1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

My adventures in (DIY) shoemaking -- part 14

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by shoefan, Apr 19, 2011.

  1. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

    Messages:
    853
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2003
    Here, hot off the lasts, are my latest pair of shoes. These are a pair of black half brogues; unlike my other postings, these uppers were 'closed' -- i.e. sewn -- by a London closer whom I observed, rather than by me. The uppers were originally made for a different pair of lasts than what I actually used, so the fit was not absolutely perfect for the last - it was a bit difficult to line the toe medallion up with the center of the toe, and one toe cap is a bit longer than the other, due to differing lengths of the lasts.

    The shoes were made on my 'narrow round toe' last which I made myself, and they have a beveled waist but no fiddleback in the sole. The outsoles were hand stitched at 12 stitches per inch.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. PorterInjax

    PorterInjax Senior member

    Messages:
    1,137
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2010
    I love seeing these posts Quite impressive and thank you for sharing
     
  3. Oyaji

    Oyaji Senior member

    Messages:
    180
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2009
    Once more, impressive!
    Are you getting faster ?(excluding the fact that you outsourced upper stitching this time)
    How long did it take you?
     
  4. GBear

    GBear Senior member

    Messages:
    1,614
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2010
    Location:
    LA, CA
    I love your threads...
     
  5. pvrhye

    pvrhye Senior member

    Messages:
    1,757
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2010
    Location:
    화곡동 - Seoul
    Every time I hear about a shoemaker I always hear about some kinda lengthy apprenticeship under a master. What you've managed to hammer out yourself is nothing short of shocking.
     
  6. acecow

    acecow Senior member

    Messages:
    4,135
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2009
    Location:
    Not Manhattan, unfortunately
  7. Aldehyde

    Aldehyde Senior member

    Messages:
    164
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2010
    Damn man, that is some quality stuff.

    I'd love to see in-process pictures. Thanks!
     
  8. boston_bred

    boston_bred Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    50
    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2011
    those look pretty amazing. I would also love to see process pics.
     
  9. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    5,778
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    The uppers were originally made for a different pair of lasts than what I actually used, so the fit was not absolutely perfect for the last - it was a bit difficult to line the toe medallion up with the center of the toe, and one toe cap is a bit longer than the other, due to differing lengths of the lasts.


    For shoes that suck, these look awfully good. Nice work.
     
  10. bigbucky

    bigbucky Senior member

    Messages:
    162
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2010
    Location:
    E.LJ
    as always, amazing.

    I second request for action shots
     
  11. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

    Messages:
    6,501
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Location:
    The Arena - Centerfield
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    +1 Beautiful work!
     
  12. ianGP

    ianGP Senior member

    Messages:
    794
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    +1 for action shots! Are you selling these? [​IMG] I'm always up for something new and different (as long as it's a 6.5-7D)
     
  13. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

    Messages:
    853
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2003
    Once more, impressive!
    Are you getting faster ?(excluding the fact that you outsourced upper stitching this time)
    How long did it take you?


    Thanks for the compliment.

    I am getting faster, though all things are relative. These took me about 45 hours -- I thought I was going to come in well below that, but a couple of things took longer than they usually do, and the process of building the heels and doing the edge and bottom finishing seemed to take forever. For a point of reference, the 'maker' I observed in London takes perhaps 20 hours, and a really fast maker can do it in as few as 15 hours. Of course, they also achieve a higher standard of finished product.
     
  14. kirbya

    kirbya Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    648
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2006
    Location:
    Dallas, Texas
    Shoefan -

    Wow. Incredible. How much time is it taking you to make a single pair of shoes?

    I have a friend that was a cobbler in Cuba. He's looking to get back into the hobby of making shoes, but has had a lot of trouble finding lasts. Where did you get yours? I'd like to get him a pair as a gift.

    Cheers,
    Kirby
     
  15. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

    Messages:
    853
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2003
    those look pretty amazing. I would also love to see process pics.

    Thanks. I will post a few in process pics in the next couple of days, and then I will put together a photobucket album to hold more pics.

    Shoefan -

    Wow. Incredible. How much time is it taking you to make a single pair of shoes?

    I have a friend that was a cobbler in Cuba. He's looking to get back into the hobby of making shoes, but has had a lot of trouble finding lasts. Where did you get yours? I'd like to get him a pair as a gift.

    Cheers,
    Kirby


    About 45 hours. I made these lasts myself, from some blanks (oversized forms) that I received from a lastmaking friend. I will send you a PM later today to discuss some options.


    Here is an in-process pic of my next pair; these have been lasted but not sewn to the welt or anything else. You can see the lasting nails around the toe. This pair of uppers I made -- pattern, clicking, brogueing, sewing, etc. They have a faux toe cap, which I did in order to keep the toe very much in keeping with the last shape -- adding a real cap requires either a second layer of leather or skiving of the overlap, which I find difficult to execute with sufficient skill to make the overlap disappear completely.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

    Messages:
    9,672
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2008
    Location:
    Knee deep in curds
    Continually one of the best posts on SF. I'm always impressed by your work and progression from #1 to now.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

    Messages:
    2,834
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2011
    Location:
    Dallas, TX
    These look amazing. I applaud you, good sir.
     
  18. srivats

    srivats Senior member

    Messages:
    3,907
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2008
    You never cease to amaze me with your creations, Shoefan! Great work as always.
     
  19. ajmanouk

    ajmanouk Senior member

    Messages:
    401
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2010
    Spectacular work as always!
     
  20. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

    Messages:
    853
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2003
    In response to request for some 'action' pics.


    Here are some pictures of the preparation of the outsole for a beveled waist, and then the preparation of the channel on the bottom of the shoe.

    Marking the waist location, which must be thinned for a beveled waist.

    [​IMG]


    The outsole after it has been thinned:

    [​IMG]

    The outsole from a side angle showing the thinned area -- about 1/2 thickness vs the rest of the sole:

    [​IMG]

    And here is the outsole applied, trimmed, and marked along the edge where I will cut the channel:

    [​IMG]

    The channel cut, opened, and scraped to provide room for burying the thread, and the tools for doing the scraping:

    [​IMG]

    And a closeup of the channel. When doing the sewing, you sew from the top down through the welt and the outsole, and you have to hit this channel every time. Not so easy!

    [​IMG]
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by