My First MTM Sport Coat - Should/Can I Ask for a Remake?

[krudsma]

Hello all,
Last November I had this tweed sportcoat made by a reputable MTM shop. While I'm thrilled with how all the details turned out, there are two major issues. Number one, the vent seems to kick open despite 2 rounds of alterations. The second and larger issue is that the body length just feels too short to wear comfortably. I've tried convincing myself that it's just a jacket I'll have to wear more casually (unbuttoned with rugby shirts and denim, eg.) but every time I go to put it on, it ends up going back in the closet. I'm heartbroken at the idea that my first big clothing purchase (about $1k all told) has netted me something that I can't bring myself to wear.
Can/Should I ask for a remake in this scenario? The last time I picked it up after alterations, it seemed like the vent issue was fixed, and I said I was really happy and thanked them for taking the time to get it right. Yet here we are a few months later and the jacket has rarely seen the light of day. Has the remake ship already sailed? If not, how should I word my request? I'm obviously new to the custom world so I would love a primer in proper etiquette before reaching out. Their customer service has been terrific thus far, and the issues are specific enough that I'm sure they can nail it on the second try.
Attached is a picture of the jacket before the alterations, to give you an idea of the length.
Any advice is appreciated.

 

[othertravel]

Yeah, looks a bit short. But can they even fix that?

 

[krudsma]

It's one of the few things that can't be altered at all - fixing it would require remaking it entirely, hence my question. I see people in the Tailoring Feedback thread talking about requesting remakes all the time, but this being my first MTM experience I want to know if A) it's appropriate in this scenario and B) how you go about broaching the subject with your maker.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I would tell them exactly what you've told us.

" Number one, the vent seems to kick open despite 2 rounds of alterations. The second and larger issue is that the body length just feels too short to wear comfortably. I've tried convincing myself that it's just a jacket I'll have to wear more casually (unbuttoned with rugby shirts and denim, eg.) but every time I go to put it on, it ends up going back in the closet. "

Then request a full remake and see what they say.

 

[othertravel]

Who’s the maker?

 

[dieworkwear]

I would ask for a remake, but a company that delivers a coat that short is also often the kind of company that favors a more contemporary style. Sometimes those companies aren't able to deliver a more classic cut.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

There’s really no particular etiquette. If you’re not happy with the product, then they should remake it.

Does it cover your backside? You look as though you have long arms. If it covers your bum then you should be fine. You could have it lengthened a bit more, though, so that the jacket is better balanced.

 

[wesleeatl]

Hello all,
Last November I had this tweed sportcoat made by a reputable MTM shop. While I'm thrilled with how all the details turned out, there are two major issues. Number one, the vent seems to kick open despite 2 rounds of alterations. The second and larger issue is that the body length just feels too short to wear comfortably. I've tried convincing myself that it's just a jacket I'll have to wear more casually (unbuttoned with rugby shirts and denim, eg.) but every time I go to put it on, it ends up going back in the closet. I'm heartbroken at the idea that my first big clothing purchase (about $1k all told) has netted me something that I can't bring myself to wear.
Can/Should I ask for a remake in this scenario? The last time I picked it up after alterations, it seemed like the vent issue was fixed, and I said I was really happy and thanked them for taking the time to get it right. Yet here we are a few months later and the jacket has rarely seen the light of day. Has the remake ship already sailed? If not, how should I word my request? I'm obviously new to the custom world so I would love a primer in proper etiquette before reaching out. Their customer service has been terrific thus far, and the issues are specific enough that I'm sure they can nail it on the second try.
Attached is a picture of the jacket before the alterations, to give you an idea of the length.
Any advice is appreciated.

I personally see nothing wrong with the cut. But it’s hard to say given the dark background.

 

[krudsma]

I personally see nothing wrong with the cut. But it’s hard to say given the dark background.

Yeah I'll add a better picture when I get home - that's the only one I had access to.

 

[FlyingHorker]

There’s really no particular etiquette. If you’re not happy with the product, then they should remake it.

Does it cover your backside? You look as though you have long arms. If it covers your bum then you should be fine. You could have it lengthened a bit more, though, so that the jacket is better balanced.

We also only have a side picture, need to see front and back

 

[dieworkwear]

Hard to say without a full-length photo, so you can see the relationship between the jacket and the rest of your outfit, but that coat to me looks like it's a good two or three inches too short.

 

[krudsma]

Thanks all for your input. I've attached some shots that better illustrate the issue. The jacket mostly covers my seat, but clearly it's too short. Sleeves could probably be a hair longer as well but they don't bother me.

If they're willing to remake it I plan to ask for the following:
- Body 1.5" longer (still shorter than a traditional cut, but not as extreme)
- Less waist suppression, which I'm hoping will mitigate the vent issue. The other option would be to do side vents since I've been blessed/cursed with what my girlfriend terms a "shelf" of a butt.

Curious to hear thoughts on those asks. This shop (whom I will name at a later date if we get the jacket right - I don't want to go around slandering them online) offers an insane degree of customization so I'm confident these two tweaks will be doable and will solve the issue.

 

[FlyingHorker]

It looks much better from the front. Additional 1.5" is on the right track

 

[dauster]

Thanks all for your input. I've attached some shots that better illustrate the issue. The jacket mostly covers my seat, but clearly it's too short. Sleeves could probably be a hair longer as well but they don't bother me.

If they're willing to remake it I plan to ask for the following:
- Body 1.5" longer (still shorter than a traditional cut, but not as extreme)
- Less waist suppression, which I'm hoping will mitigate the vent issue. The other option would be to do side vents since I've been blessed/cursed with what my girlfriend terms a "shelf" of a butt.

Curious to hear thoughts on those asks. This shop (whom I will name at a later date if we get the jacket right - I don't want to go around slandering them online) offers an insane degree of customization so I'm confident these two tweaks will be doable and will solve the issue.

Sorry to say, this definitely requires a remake and if your tailor doesn't agree based on these pics I would doubt his entire purpose as a tailor you seem quite tall and slim, maybe the MTM block pattern is not adjusted for your height. Definitely too short.

 

[dieworkwear]

I would ask for it to be remade, but I would be careful about dictating too many things. Just give them some photos to illustrate what you would like to be done and allow them to figure out how to achieve those things. Hopefully this is a company that can see and fit you in person, and this isn't done online.

I would also reconsider getting this lengthened only 1.5". Hard to say without measuring, but I suspect you need more. I think guys are going to regret their short jackets in a couple of years, and the cut is often not very flattering on them. Generally speaking, you want your coat to bisect you halfway from your collar to the floor. That's often around the first thumb knuckle (meaning, not the one that connects to your hand, but the one closest to your thumbnail).

That said, I would also be prepared to walk away. On some level, the quality of the coat depends on the quality of the people who can deliver the right product. At some point, you may be wasting your time.