Must own ties for a beginner

[JJ Katz]

Would it not depend on what else the fellow intends to wear?

The discerning crowd here at SF tends to wear a lot of interesting separate jackets and textured suits, etc. so the solid or near-solid ties are most versatile. For someone who, conversely, wears ties mostly with conservative suits they might be better off with something more colorful, after the first 1-2 solids, no?

My two lists:

1) For the young graduate who wears ties with his obligatory work suits (I'll assume dark grey and navy).

a, b small print on silk , one dark green and one maroon background
c a dark (black, dark brown or navy) solid silk for the most sombre outfits
d, e a couple of stripe (repp) ties

2) For the bloke who's decided to start dressing better and will be wearing a mix of suits, separates, etc.

a navy or black knit tie
b maroon tie (knit pin dot or small print on silk)
c dark green tie (solid or small print)
d a pin-dot navy garza fina (goes with everything without being too sombre)
e a striped tie in your school colours because 'spirit'.

 

[Jaggery]

Solid textured and pindot ties in dark colors seem to be a common theme here, suggesting that they work across a wide range of wardrobes, cultures, social settings, and differences in complexion and personal style. I'm a little surprised though by the prominence of rep/repp (ribbed) stripes among the recommendations. For me, these bring to mind a more specific "trad" look inspired by regimental associations, British school uniforms, and classic Ivy League style. Beyond solids, I would lean toward repeating patterns (a.k.a. Macclesfield/neat/foulard)--maybe a subdued brown for steady work days and a bright yellow or pink to add a splash of color.

If 4 of the 5 ties are solids and neats, say 3 dark and 1 bright, that leaves 1 space in the roster for individual flair. Could be a rep, or a striped grenadine if you want to put a twist on stripes, or an eye-catching print if you want to make a statement, or something geared to formal ceremonies if you expect to attend a lot of them.

 

[Kind-hearted Rascal]

If you could only recommend 5 ties to someone just starting their classic menswear wardrobe what would they be and why?

Others summed it up nicely, so just FYI GG's first 12 ties:

 

[8675309]

For versatility, consider the following. I recall a similar list on Drake's editorial from a few years back.

1. Navy Grenadine
2. Bottle Green Silk Knit
3. Mid-Grey Cashmere
4. Macclesfield neat, navy or burgundy
5. Repp stripe, navy or burgundy or bottle green, pending your remaining tie wardrobe.

for an alternative opinion, consider:

 

[Sam Hober]

"I would personally avoid running through a list of "must haves." There are some things that are genuinely useful, but the ties you'll like wearing the most are simply going to be the ones that you love. IMO, it's better to develop a sense of personal taste, rather than having a wardrobe full of "must haves" and "essentials." Especially for a beginner, since so much of your wardrobe should be reasonably conservative anyway (in terms of cut and styling), let your tie be the one area where you can inject a bit of personal taste."

To start I agree with the above words by Die Work Wear.

Next, when I am asked for a basic list I will normally consider the ties are for someone just beginning to wear ties for daily life.

I love grenadines and we work with all 4 weaves but I won't suggest more than one grenadine as they are a loose weave can at times get snags. I picture the poster as wanting the freedom to travel both for business and pleasure. So I would lean toward reppe and twill weaves mostly in dark colors and conservative patterns.

One complex woven tie with maybe a bit of gold or some other bright color would be as far as I would go for something different.

Later black ties or something different...

When you go for an interview a classic dark tie works well but it should be something that you like as then you will feel comfortable and look your best.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

I'd go with five knits: light blue, navy, black, burgundy, and green.

This is almost me these days too. I'm not sure it's about basics though, more like the '5 ties for someone who's gone through all this and come out the other side'.

I tend to wear only grenadines and knits (both wool and silk) these days when I wear ties, except in summer when I have a couple of very non-traditional cotton Post-Imperial numbers. I still have quite a few more ties than this, but really, I don't wear them very much.

 

[mitsein]

navy plain; burgundy grenadine; black tussah; a houndstooth; an ancient madder.

 

[BXpress]

When i started out i made lists like these too. They can get very long. Ties are a subject where you can easily fall into a collecting addiction.

I have yet to buy a single Grenadine tie. I find myself wearing Medallion Madder prints 95% of the time, because i love them most and why not. My most sober tie is a Navy Polka dot from Drake's.

 

[Mr. Wonderbeak]

Similar to the sentiment expressed by BXpress above, I believe lists to be a bit dangerous. For me, it has resulted in a number of “essentials” that I do not use and have subsequently put in hibernation, sold, and or thrown out. I agree, having these lists of essential items can assist in the beginning, but I don’t think they need to be treated as more of a rough guideline and I believe you can use the information within to make informed and deliberate choices based on your own tastes using what is provided in these lists of essentials. There are too many websites/articles/blogs/Pinterest posts/YouTube videos claiming to show the most beneficial list of “essentials”.

Most importantly you must consider your own style tastes (assuming you are not a troll) and your need for these items and how they will be used. From your user name, it seems you may be in finance and wear ties weekly if not daily, so consider what color suits you are wearing and how often for each. Certain color/prints may look better with a certain color and style as suggested throughout the responses above. For example, I love wearing a burgundy tie with a grey/charcoal suit. I also enjoy wearing a simple forest green tie with a navy suit. These are personal preferences but they are simple choices.

I might recommend considering first how often these ties are worn, how they will be worn, and then pick and choose from the excellent compilation of acceptable options described so far throughout this thread. This discussion over these few pages has not provided a definitive list as you asked, but rightfully so has provided a great base of knowledge to build your own “essential” list as needed, and existing within your palette.

As a note of caution, I would opt to stay away from anything too busy in both color and composition. If you are indeed in finance and will be wearing ties 5 days a week, you want to be known for your work, not your ties.

Hope you enjoy my ramble

 

[financeguy33]

Similar to the sentiment expressed by BXpress above, I believe lists to be a bit dangerous. For me, it has resulted in a number of “essentials” that I do not use and have subsequently put in hibernation, sold, and or thrown out. I agree, having these lists of essential items can assist in the beginning, but I don’t think they need to be treated as more of a rough guideline and I believe you can use the information within to make informed and deliberate choices based on your own tastes using what is provided in these lists of essentials. There are too many websites/articles/blogs/Pinterest posts/YouTube videos claiming to show the most beneficial list of “essentials”.

Most importantly you must consider your own style tastes (assuming you are not a troll) and your need for these items and how they will be used. From your user name, it seems you may be in finance and wear ties weekly if not daily, so consider what color suits you are wearing and how often for each. Certain color/prints may look better with a certain color and style as suggested throughout the responses above. For example, I love wearing a burgundy tie with a grey/charcoal suit. I also enjoy wearing a simple forest green tie with a navy suit. These are personal preferences but they are simple choices.

I might recommend considering first how often these ties are worn, how they will be worn, and then pick and choose from the excellent compilation of acceptable options described so far throughout this thread. This discussion over these few pages has not provided a definitive list as you asked, but rightfully so has provided a great base of knowledge to build your own “essential” list as needed, and existing within your palette.

As a note of caution, I would opt to stay away from anything too busy in both color and composition. If you are indeed in finance and will be wearing ties 5 days a week, you want to be known for your work, not your ties.

Hope you enjoy my ramble

Thanks for your reply (and everyone else's) I am indeed in finance and wear suits daily. I have a navy suit, a charcoal suit, and a black pinstripe suit. My current tie collection is largely comprised of gifts from family and friends. I have been unhappy for quite sometime with the way they look in combination with my suits. I feel that they are not understated enough and too bright or clash.

 

[JJ Katz]

If you're looking for elegant but understated, you should check out this thread for inspiration.

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/soporific-tie-pr0n.104040/

 

[kravatorf]

First I fully agree with Die Work Wear, Sam Hober and Mr Wonderbeak : in the end its not about the 5 must have essentials but more about the 5 "go to" ties in ones collection. These are ties you like, pairing well with your wardrobe and related to context (social & professional)

So, If I had to reduce my tie collection to only 5 ties it would be:
- Slate blue grenadine (fina - Sam Hober) - as the most conservative and versatile of my collection (without being the usual marine blue that I believe quite boring for a solid tie)
- "old pink" thai brocade silk tie - neat pattern, discrete texture, slight black undertone and wonderful drape: a perfect match with every grey suit (whatever the shirt), allows lots of character and yet understated enough to be worn in formal/business context - (from sam hober, not available anymore in this muted pink shade. I would go on this one instead even if bolder than the brocade)
- a neat patterned dark blue and copper/orange/gold woven silk found during a trip to Florence. May look a bit fuzzy but the pattern size and colors makes it noticeable without being an "in your face" tie. Also a perfect match with any blue suit.
- Any of my blue and grey large stripe silk tie (all have some texture variation). Could be a reppe stripes with forest green as well
- one of my doted or patterned mid grey tie (probably this one), easy to pair, not that common, works well whatever the context

in addition :
- dark red and powder blue stripe on charcoal gray cashmere tie as winter tie
- my thai mudmee silk thai (discontinued) as a festive / FU tie, yet fully wearable for a night out

I had to put aside many ties I love e.g. browns, burgundy, maroon, violet, lavender, green, patterned marine & dark blue, mulberry wood weave... many of them being a perfect match with just a few outfit. The thing is that I could live with only these 5 ties, pairing them with my wardrobe according to my taste.