My first (and probably last) MTM suit. Help with alterations.

[acecow]

I ordered an MTM suit from a certain online maker a few weeks ago. That was my first attempt at making an MTM jacket. So far I was very satisfied with custom shirts and trousers, but I had reasonably moderate expectations for a jacket.

I think the fit is passable, but far from being perfect or even acceptable at my level of obsessiveness. My main concern and complaint is the shoulder padding. It's excessive to say the least, especially after I specifically asked for minimal padding. I've reiterated that point many times during my correspondence with this company. I'm not that concerned about the closed quarters and I'm willing to eat the price of alterations. It's silly to expect a bespoke result from a first-time MTM.

Anyway, let me know what you guys think about the suit and also let me know if I'm planning the right alterations. I want to remove the padding from the shoulders, open the quarters and shorten the sleeves. Anything else I'm missing? Is it even worth it? Thank you!

 

[JDMills]

Doing your own MtM online is completely different from having a good tailor measuring and cutting for you. You develop a relationship with your tailor and they will do what you like. Overall it isn't bad the trousers look good, and judging by the first pic the sleeves dont need to come up all that much, it's the closed quarters that are really my only nitpick, and I like big cuffs but thats just me

Oh and what maker? Just curious! and btw BOSS peak lapels those babys be awesome

 

[landshark]

I would narrow the sleeves as well. Everything else aside, that suit looks great.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Originally Posted by landshark

I would narrow the sleeves as well. Everything else aside, that suit looks great.

what????
this suit is a mess!!!!

the chest is gaping
chest is a size too large

the lower fronts are overlapping
back is too full

the pants look ok

 

[Sleats]

The cure here is ....the fronts of the jacket need dropping. The lines show you that the jacket is lifting at the bottom due to your posture. See how the lines are not straight?.. lowering the fronts will help the chest issue and also open up the quarters

 

[Quadcammer]

like the pattern, but the sizing is a bit off as is noted above.

what type of shoes are those? They look a bit like AS premier Chathams but I'm not sure

 

[acecow]

Originally Posted by landshark

I would narrow the sleeves as well. Everything else aside, that suit looks great.

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

what????
this suit is a mess!!!!

the chest is gaping
chest is a size too large

the lower fronts are overlapping
back is too full

the pants look ok

Thanks, I'm somewhere between you guys on this. I don't think it's a complete mess, but it definitely needs lots of work as it fits me worse than most OTR. My main question was which alterations do you think I need to perform and is it even worth it?

I could toss the jacket, wear the pants and consider this MTM experiment a scientific failure.

Originally Posted by Sleats

The cure here is ....the fronts of the jacket need dropping. The lines show you that the jacket is lifting at the bottom due to your posture. See how the lines are not straight?.. lowering the fronts will help the chest issue and also open up the quarters

Would you mind elaborating on this a little? I don't quite get your point. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

like the pattern, but the sizing is a bit off as is noted above.

what type of shoes are those? They look a bit like AS premier Chathams but I'm not sure

Thanks, these are Grenson Rose collection.

 

[HomerJ]

The fronts of the jacket are not parallel to each other. Looks like the bottom button is almost meant to be buttoned. Really noticeable with that pattern..

 

[acecow]

Originally Posted by HomerJ

The fronts of the jacket are not parallel to each other. Looks like the bottom button is almost meant to be buttoned. Really noticeable with that pattern..

Thank you, that is true. I was thinking that maybe taking in the sides a little and recutting the quarters might help. Another thought was slightly different padding on both sides to compensate for my high right shoulder. The only problem is that I hardly want to spend lots of money altering this fused suit when OTR fits me as good or better.

 

[niidawg3]

Originally Posted by HomerJ

The fronts of the jacket are not parallel to each other. Looks like the bottom button is almost meant to be buttoned. Really noticeable with that pattern..

+1

Pros
nice fabric acecow, pants also look reasonably good.

Cons
Shoulders like you already noted
biggest problem though is the front. the windowpane is giving you an idea of the issue, which i think is probably caused by balance issues, both in the front and back.

it would almost require re-cutting the front to fix that problem, but i am no tailor. Hopefully Despos, jeff and others can provide more inside. if it had turned out right, it would have been a KILLER summer suit.

 

[HomerJ]

Originally Posted by acecow

Thank you, that is true. I was thinking that maybe taking in the sides a little and recutting the quarters might help. Another thought was slightly different padding on both sides to compensate for my high right shoulder. The only problem is that I hardly want to spend lots of money altering this fused suit when OTR fits me as good or better.
The front looks short, to me at least, in that side shot. The front of the jacket should usually be slightly longer than the back right? I assume that's what Sleats is referring to. Someone turn on the Despos signal. Manton wrote a good post about that, unfortunately Imageshack has replaced the illustration with a frog in an ice cube.

Originally Posted by Manton

Short fronts, by contrast, lift out and away from the bottoms. Worse, when seen from the front, the quarters cross over:

 

[acecow]

Originally Posted by niidawg3

+1 Pros nice fabric acecow, pants also look reasonably good. Cons Shoulders like you already noted biggest problem though is the front. the windowpane is giving you an idea of the issue, which i think is probably caused by balance issues, both in the front and back. it would almost require re-cutting the front to fix that problem, but i am no tailor. Hopefully Despos, jeff and others can provide more inside. if it had turned out right, it would have been a KILLER summer suit.
Thank you, I was hoping you'd comment.

Originally Posted by HomerJ

The front looks short, to me at least, in that side shot. The front of the jacket should usually be slightly longer than the back right? I assume that's what Sleats is referring to. Someone turn on the Despos signal. Manton wrote a good post about that, unfortunately Imageshack has eaten the pics.
I see it now, thanks a lot. That is really helpful. Is it possible to fix it? Do you, guys, think I could get away with about 100-150 in alterations and make it look good? With OTR, I'm pretty certain with w/e is going on, but this is a little too complicated for me. Any help is appreciated; I'd like to make it work.

 

[Shirtmaven]

the jacket is a lost cause
the fronts were cut incorrectly.

 

[acecow]

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

the jacket is a lost cause
the fronts were cut incorrectly.

That is rather unfortunate.

I was really looking forward to wearing this suit...

 

[jefferyd]

Regarding the shoulder issue, see here.