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My Adventures in (DIY) Shoemaking -- Part 23

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by shoefan, Apr 21, 2014.

  1. shoefan

    shoefan Senior Member

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    Here is the latest pair I've completed; these are on a pair of lasts that I made a couple of years ago for a friend of mine. A soft chisel toe. (For my previous pair, see here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/385445/my-adventures-in-diy-shoemaking-part-22)

    These shoes are made in Weinheimer/Freudenberg box calf, considered among the finest leathers for bespoke shoes. The design is an Adelaide oxford with a perforated cap toe, no medallion. The shoes have a beveled, fiddleback waist and a hand sewn outsole stitched at the West End standard of 10 spi. Also, per the London bespoke tradition, the vamp continues under the toe cap, so there are two layers of upper leather at the toe; this makes it more challenging to last the toe, since you need to get both layers of leather flat around the last. Truth be told, the toe at the feather line/welt line shows a very tiny bit of wrinkling. The double layer of upper leather also makes it difficult to achieve a really crisp line on the chisel toe; I would like a bit more definition to the chisel toe on this pair. I am also not happy with the finishing of the heels, and the shape and finishing of the outsole waist is not the quality I would like to achieve. Aside from those problems, I am pretty happy with the results.

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  2. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Stylish Dinosaur

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