exemplary customer service.

That’s really just a long-winded way of saying that you should definitely ask them to remake it, and I would bet they will agree to do so with very little argument

 

[krudsma]

Last thing. This is the jacket I was initially planning on using as a reference for length. This only goes down to my first thumb knuckle, but I've always considered it to be the proper length on me. If I plan to wear the MTM jacket mostly with jeans/5-pocket cords, should I opt for something closer to this length? Split the difference between my two thumb knuckles? Or stick with the photshopped length?

(excuse the sweatshirt, I just threw it on over what I wore today.)

 

[dieworkwear]

Putting my amazing Photoshop skills to use, where I cut-and-paste one photo next to the other:

I prefer the longer coat, personally. Even with jeans and five-pocket cords. The shorter coat looks like you're a very tall person who took the longest coat that was available to you. The longer coat looks like it was made for your figure. I would also say that, compared to more "traditional" jackets, the longer coat here is already a touch short (although I think it looks good here)

 

[krudsma]

That settles that, thanks dww. I suppose if I'm plunking down so much money on it, it should be built to weather the short jacket trend. I've sent off my remake request, fingers crossed. Thanks again for everyone's insight.

 

[rainmaker]

This is so, so helpful. I feel like I "get it" far more after seeing this post -- "it" being why a properly long enough jacket looks far better.

Some examples. Here's Jared Kusner's short coat. Bad, sad, and not good


View attachment 1343562


Here's a more traditional length, which I think guys sometimes mistake for being fusty and old, but it looks more flattering and traditionally masculine. Note these people are of dramatically different heights, but the proportions mostly stay the same.


View attachment 1343561

View attachment 1343563

View attachment 1343564

View attachment 1343565

View attachment 1343566

That said, the length of the coat has to work in concert with the other proportions of the jacket (say the style). But this is also to say that very slim jackets, which are designed to be short, look bad for reasons other their length