My Carmina cordovan shoes arrived, but.....

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by kolecho, Sep 12, 2006.

  1. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    My stock answer for any nice shoe threads [​IMG]

    Anyway, I am currently working on getting some cordovan wholecuts that are little more pricey but pack a real wallop! I'll post pics when the deal is consumated and they arrive.
     
  2. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    Just to go off a little what diorshoe said... I was at Vass in Budapest several weeks ago trying on a U-last, which is an elongated last. Because I was sightseeing prior to stoppying by the store, I stupidly tried the shoes on wearing shorts and sneakers, but my girlfriend was carrying my dress socks in her purse. I intially ended up buying a size 44.5 just because they looked like they fit, i.e. less space for my index finger to fit when foot slid forward, although I felt that the sides of the shoe at the ball of my foot fit was quite snug. I figured they'd stretch out over time. After trying the shoes on again in my hotel room, and with some pants, I realized, it wasn't really comfortable having the sides being as snug as they were, and I wasn't convinced they would stretch out enough for them to be comfortable. I brought them back and the shop lady was happy to exchange them for 45s. Yes they were a little longer (i.e. I could fit my whole index finger when foot slid forward), but I realize that is the nature of the last and speaks to the amount of deadspace in the toebox, which really isn't that much. But they are much more comfortable. I realized that with all my shoes, whether they be sneakers or dress shoes, I can fit my index finger behind the heel when I push my foot forward, and that's just the way I like wearing my shoes. I guess the point is, it's about comfort at the proper point of your foot and whether you prefer having brand new shoes snug or a little looser.
     
  3. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    then if you think they are to wide what you want to do is meassure the 2 points where your balls of your feet go against you other shoe and do the same with your other and then compare the results
     
  4. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff grrrrrrrr!!

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    correct, as long as the ball of the foot naturally lands at the widest without any slipping and the shoe does not alter your gait,
    toebox length and slight variation in heel differential can be played with to your sense of comfort.


    alot of my shoes have a 1.5-1.75 inch differential between the end of my toes and the end of the toebox.
    if my shoes extend out 2 inches i start having problems with my gait.


    i think i repeated the above already,

    another thing,
    remember the actual back end of your heel bone (which sticks out a little further above than the footprint heel, should be the start or end of your measurement, NOT the footprint heel.
    if you are giving a measurement or a drawing of your foot to a bespoke maker do let him know how much further your actual heel bone sticks out; remember that the heel counter of the shoe is where the bone fills in, not the heel silouhuette.
    is this correct , bespoke patrons?
     
  5. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    When I am in Edward Greens, the fit and arch support is so good that I feel I am wearing paper shoes when I slip back into Zegna or Santoni. This must be one of the main reasons why EG continues to rule RTW shoes - fit.
     
  6. satanama

    satanama Active Member

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    Carmina Albadalejo will make any of their shoe models in cordoban leather is you want to... I keep going back to their double monks, I think they will be my first cordobans. BTW, thy've revamped their website carminashoemaker.com, the English version doesn't work but the Spanish one does. Just a few of theri shoes in there though...

    Iñaki
     
  7. Drinkwaters

    Drinkwaters Senior member

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    I would neither buy nor sell a shoe that the Bal closes all the way. This indicates two things, either the instep of your foot is to shallow for the shoe or the shoe is not the right size. A lesson to be learned is that not all(RTW) shoes are for everybody, so if it doesn't fit, move on.

    Best Regards,

    Gary
     
  8. RIDER

    RIDER Senior member

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    Great piece of advice!

    The picture/comments would indicate exactly this...your instep is too low for the last the shoe is made on, and you are sliding through the 'fit'. This is very common in Euro fittings where, by definition, the last features a higher cone (instep) than what is generally successful here in the US. We had the same problem - many of Martegani's lasts were useless here and what we sell here now have been reduced in this particular segment. Wide fittings were never a problem, but the overall 'average' was.
     
  9. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, this is good advice. The height of one's instep is an oft forgotten aspect of shoe fitting. I have a very high instep for instance, and it allows me to wear many size 13 medium shoes when the actual length and width of my foot calls for an 11 1/2 to 12 wide. (13 medium looks a whole lot better than a 11 1/2 wide, and is easier to find.) My high instep keeps my foot from sliding forward into the extra length of the shoe.
     
  10. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    Rider, AHarris, Gary:

    That is what EG told me in London. They said that if the length and width fits, and lacing closes up completely (on an oxford), it means that my instep is too low for the last. Fortunately for me, EG shoes don't give me that. They fit me well. My experience with Italian shoes also suggests that their lasts have higher instep than English shoes.

    Anyways, I hope to be in transit in Paris soon and will pop by Carmina to see if anything else fits. This is the only way to tell. Many thanks for the advice. I will keep the forum posted on my findings. What I have in hand from Carmina is superlative, at least in the same league as C&J Handgrade, fit aside.
     
  11. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    Happy ending to my Carmina shoes! These just arrived and they fit like gloves. Much like EG, the fit is snug and arch support is excellent. The colour is more brown than deep burgundy (from the earlier pair). This is a fantastic last. More elegant than C&J 337 IMO. This is my go-to maker for cordovans from now on.
     
  12. AlanC

    AlanC Minister of Trad

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    Gorgeous.

    Was it simply a matter of changing lasts, or did you change the size, too?
     
  13. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    Same last, same width, a half size down.
     
  14. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff grrrrrrrr!!

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    kole those are really sweet!! beautiful.
    i was interested in carmina in the past, but i am interested again. how much are their rtw calfskin shoes priced at in usd?
    those shoes look better than most cordovan i have seen
     
  15. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    Same last, same width, a half size down.
    so, what is your size (preferably with some brand/last examples), and what Carmina size did you get? I am seriously considering buying these myself.

    Absolutely beautiful shoes.
     

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