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My Balmoral Boots

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by AnGeLiCbOrIs, Mar 30, 2009.

  1. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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  2. AnGeLiCbOrIs

    AnGeLiCbOrIs Senior member

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    He was the Clifford in the name but he has not been associated with them for a few months.
     
  3. rohde88

    rohde88 Senior member

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    How does that work? He will let them keep his name?
     
  4. Asian Afro

    Asian Afro Senior member

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    I don't think he's happy about that situation at all.
     
  5. Asian Afro

    Asian Afro Senior member

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    Most of your questions are best directed at Cliff, as only he can answer them properly, but I'll give them a stab.

    1) Cliff's shoes have more toe room than they look.

    2) As you can see from this thread, the wait can vary between a few months to years. My first order took seven months, but the delay was due to his unsuccessful business venture.

    3) Using an existing pattern, his last, and his choice of leather (as in I only specified calf leather) the cost was around 375 pounds (350 pounds + postage). A new pattern costs an extra 30 pounds.

    4) On the left is an Edward Green Elmsley in 202 last, UK size 7; on the right is Cliff Roberts' in his round-toe last, also UK size 7. Roberts' has more toe room.
    [​IMG]

    FWIW, the EG outsole measures 11 1/8" x 4"; Roberts' outsole measures 11" x 3 3/4". The EG hurt my right little toe until broken in. Roberts' does not hurt.

    5) The leather on my Roberts is stiff, but no stiffer than Allen Edmonds', for example. It's definitely not as supple as EG's. I haven't worn my Roberts long enough to know how they wear. (I received them in January, which was deep winter. Just started wearing them last week.)

    6) I haven't given my Roberts a proper shine yet. (Yes, I know it's a crime.)

    7) I imagine he would replace the soles, but I don't know how much he charges.
     
  6. Michael Ay329

    Michael Ay329 Senior member

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    For an extra 60-100 pounds (depending on market price) Cliff got me better quality box calf leather. I noticed the difference in the way it felt and looked after some good shoe shines. Can't tell much about durability as I've had the 3 pairs of shoes for about a year.

    Do not hesitate to pay for better quality leather...especially for less than 100 pounds for calf leather
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2012
  7. minhthemaster

    minhthemaster Member

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    I'm kind of lost in this thread... how do I see what Cliff is offering/ order from him,and what is the price range?
     
  8. p.henrik

    p.henrik Senior member

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    About a year on, having moved overseas and almost forgotten about my order, I received an email from Cliff letting me know the shoes are done. Bespoke lasts from Springline (two fittings with Cliff), ordered more or less a copy of the G&G Adelaide

    [​IMG]

    Will only get to see them and try them on when I'm going back to London for Christmas, but judging from the pictures below Cliff sent me, I think they will be fine. Indoor lighting, Cliff says they are darker in reality. My initial fairly minor concerns seeing the pictures are 1. Color looks a little light and bland, had asked for more antiquing, but cliff assures me they are deeper red in natural light 2. Lace eyelets are straight and not widening down the shoe (minor issue) 3. Think I will have Springline make me a last more like the G&Gs square one, biting the ground. This one is based on my own pictures of toe shapes I liked, something between an oval and square toe. Not Cliff's fault.

    All in all, I think these will be good value for around GBP350 + Springline last (somewhere around 300 I recall). Keep in mind that Cliff is a shoemaker, not a businessman; I think he makes great shoes at great prices, but he is useless at estimating delivery times and lacks any staff to communicate with customers. Final verdict ones I have tried on the shoes.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    Cliff does seem to have an eccentric eye for toe caps, by most peoples' standards too small but yours appear too long if anything.

    I hope to have another pair of shoes from Cliff soon and will post picture when I receive them but do not hold your breath.
     
  10. p.henrik

    p.henrik Senior member

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    Seeing some earlier results, I think I did ask for a longer toe cap. The distance between the throat line broguing and the toe cap looks correct to me, but I agree the toe cap itself looks just a bit too long. I'm a size 43/UK8.5, so it's a pretty average sized shoe.
     
  11. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    I have just received the pair of shoes Cliff I mentioned above. They are a pair of Adelaide shoes in a beautiful ox-blood/espresso colour (v dark burgungy). I will post pictures as soon as I have taken photos along with the pair am wearing now which Cliff made for me in 2009. BTW Cliff seems to be making with a longer toe cap these days as you will see.
     
  12. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Conventional wisdom is the toe cap occupies about 2/3 of the length between vamp-point (where the vamp ends and the lacing begins) and the toe. Which is approximately the case in this particular shoe.

    But a 'straight' toe cap is not cut actually straight, but the top forms a radius of about 12", so the line is sloping down the sides of the foot ever so slightly. Here the straight line appears to be cut dead-straight, so the visual effect is the toe cap is rising towards the edge of the shoe.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    As promised here are some pictures of Cliff's latest shoes. Please excuse my poor photography but these are really stylish shoes for a wide foot.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    And here are some he made earlier (3 years wear)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Cliff is a craftsman and I have always found him true to his word even if sometimes things take their time.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    new ones look best.
     
  15. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    I think so too but the old ones have been well used and my photography skills are pretty poor. Cliff now seems to be making a toe cap more along the proportions that bengal stripe mentioned and it certainly looks better off the foot, having said that the small toe cap he used to make looks fine on the foot.
     
  16. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I must admit, I do have a penchant for smallish toe caps. They have been out of fashion for a number of years, but it appears the pendulum is swinging back.

    Here is an example by Aubercy, as featured on the ‘Claymoore’ blog
    http://claymoor.blogspot.ro/

    [​IMG]


    The shoes do break the 2/3 : 1/3 rule not by a small, but by a huge margin. Nevertheless the result is rather stunning.
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2012
  17. p.henrik

    p.henrik Senior member

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    Agree that the Abercies looks great, despite "off proportions". To me it comes down to the absolute length of the toe cap. The Aubercy looks good because the toe cap has a decent length; the longer vamp space doesn't disturb.

    The problem I have with culverwood's shoe is not so much the proportions, but the very short toe cap.

    [​IMG]

    Your new shoes are gorgeous though, culverwood. Beautiful color. I do hope natural light and a good 2h shine session will bring my shoes out from the dull flat color they seem to have on the pictures.
     
  18. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Yes, the cap is indeed oddly short. Reminds me of Barber Black's eccentric pairs.
     
  19. ian24

    ian24 New Member

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    Great work, are they ready yet ? Well done Cliff.
     
  20. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    I should have ordered from him when I was still in London, oh well..., so anyone commissioned anything new recently?
     

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