My first bespoke suit arrived (WW Chan) comments, questions, and pics

[jpe]

I had a few days in Hong Kong last month, so based largely on the recommendations from this board, I decided to have a go at a bespoke suit from WW Chan. I haven't needed to wear suits a lot in the past, but will need to do so more in the future. For reference, my other suits are from Barbera, Oxxford, Borrelli, and Isaia. My build is such that I can wear a 40R off the rack and have it look good with very few alterations. Combined with the fact that I did not pay more than $1000 for any of these, it has been hard to justify the need for bespoke.

I essentially had two full business days in Hong Kong. Knowing that I had limited time in HK, I contacting Chan ahead of time and asked if it would be possible to arrange multiple fittings in this short period, and have them finish the suit after my departure. They said no problem, and scheduled me for a 9am Monday morning appointment with Patrick. In the end, we were able to fit in three full fittings.

I knew that I wanted a 3-roll-2 side vent jacket with natural shoulders and double pleated, cuffed pants; essentially a duplicate of my favorite Barbera (by Attolini?) suit, which I wore to the initial fitting. Since they did not stock any H&S fabrics, I selected a 130s grey chalk-stripe from Scabal, which cost ~$1300USD. Patrick measured me, observed me wearing my own suit, and then held this one for reference purposes. He recommended to take length off of the sleeves and the overall jacket length (more than 1''). I thought this was reasonable, as Saks screwed up the sleeve length. For the jacket, he said it would improve the overall balance, and I figured I would give it a shot.

The results:




Observations/ Comments/ Questions:
-The fittings are critical. I cannot imagine doing this with only a set of measurements. The adjustments that seem small when a garment is only basted would simply become impossible later (tighten the armholes, lower the crotch in the pants, etc.).
-As has been noted by others Patrick is excellent to work with. I appreciate the fact that he does not try to push you into something, but is willing to express an opinion when it counts. This particularly frustrated me with AMHC and others where they basically refused to listen to me.

-Overall, I am very happy with the result. The fit of the pants is superb, probably amongst the best I have. The jacket I am largely happy with, but could probably use a few tweaks:
-I think the overall length and the length of the sleeves is just a bit too short. In turn, this causes the overall stance to be rather high. For example, the center button is 1'' higher than my other suit.
-The back could be cleaned up just a bit; this should be easy. Maybe also just a bit more shape through the body.
-During one of the fittings, Patrick said he was going to remove some of the shoulder padding. I could go for even less.
-Overall, the jacket just feels heavier than my other ones. Does this come from the canvas? Is it possible to request a lighter one?
-The collar/ lapel feels fantastic. However, some other things like the waistband on the pants feels kind of stiff, almost like it is fused to a rather stiff backing/ lining. Is this possible, and I can request otherwise?

Any other comments or suggestions are appreciated, as I plan to meet Patrick in SF this weekend to go over some improvements.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[zjpj83]

I agree - I think the sleeves and jacket are a tad short. Overall it looks really good though.

 

[LegB4Wicket]

Jpe,

Nice suit and the fabric looks very nice.

I concur the sleeves are about an inch to half-an-inch too short. It's difficult to say for sure as it looks like your one of your arms is about three inches longer than the other in the first photo.

From the back, I like the jacket's length but from the front it's too short. Not meaning to be rude, but did you put on some weight since the first or second fitting? That could have altered the jacket's balance.

If you look at the side photo, it seems there is two inches difference between the front of the jacket and the back.

Trying not to offend,

LBW

 

[whoopee]

I don't think the coat is too short, though the front/back balance is obviously off. The right sleeve is a 1/4-1/2" short. The left doesn't seem so bad, especially given the perspective of the camera. Sleeve pitch needs to be fixed.

The pictures are a bit misleading because of the angle, especially in the first. The buttoning point does seem high, but in real life, probably not as egregious as it seems. The front quarters should be a little more open, IMO.

You can request a lighter lining in the wasitband and lighter canvassing, too. The default, I think, is to a couple layers of horsehair.

I think the trousers could be altered to correct the slight dip in the back.

 

[kitonbrioni]

Good suit. The bespoke process seems somewhat error prone. However, I guess you can fix the issues with additional suits. The sleeves are shorter than the suit cognoscenti demand but it look fine to me. I guess the issue is how comfortable you are with them.

 

[kolecho]

Originally Posted by LegB4Wicket

Jpe,

Nice suit and the fabric looks very nice.

I concur the sleeves are about an inch to half-an-inch too short. It's difficult to say for sure as it looks like your one of your arms is about three inches longer than the other in the first photo.

From the back, I like the jacket's length but from the front it's too short. Not meaning to be rude, but did you put on some weight since the first or second fitting? That could have altered the jacket's balance.

If you look at the side photo, it seems there is two inches difference between the front of the jacket and the back.

Trying not to offend,

LBW


I am based in HK and have had a number of suits tailored with Chan. Chan house style leans towards shorter jackets. The back also tends to be longer than the front panels (contrary to say Flusser's recommendation to have the front panels longer than the back). The overall silhoutte reminds me of some old Apparel Arts illustrations that I saw in the thelondonlounge. The other default house trait is the somewhat narrow shoulders, fitted chest and back. This silhoutte suits people with broad shoulders and small hips IMHO. On the right body, this silhoutte looks very sharp.

Since I don't fall into that category, I am going to ask Patrick to cut my jackets longer, fuller and with broader shoulder lines in future commissions. I would like to get a good pattern of drape cut with high armholes as I prefer to have more freedom of movement. The trousers will need to be narrower as a result of lengthening the jacket.

Sorry to digress.

 

[chapunso]

I think it fits you perfectly, including the selleves showing cuff. the jacket is fine too. good job. Too much crap posted in this chat room and "too many experts"

 

[Drizabone]

The style nazis will have us in tears if we let them. Why then do we join this forum if not to listen and to learn? A little gentle correction to patent lapses in taste is OK but dismissive cant is unhelpful. After all - de gustibus non est disputandum.

 

[Mr. Checks]

Originally Posted by chapunso

I think it fits you perfectly, including the selleves showing cuff. the jacket is fine too. good job. Too much crap posted in this chat room and "too many experts"

I'm not sure what this means. To the newer people here, when someone posts pics and asks for input, there is a presumption they will get just that. This advice will help them avoid the same mistakes with their next order (or, just to air a disagreement about style, no one is pointing a gun to someone's head).

The sleeves are grossly short in the first pic, look close to okay in the third one.

 

[chorse123]

I think the button stance is a little high. Agree the sleeves could come down half an inch. I really think you need to shorten the trousers a little. Everything is high high high, and they are nearly pooling at your ankles.

 

[zjpj83]

I disagree, the trousers are fine if that's the kind of break he likes.

 

[Get Smart]

I think the length of jacket/sleeves look just fine. Altho I can see why most here think the sleeves are too short. Your right shoulder dips quite a bit compared to the left and maybe that's throwing something off on the sleeves.

If you're buttoning the middle button of your jacket, that is a hella high button stance, something that would work with a different cut but maybe not this one.

I'm curious if you like this better than your Barbera OTR suit and if you'd have another go with bespoke.

 

[Mr. Checks]

Originally Posted by Get Smart

I think the length of jacket/sleeves look just fine. Altho I can see why most here think the sleeves are too short. Your right shoulder dips quite a bit compared to the left and maybe that's throwing something off on the sleeves.

If you're buttoning the middle button of your jacket, that is a hella high button stance, something that would work with a different cut but maybe not this one.

I'm curious if you like this better than your Barbera OTR suit and if you'd have another go with bespoke.

In pic 1 it looks like he's showing two inches of sleeve. Does Thom Browne have that strong an influence here

 

[Get Smart]

Originally Posted by Mr. Checks

In pic 1 it looks like he's showing two inches of sleeve. Does Thom Browne have that strong an influence here

You think? to me it looks like about 1" which *in my book* is at the *just right* point. But I agree it's more than conventional practice.

at least there isn't 2" of sock showing at the hem.

 

[Garfieldthecat]

It looks like the curves on each front half of the jacket are shaped differently. Your left side curves away, but the right side is almost vertical.