My first jantzen shirt

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nova, May 8, 2004.

  1. nova

    nova Active Member

    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2004
    Hi everyone, I got my first shirt from Jantzen a couple of days ago. Please find below some pics and my measurements. After having washed and pressed the shirt, I think the shirt fits better than all the RTW shirts I have. I would be grateful, however, if you could post your comments. Specifically, I am unsure about: a)\tCollar Type: Does it look ok? b)\tShoulder Measurement: Should I add 2 cm (about 0.75 inches)? c)\tChest / Waist Measurements: Does it look too tight? d)\tSleeve length too short / Add 2 cm (about 0.75 inches)? I would appreciate your help very much. [​IMG] [​IMG] -------------------------------------------------- Shirt Length: 87 cm chest: 100 cm waist: 85 cm hip: 87 cm shoulder: 46 cm sleeve: 86.5 cm neck: 40 cm Wrist Size (No Allowance): 17 cm Special for Thicker Watch: Select One Shirt Fitting: Form (4"-6" Allowance) Share of Shoulder: Regular Shoulder Shade of Body: Normal Shade Material Item: Stripes Material Material Number: Number #119, Please Select Material Number Collar Style: Collar Style # 16A, (Big Spread with Higher Under Band) Collar Stay: Removable Collar Stay Interlining: Regular Tie space: 0" Back Height: 1 3/4" (High) stitch: 1/4" (Our Standard) Collar Point: 3 1/4" (Long) Color of Button Hole and Button Thread: Self Colour Cuff Style: French Cuff Style #4D (Round) Contract Collar: Self Collar & Cuff Cuff Height: 2 3/4" (Standard) Pocket Style : Select one Number of Pocket: No Pocket Front Placket: French Front with Stitching Width of Placket: 1 3/8 (Our Standard) Sleeve: Long Sleeve Select oner: Without Sleeves Slit Extra Buttons shirt tail: Square Tail with Vent Shoulder Pleat: Side Pleat Select one: With Split Yoke Gusset Triangle Color: Pink Button Seclections:: Thick Nature Mother of Pearl Button (3.55 mm) Thickness Monogram Style: Monogram Style #30 Monogram Placing: Inside the Yoke Monogram Color: Pink ------------------------------------------------
     
  2. gregory

    gregory Senior member

    Messages:
    552
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2004
    Hello nova: a) Collar Type: Does it look ok? It looks good to me. b) Shoulder Measurement: Should I add 2 cm (about 0.75 inches)? I think it looks fine as it is. c) Chest / Waist Measurements: Does it look too tight? You selected form fit for this shirt, and it looks good on you for casual purposes. For office wear, you might want to select medium (depending on your industry). d) Sleeve length too short / Add 2 cm (about 0.75 inches)? Possibly. Raise your hand and touch your face. Does the cuff move from your wrist? If yes, add 0.75 to 1 inch. BTW, it does not look like Stripe 119 to me. http://www.jantzentailor.com/stripe119.htm Nice shirt.. Is that your house? Nice french doors, too [​IMG]
     
  3. nova

    nova Active Member

    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2004
    @ gregory: Thank you very much for your helpful comments. Stripe #119 was out of stock - the material used is Stripe #273: http://www.jantzentailor.com/stripe273.htm Yes, it's my house - the french doors are in Switzerland though [​IMG]
     
  4. gregory

    gregory Senior member

    Messages:
    552
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2004
    I've been to Switzerland for the past three summers. The Swiss are among the friendliest, most polite, most helpful, most charming, most well-dressed and most beautiful people I've known.
     
  5. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

    Messages:
    4,458
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2003
    the shirt looks good to me although it does appear that the sleeves are a bit short. also notice that your right arm is longer than your left. you should give jantzen seperate measurements for each arm.

    the one thing that strikes me as odd is that you've given them a hip measurement of 87cm (34.25"). that's impossible. i think you misunderstood where to take this measurement. do not give them your pant size, but measure around your hip bone. from the photo it appears you have large hips and going by your chest measurement i would guess your hip measures at least 105cm if not more. isn't your shirt tight as hell at the bottom?
     
  6. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,802
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2003
    I like the fabric very much. The collar works well. I agree with the others that the sleeves are a bit short, and think that the roll of fabric on your upper chest indicates that the shoulders of the short are also a bit too narrow.
     
  7. coatandthai

    coatandthai Senior member

    Messages:
    272
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    May 7, 2004
    Looks like a very expensive shirt. A bit snug for me, but that is personal preference of course. Collar looks perfect for that size knot, though you might consider a regular (not high) collar because your neck looks regular so the collar is drooping and causing that ripple in the front. Shoulder might need a little bit more. All in all, very nice and sophisticated.
     
  8. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

    Messages:
    4,458
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2003
    good eye jcusey. i agree that roll of fabric is distracting, but i'm not sure it's due to the shoulder measurement.

    nova, you may want to e-mail the photo to ricky and see if this is caused by the chest measurement, shoulders, or if the shirt needs to be cut according to your posture.

    it's too bad alexander kabbaz doesn't post here any more.
     
  9. ernest

    ernest Senior member

    Messages:
    2,564
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2004
    Location:
    PARIS
    sleeves = too short of 1 inch (think about washings.)

    soulders = problem of horizontal tension
    solution = add a little on shoulders

    collar = size seems ok. I do not like very much the way it falls (not straight but curling a little)
     
  10. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

    Messages:
    14,914
    Likes Received:
    93
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2002
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    I don't think the shoulders should be made longer, but I don't know what the solution is to that roll on the chest. Sleeves are probably too short by 1" or so. Looks pretty good though.
     
  11. ernest

    ernest Senior member

    Messages:
    2,564
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2004
    Location:
    PARIS
    it is a problem of collar position and/or shoulders positions.

    It is difficult to find a solution = I had the same problem on a CUSTOM shirt. And it takes many times to solve the problem.

    A tailor said me it was coming of a wrong position of collar (too high) and shoulders.

    One easy solution = add on shoulders a little

    You should take a pictures collar up to show how it looks like under it, at the level of the first button under collar. The tension is here.
     
  12. nova

    nova Active Member

    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2004
    Gentleman,

    Thank you very much for your help.

    @matadorpoeta: I misunderstood the hip measurement - I measured again and it is 95cm - Thank you very much for your help.

    @jcusey/ernest/j: the roll of fabric is indeed distracting: I added 2cm to the shoulder measurement and hope this will solve the problem.

    @gregory: Thank you very much for your nice comments about the Swiss. Where have you been in Switzerland?

    ----------------------

    I just ordered another shirt with the proposed corrections:

    Shirt Length: 87 cm
    Chest: 100 cm
    Waist: 85 cm
    Hip: 95 cm
    Shoulder: 48 cm
    Sleeve: 87.5 cm, Long Sleeve
    Neck: 41 cm
    Height: 185 cm
    Weight: 80 kg
    Wrist Size ( No Allowance): 17 cm
    Special for Thicker Watch: Left Hand 1/4" Bigger
    Shirt Fitting: Form (4"-6" Allowance)
    Share of Shoulder: Regular Shoulder
    Shade of Body: Normal Shade
    Material Item: Checkers Material
    Material Number: Please Select Material Number, Number #367
    Collar Style: Collar Style # 16A, (Big Spread with Higher Under Band)
    Collar Stay: Removable Collar Stay
    Interlining: Regular
    Tie space: 0"
    Back Height: 1 3/4" (High)
    Stitching for Collar & Cuff: 1/4" (Our Standard)
    Collar Point: 3 1/4" (Long)
    Color of Button Hole and Button Thread: Self Colour
    Cuff Style: French Cuff Style #4D (Round)
    Contract Collar: Self Collar & Cuff
    Cuff Height: 3" (Long)
    Pocket Style : Select one
    Number of Pocket: No Pocket
    Front Placket: French Front with Stitching
    Width of Placket: 1 3/8 (Our Standard)
    Select oner: Without Sleeves Slit Extra Buttons
    shirt tail: Square Tail with Vent
    Shoulder Pleat: Side Pleat
    Select one: With Split Yoke
    Gusset Triangle Color: Dark Blue
    Button Seclections:: Thick Nature Mother of Pearl Button (3.55 mm) Thickness
    Monogram Style: Monogram Style #30
    Monogram Placing: Inside the Yoke
    Monogram Color: Dark Blue
    ----------------------
     
  13. ernest

    ernest Senior member

    Messages:
    2,564
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2004
    Location:
    PARIS
    you should increase "tie place" up to me
     
  14. nova

    nova Active Member

    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2004
    I am not sure if a spread collar should have a tie space -
    What do the others think?

    Thank you very much.
     
  15. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

    Messages:
    14,914
    Likes Received:
    93
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2002
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    No tie space.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by