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My First Indochino Suit - should I ask for remake?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by StormRider, Sep 5, 2012.

  1. StormRider

    StormRider Well-Known Member

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    Tailorgod, again excellent information, will take me a bit to digest, thanks.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2012
  2. tailorgod

    tailorgod Well-Known Member

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    Looking at the pictures JefferyD shows on his blog I'd say that their sleeves need more attention in the future.
    It appears that one of the (negative) hallmarks of low price RTW and MTM are poorly set in sleeves.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Svenn

    Svenn Well-Known Member

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    So a tailor just takes off the sleeve, rotates it, then attaches it back to the armscye? It's that simple?
     
  4. tailorgod

    tailorgod Well-Known Member

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    It's only simple when the sleeve does match the armhole in crown height and width. If that's not the case, a re-cut of the sleeve might be necessary.
    In any case you'd need a skilled and experienced tailor. If you want the shoulders to be taken in as well the whole operation might take up to 3 to 5 hours.
    When the shoulder becomes narrower the armhole becomes wider (it's like a circle, you increase the diameter), which means you have to also let out the sleeve seams!
    The rotation will throw a check out of it's matching position in the front, but with an already finished coat that's all that can be done.

    BTW. I found instructions from Indochino for being measured. Hilarious: "Go to your local tailor and get yourself measured"! :rotflmao: They apparently keep things very simple...
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2012
  5. StormRider

    StormRider Well-Known Member

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    Just to confirm, to fix the sleeves on my Indochino suit, I should ask Indochino to rotate the sleeves toward the back of the body, and to match the sleeve crown & size to the armhole.

    I suspect even if a tailor measured me, the suit would still be off because their measurement is very particular if you watch the video. Apparently, some people who got measured by the traveling tailor in Chicago had the suit that is too snug, I wonder what Indochino's instruction to the traveling tailors (local help mostly likely) are.

    Thanks again.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2012
  6. StormRider

    StormRider Well-Known Member

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    Just submitted the remake request. Here are my changes.

    Jacket
    Jacket/Shirt Length 27.75″ Edit
    Chest Size 40.5″ -1.5″
    Stomach Size 36.5″ -1″
    Jacket Hips 38.75″ -1″
    Shoulder Size 17.25″ -1″
    Sleeve Length 23.25″ -0.5″
    Bicep Size 14.5″ -1″
    Wrist Size 10.75″ Edit

    Pants
    Pants Length 39″ -0.5″
    Waist 32.5″ -0.5″
    Crotch 24″ Edit
    Pants Hips 38″ -0.5″
    Thigh Size 24.25″ Edit
    Knee Size 17″ Edit

    Shirts
    Shirt Neck 15″ -0.75″
    Jacket/Shirt Length 28.25″ -0.75″
    Chest Size 40.75″ -0.25″
    Stomach Size 36.5″ -0.5″
    Jacket Hips 38.75″ -0.5″
    Shoulder Size 17.25″ -1″
    Sleeve Length 23.75″ -0.25″
    Bicep Size 14.5″ -1.5″
    Wrist Size 8.75″ Edit

    Will share with you guys the result of the remake.
     
  7. Reevolving

    Reevolving Well-Known Member

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    San Fran
    I highly doubt Indochino will rotate sleeves.
     
  8. tailorgod

    tailorgod Well-Known Member

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    Most likely they won't. But who knows?:puzzled:

    Stormrider, how is the lining at the armholes sewn? Are the visible hand stitches on the edges (picture one), or is it plain and sewn to the armhole like in the second picture?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The reason I ask is that I have seen a review of an Indochino suit with decent sleeves, but the sleeves appear to be altered, since there were (wide apart) hand stitches at the armhole.
    Given their prices I'd assume that their armholes look similar to the one in picture 2.

    Did you send them the same pictures you posted here to give them a clue?
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2012
  9. StormRider

    StormRider Well-Known Member

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    To my untrained eyes, there are no hand stitching at the armholes. So it's more like picture #2.
    Yes, I I did send photos showing them the sleeve problem, mentioned they should rotate them toward the back, and to match the sleeve head & crown to the size of the armholes.
    Will share the results once I receive the remake.
     
  10. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    Rochester, NY
    

    The armholes on my suit were finished by hand. While I suppose it's possible they may have given mine some extra TLC, I really doubt it- chances are yours was done by hand as well but you need to be shown how to spot it.
     
  11. tailorgod

    tailorgod Well-Known Member

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    Doing the sleeve lining by hand seems quite strange for an otherwise very industrial product, especially given the Indochino price range.
    In the review (video) I saw the stitching was very visible due to the wide apart stitches. Perhaps StormRiders were done more neatly and less visible.
    If you pull at the lining you would see the hand stitches going a bit diagonal (this is a super macro picture, so in real life you may not spot the diagonal direction), while the machine seam will be completely hidden:

    [​IMG]

    Jeffery, were you able to spot what options they had besides the standard ones like lengths and widths? More something like forward shoulder bones, strong blades and such.
    Scabal has a set of options were the tailor can control where width is taken out or added, rather than just saying the final overall width. But, having such options is one thing, being able to spot where and whether or not they should be applied another.
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2012
  12. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    Not really. The level of construction is way higher than it used to be, and this is China, where hand work is not expensive.

    They have their own system completely unique to them, quite unlike anything we are used to seeing.
     
  13. tailorgod

    tailorgod Well-Known Member

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    Jeffery, what kind of advice would you give first time Indochino (or MTM in general) customers should they want to order a suit by going to a travelling tailor or a local shop?
    As you pointed out on your blog, the training of the staff members may not be on the same level, so how will an inexperienced customer know he gets the best that's possible (within certain limits, of course)?


    BTW, I had and have absolutely no intention to lecture anyone (and subsequently make the life of the real craftsmen in the pattern departments harder than it is already).
    My apologies for that.
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2012
  14. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    Indochino- I would ask to be seen by a member of the permanent staff.

    Local shop- recommendations from happy customers.

    As for getting technical, if you show the company a picture of a sleeve whose pitch is off, for example, they either know what to do to fix it or they don't. If they don't, no amount of explanations from us iTailors will change that.
     
  15. StormRider

    StormRider Well-Known Member

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    I couldn't see any hand stitching that were exposed, but I could be wrong. Will take some pictures of the armhole once I get home tonight.
     
  16. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    StormRider, do you happen to be a fan of the classic rock band, The Doors?
     
  17. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Well-Known Member

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    YES! You should ask for a remake. You'll never be able to look past those Herman Munster shoulders. You already mentioned most of the other issues. The suit is too full in the torso. The sleeves are too long and too full. The pants are WAAAAY too long. You have them pulled up to your boobs, and they're still too long. The pants also need to be slimmed down. Make sure that you send those pictures to Indochino when you ask for your remake. Let them see what they've done. I'm not a huge fan of this company because of the terrible experience that I had with the Traveling Tailor in Chicago, but eventually you can probably get a decent suit.
    His measurements were probably a little off, but Indochino added some to it as well. That's the problem with sending body measurements to MTM companies. It leaves too much to be interpretted. You don't really know what types of adjustments they'll make to translate your body measurements into the actual garment. IMO, companies that take garmet measurements are a lot more accurate.
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2012
  18. tailorgod

    tailorgod Well-Known Member

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    In any case, offering a remake or a refund is quite remarkable since it's not common practise.
    At least here in Germany several MTM companies and their respective staff often try every trick in the book to get the suit out of the door and money into the cash register.
     
  19. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Well-Known Member

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    This is good stuff, from top to bottom.
     
  20. StormRider

    StormRider Well-Known Member

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    VinnyMac, I agree that my measurements could be a bit off, but the slack Indochino added to the body measurement also contributed to the problem.

    I actually created a spreadsheet to track how much Indochino has added to my submitted measurements, as you can see, they pretty much left the pants alone, but added generously to the suit and shirt. The delta columns show what Indochino added to arrive at the eventual garment measurements.


    Measurement Submitted Jacket
    (actual)
    Jacket Delta Shirt
    (actual)
    Shirt Delta Pants
    (actual)
    Pants Delta
    Shirt Neck 14.5 15 0.5
    Jacket Length 27 27.75 0.75 28.35 1.35
    Chest Size 36 40.5 4.5 40.75 4.75
    Stomach Size 32.5 36.5 4 36.5 4
    Jacket Hips 34.75 38.75 4 38.75 4 38 3.25
    Shoulder Size 16.5 17.25 0.75 17.25 0.75
    Sleeve Length 22.5 23.25 0.75 23.75 1.25
    Bicep Size 11 14.5 3.5 14.5 3.5
    Wrist Size 6 10.75 4.75 8.75 2.75
    Pants Length 39 39 0
    Waist 32.5 32.5 0
    Crotch 24 24 0
    Thigh Size 20.75 24.25 3.5
    Knee Size 14 17 3
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2012

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