My adventures in (DIY) shoemaking -- part 15

[shoefan]

Here is the latest pair of shoes off my soft chisel toe lasts. These oxfords feature a 'false' toe cap in a tan, crust leather. The outsoles were done with a beveled waist and a plain, rather than fiddleback, sole. The soles were hand stitched at 10 stitches per inch, standard West-End London stitch density.

I am pretty pleased with the way they turned out, though the sole and heel edges are far from perfect.

(for my previous pair and some in-process pictures of this pair, see here: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=238541)

 

[Manton]

Beautiful shape but they styling looks "off" to me with no broguing on the vamp/quarter seam.

 

[Fishball]

Shoefan,

I think the shoes need a bit more polish.
You pace getting faster and faster now.
You made your own upper this time, right?

 

[mktitsworth]

So when you planning to start giving SF the hook up? We'll all be able to walk around and have everyone go "Where did you get those shoes?" to which we'll reply "Shoefan."

 

[Slewfoot]

Fun stuff! The design and shape are unique. The only thing that looks a bit off to my eye is the medallion which doesn't seem fully balanced.

 

[emptym]

Very nice. Your perseverance is paying off. These are your best shoes so far, imo.

 

[ajmanouk]

Gorgeous as always.

 

[shoefan]

Originally Posted by Manton

Beautiful shape but they styling looks "off" to me with no broguing on the vamp/quarter seam.
Thanks. I actually quite like this more understated style, but of course beauty is in the eye of the beholder. You may also notice that I try to change things up on each pair I make, as I am experimenting and trying to learn new things as I go along.

Originally Posted by Fishball

Shoefan,

I think the shoes need a bit more polish.
You pace getting faster and faster now.
You made your own upper this time, right?
Yes, I do need to polish the shoes; I pulled them off the last and was anxious to try them out and photograph them, but I need to get them shined up.

Yes, I did make these uppers. The only ones I've not made were the black half-brogues in my previous post.

Originally Posted by mktitsworth

So when you planning to start giving SF the hook up? We'll all be able to walk around and have everyone go "Where did you get those shoes?" to which we'll reply "Shoefan."
One of these days.... I am off to Budapest in a couple of weeks to spend some time with Marcell, so I am hopeful with his help I can take things up a notch in terms of quality, refinement, and speed.

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

Fun stuff! The design and shape are unique. The only thing that looks a bit off to my eye is the medallion which doesn't seem fully balanced.
I like the medallion, but it is a bit larger than many one sees, so I can understand that perhaps some wouldn't favor it. The medallion is symmetrical if that is what you're referring to, but I'm guessing it is more the size and perhaps the shape. Also, the medallion isn't absolutely perfectly centered, so perhaps it's that....

 

[LanceW]

I like this but I agree with Manton. The brogue cap and medallion give a front heavy look.

 

[srivats]

Very nice shape to the last, shoefan. The shoes looks great.

Any reason(s) why you chose a high heel for this one?

 

[shoefan]

Originally Posted by LanceW

I like this but I agree with Manton. The brogue cap and medallion give a front heavy look.

I don't think I would initially have agreed with you, but when I look at the first picture, I can see what you mean. From a side view, the combination of the brogueing and the medallion does look like alot of perforation at the front of the shoe. When I look at the shoe from the front, I think it still looks fine, and the picture exaggerates the obviousness of the medallion, but I see your point.

Originally Posted by srivats

Very nice shape to the last, shoefan. The shoes looks great.

Any reason(s) why you chose a high heel for this one?
Well, this heel is a standard 7/8" heel, which is what this last calls for (each last is designed for a specific heel height). I think the typical London bespoke shoe has a higher heel than virtually all rtw shoes; IIRC, Lobb St James may actually have a 1" heel height, and that is measured from the bottom of the outsole at the heel. Add in another 1/4" for the outsole/rand, and the apparent heel height is more like 1 1/4". I think I could have trimmed the top of the heel at the back to make the heels appear a bit less high -- one of the refinements I need to figure out.

 

[srivats]

Originally Posted by shoefan

Each last is designed for a specific heel height.
<snip>

Can you explain this in more detail, shoefan? I never understood the relationship between heel hight and last design.

 

[rebel222]

Originally Posted by srivats

Can you explain this in more detail, shoefan? I never understood the relationship between heel hight and last design.
I think you always want the ball of your foot to sit flat on the ground. I think an image of a women's last explains it best:

 

[srivats]

Originally Posted by rebel222

I think you always want the ball of your foot to sit flat on the ground. I think an image of a women's last explains it best:

Gotcha ... I think I understand, but we'll wait for the experts to chime in

 

[shoefan]

I would imagine that you would have a bit of leeway on heel height before you end up with a shoe that can damage the foot, but I'm not sure how much. I really don't think you want your foot to be landing behind the ball, which is what lowering the heel would cause, because the balls of your foot are what are designed, along with the heel, to absorb the shock of impact and propel the body forward. Landing behind the ball would seem to place impact/stress where the foot is not designed to absorb it. Raising the heel would move the impact point forward, which might feel weird but would probably have fewer negative consequences, but obviously hitting at the ball is optimal. The specific results of moving the heel down/up would also be affected by the shape of the bottom of the last behind and in front of the joint.

Here is a profile pic of a last blank; I've faintly marked the joint location so you can see that the last rests on the proper location. The cork at the back of the shoe is 7/8" high. In a finished shoe, the entire shoe is shifted straight up by the thickness of the outsole and welt, so the apparent height of the heel is the 7/8" plus the thickness of the outsole/welt -- typically about 1/4" -- so the heel is actually 1 1/8" from the ground to the top of the heel.