My adventures in (DIY) shoemaking -- part 14

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by shoefan, Apr 19, 2011.

  1. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

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    Here, hot off the lasts, are my latest pair of shoes. These are a pair of black half brogues; unlike my other postings, these uppers were 'closed' -- i.e. sewn -- by a London closer whom I observed, rather than by me. The uppers were originally made for a different pair of lasts than what I actually used, so the fit was not absolutely perfect for the last - it was a bit difficult to line the toe medallion up with the center of the toe, and one toe cap is a bit longer than the other, due to differing lengths of the lasts.

    The shoes were made on my 'narrow round toe' last which I made myself, and they have a beveled waist but no fiddleback in the sole. The outsoles were hand stitched at 12 stitches per inch.


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  2. PorterInjax

    PorterInjax Senior member

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    I love seeing these posts Quite impressive and thank you for sharing
     


  3. Oyaji

    Oyaji Senior member

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    Once more, impressive!
    Are you getting faster ?(excluding the fact that you outsourced upper stitching this time)
    How long did it take you?
     


  4. GBear

    GBear Senior member

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    I love your threads...
     


  5. pvrhye

    pvrhye Senior member

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    Every time I hear about a shoemaker I always hear about some kinda lengthy apprenticeship under a master. What you've managed to hammer out yourself is nothing short of shocking.
     


  6. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    Not Manhattan, unfortunately


  7. Aldehyde

    Aldehyde Senior member

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    Damn man, that is some quality stuff.

    I'd love to see in-process pictures. Thanks!
     


  8. boston_bred

    boston_bred Well-Known Member

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    those look pretty amazing. I would also love to see process pics.
     


  9. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The uppers were originally made for a different pair of lasts than what I actually used, so the fit was not absolutely perfect for the last - it was a bit difficult to line the toe medallion up with the center of the toe, and one toe cap is a bit longer than the other, due to differing lengths of the lasts.


    For shoes that suck, these look awfully good. Nice work.
     


  10. bigbucky

    bigbucky Senior member

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    as always, amazing.

    I second request for action shots
     


  11. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    +1 Beautiful work!
     


  12. ianGP

    ianGP Senior member

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    +1 for action shots! Are you selling these? [​IMG] I'm always up for something new and different (as long as it's a 6.5-7D)
     


  13. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

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    Once more, impressive!
    Are you getting faster ?(excluding the fact that you outsourced upper stitching this time)
    How long did it take you?


    Thanks for the compliment.

    I am getting faster, though all things are relative. These took me about 45 hours -- I thought I was going to come in well below that, but a couple of things took longer than they usually do, and the process of building the heels and doing the edge and bottom finishing seemed to take forever. For a point of reference, the 'maker' I observed in London takes perhaps 20 hours, and a really fast maker can do it in as few as 15 hours. Of course, they also achieve a higher standard of finished product.
     


  14. kirbya

    kirbya Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Shoefan -

    Wow. Incredible. How much time is it taking you to make a single pair of shoes?

    I have a friend that was a cobbler in Cuba. He's looking to get back into the hobby of making shoes, but has had a lot of trouble finding lasts. Where did you get yours? I'd like to get him a pair as a gift.

    Cheers,
    Kirby
     


  15. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

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    those look pretty amazing. I would also love to see process pics.

    Thanks. I will post a few in process pics in the next couple of days, and then I will put together a photobucket album to hold more pics.

    Shoefan -

    Wow. Incredible. How much time is it taking you to make a single pair of shoes?

    I have a friend that was a cobbler in Cuba. He's looking to get back into the hobby of making shoes, but has had a lot of trouble finding lasts. Where did you get yours? I'd like to get him a pair as a gift.

    Cheers,
    Kirby


    About 45 hours. I made these lasts myself, from some blanks (oversized forms) that I received from a lastmaking friend. I will send you a PM later today to discuss some options.


    Here is an in-process pic of my next pair; these have been lasted but not sewn to the welt or anything else. You can see the lasting nails around the toe. This pair of uppers I made -- pattern, clicking, brogueing, sewing, etc. They have a faux toe cap, which I did in order to keep the toe very much in keeping with the last shape -- adding a real cap requires either a second layer of leather or skiving of the overlap, which I find difficult to execute with sufficient skill to make the overlap disappear completely.

    [​IMG]
     


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