Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by wurger, Mar 15, 2014.
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
At some point, and it's going to be hard, you're gonna have to put 'em on and mar those soles.
Nah, I buy my stuff to wear. Just waiting for the weather to break.
@gyasih Oh, I know you, Mister, for wearing some really nice shoes! Are these Mermins MTO, or can you order them normally via their online shop?
Also, is this the Plum Museum, and can you order the matching belt too? Always stayed away from the Plum, as I just didn't know how to combine the belt..
Vass brown museum calf, U-Cap
Yes, it's Plum and I didn't ask. It's the MTO from a long time ago.
Rezso has been very kind to share this with SF after I emailed him
"Ilcea ( Italy ) no colors/leather at the moment. we have asked for some new colors/samples
Zonta ( Italy ) green/blue/grey museum calf. we have suspended with them our contract.
Bonaudo (Italy ) plum/gold/brown/gold +7 museum calf. we are currently offering these leathers. quality ok, gold +7 is new color. deeper shade, better contrast.
Haas ( France ) all scotch grain leathers, + misty calf merlot, grey.
Du Puy (France ) all plain leathers (boxcalf) highest quality on the market…
Horween ( USA ) Cordovan shells.
Italhide ( Italy ) All exotic leathers. very high quality.all colors / leather types (exotic) are available. "
Ah gold + 7 I wish I knew!
Meermin Linea Maestro Plum Museum, Olfe last
There have been a few posts in this thread where it was asked: "How does Museum calf age with wear?". Well perhaps these might be the oldest pair posted thus far. John Lobb Langton in New Gold Museum, 1105 last, 5 years old and have been worn a fair bit, but not yet resoled (even though the sole has worn almost to the welt at the toe). The uppers are still in very good condition with no cracking and much of the original mottled finish intact, although with the odd alcohol stain from various venues in London. One of my first B&S purchases and overall a good one.
You just can't beat JL design. Those shoes got some really rich tone patina over the years.
Why haven't you topyed them? I have a dilemma doing so for my new pair of Lopez Loafers. So, from your experience - if you could get back through the time- would you protect the soles with some rubber?
I've never been a fan of Topy, for a number of reasons. The shoe is designed to be worn as it was manufactured, therefore adding another layer to the outsole just seems unnecessary from my perspective. Also I don't know of any cobblers in London who I would trust with the work; not that I've done the legwork to find one.
As I've grown the rotation and started to wear Vass, AS and EG in addition to Lobb, I've realised that I don't care about leather soles wearing down, that's their purpose on a shoe. For very wet days I wear Dainite-soled shoes or boots. So to answer your question directly - no I would not protect the soles with rubber if I could turn back the clock.
Between Dark brown, plum and gold museum - which one should I buy first ? Which looks the most impressive in person (sorry for the oversimplification)
I can understand that you would not want to add a complete layer. It may make the soles last longer but there are downsides: reduced ventilation, moisture may get trapped (which may damage the sole and/or welt). More importantly even, the way the shoes wear may be affected because of the extra layer, small as it may be.
But if the toe tip is first to wear I can't understand why you wouldn't add steel tips, because none of the above downsides apply in case of good sunken rust-free steel tips. If you don't trust any cobbler in London with this work you could consider sending the shoes to Nils Kalf in Amsterdam, he is a very good craftsman as many users of the Dutch version of Styleforum will confirm. The charges for sending the shoes back and forth will be relatively hefty though.
@Staffer18283 I was in the same boat as you are now months ago. This is how It worked out for me:
Dark Brown Museum Calf looked way too dark for my taste. In lower light condition, like going out on a nigh out it could almost be mistaken with black. Note that over the time it will get even darker, as leather tends to darken.
Parisian Brown Museum on the other hand was Just What I was looking for. Clearly visible hoes and patina, medium to dark brown appearance .. I would never think twice about it now.
Gold Museum has a very rich tone, but kind of a orange in it. Personally I prefer Parisian Brown over it.
Plum is a beautiful color.
All in all.. If you do not have any of the leather - my advice would be go with the Parisian Brown Museum Calf as a first buy, after which you should buy Plum Museum and you can leave Gold for the end.
But at the end, you are the only who will wear these shoes and pay the money for them, so it is most important that you are happy with it.
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