Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ernest, Jul 24, 2004.
How to you like the T&A tie? I was thinking about picking that same tie up on Ebay.
It's probably my most-worn tie of the bunch; I like it a lot. The starting price on that one is a good deal; they go for around $40 at Last Call.
Q. Â What goes with a permanent graduate student complexion?
A. Â IMHO, subdued colors, earth tones--khaki, navy, work shirt-blue--nothing loud that swamps the pallid brow. Â For the palefaced, none of those gorgeous, bright, supersaturated hues. Â In other words, Robert Lowell. Â Not Wallace Stevens.
(From time to time, of course, I've broken my own rules. Â And sure enough, before I knew it, the clothes were wearing me.)
Johnny, Thanks for your compliments. Â I picked up that tie at Brioni on Via Barberini in Rome about two years ago. Â Awesome store, btw. Â I only say that I wear it the least because I mostly wear ties for interviews. Â During interviews, I try to dress as drab as possible...likewise when I'm the new guy at an internship. Â For me, other than interviews, wearing a tie is seldom warranted, but usually at night. Â This shade of lavender seems best suited for a outdoor spring/summer day. Â But you're right, I should try to wear it more. Mike, your comment here:
had me laughing out loud. Â As I like to say it, lol, irl.
XMI has a permanent place in every Filene's Basement here in the DC area. Hundreds and hundreds of shirts, all for @$19.95 each or less. It might be decent quality for the money - I really don't know. But given the tons of "inexpensive" shirts XMI dumps on Filene's, I'd be surprised to find out that their ties were anything special.
I have an XMI (not Platinum) that's a nice red woven. It makes the most striking dimple of any tie I own. I think that XMI ties can be quite serviceable, if not spectacular. Steve B. is quite high on them in his book. I have an XMI shirt that I'm not real big on, though. I think Ike Behar is superior with both ties and shirts.
Lots of excellent ties gents...
***Edited so large jpg doesn't spill outside monitor--click thumbnail below to view @ full size***
Most Zegnas? Â That seems like a bit of a broad-brush...I wonder how many different makers there are for the Zegna label. Â All of the ties below are from Zegna...the orange herringbone and the brown w/ incised squares are about as soft & thick as they come. Â The cream tie is also very soft, just a little different in texture b/c it contains cotton. Â The burgundy grenadine on the right feels like coarse sandpaper, though--ironically, it's a high-end "Napoli Couture". Â That one is so coarse, I wonder if it's a fake...maybe someone here can comment. Â The interlining looks like thin canvas, but there's a self keeper with woven Zegna logo, plus it has a prominent slip-stitch I doubt a knock-off artist would bother to duplicate. Adam C.
I actually thought Zegna made ties not only for themselves but for others. I believe they make (made?) for Gucci. I always figured my Gucci pictured above was made by Zegna.
Well, it wasn't meant to be a knock on Zegna ties so much as an example that most people could recognize. Most Isaia, some Stefano Ricci, some Charvet, woven Hermes, etc., could be other examples. I guess I just don't get the appeal of that kind of weave with a lot of high end ties; you don't have to sacrifice softness for heft.
I like simple ties. These are my favorites. (L to R) Talbot BoC, Talbot BoC, RL, Gucci, Facconable, RLPL, RLPL
I agree on Behar shirts over XMI (currently- when I went to press with the book they were pretty equal). But I like XMI Platinum ties over Behar. And my current favorite ties are mostly Talbott. About 4 seasons ago I just started liking their designs better. I think that's when Talbott hired Haagen Peyser (SP?), formerly with Paul Stuart, and a real talent IMO.
As soon as I get a digital camera (ever the technological troglodyte) I will post. One of mine is the tie you see on the Talbott web site.
My favorites: From left to right - Ike Behar, Ike Behar, Ike Behar, Robert Talbott Estate, Bullock & Jones, Talbott Best of Class, Charles Hill, Talbot Best of Class, La Sartoria. From left to right - vintage Robert Talbott, Kiton, Kiton, Jay Kos, Wilkes Bashford, Loro Piana (rich chocolate brown with blue and cream stripes,) Bergdorf Goodman Private Label, Bergdorf Goodman Private Label (pics didn't bring out the Bergdorf ties - they are amazing in person,) Breuer, T&A.
I understand most of you folks will think them too garish but I think they look great and love that British Piccadilly look to 'em. They're a wonderful way to spice up a navy blue suit and off-white H&K shirt. From left to right: Gucci, Gucci, Zodiac (an Indian brand, bought in India known for their fine silk), and the last three are all Liberty of London.
Doctor Crane, I quite like the Liberty ties. One of my gripes with Liberty is that so many of them are USA made, which I know doesn't really matter but it removes some of the mental effect for me. Andrew, your top row of ties appeals to me more than the bottom. I recognize all of them as top notch, it's a personal taste thing. Mike C. the RLPL don't strike me as favorites, but I do like the others. aybojs, the Hermes and Brooks stand out to me. acole, love the H&K, the Cifonelli and the first Talbott from the left (the floral/vines one). TomW, the Sartoria and first Zegna from the left are great ties. Renault78law, very sharp. And ernest, I'm shocked by all those non-solid ties. Very nice, without question. I really like the striped ties in the bottom photo. And those are my entirely subjective views, worth what you paid for. (My apologies if I left anyone out--I didn't mean to!
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