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MTM with fused. Opinions?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Holnave, Jun 9, 2015.

  1. Holnave

    Holnave Member

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    I have decided to not go for labels and take the advise to visit a local tailor to get my first MTM suit. However I am a fresh grad and won't be able to afford a canvassed suit.

    The tailor offered me RM 3000 ($800) for a full wool Double vented with working cuff buttons.

    I know many SF members dislike fused suits but for my budget is MTM with fusings silly? Or will an off-the-peg suit be better.

    Tailor shop is Bespoked Ian Chang (Malaysia) for those interested.
     

  2. traverscao

    traverscao Distinguished Member

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    Go get something like Dragon Inside, or SuitSupply. Doggone an MTM suit that is fused. For your budget, you can even get Lanieri's suit.
     

  3. Holnave

    Holnave Member

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    Thanks traverscao. Nearest SuitSupply is in Singapore so I'll have to travel a few hours either by coach or plane (I do plan to visit SuitSupply next time I visit for a holiday). Going for a tailored suit instead of a good reputable brand can be a little risky as I could either land with a good or bad tailor. I've heard and read good things about this tailor and also having been mentored under Andre Ramroop of Maurice Sedwell.

    Funny thing about what they tailor told me was that for their MTM, they still cut the cloth according to my measurements similar to bespoke instead of taking existing bases of suits and adjusting to fit me (as MTM definitions suggest). Choosing the bespoke option for them only means that they'll stitch the canvass instead of fuse.

    Here's their website: http://bespoked.com.my/wp/

    If the tailor is reputable, would a tailored MTM be a better option than Lanieri's suits as per your suggestion or would you still recommend the RTW you have mentioned?

    Cheers!
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2015

  4. traverscao

    traverscao Distinguished Member

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    I had two names on my previous post, Dragon Inside (tm) custom suits (http://www.dragoninside.com/category/custom-suits), and Lanieri's Custom suits (https://www.lanieri.com/en). Those guys will land in your price or even lower with full canvas options (or at least half canvas - Lanieri) and high quality UK and European fabrics.

    Or else, if you go to a tailor, and are willing to spend, bespoke is still the best fit and construction. Since you live in Singapore, why not giving Kevin Seah a try?
     

  5. Holnave

    Holnave Member

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    I don't live in Singapore but in Malaysia. Ok I'll look into Dragon Inside and Lanieri, thanks
     

  6. EliodA

    EliodA Distinguished Member

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    @Holnave , unless you already exactly know your measurements and the ideosyncracies of your physique, online MTM is a recipe for disaster....
    I'd say, go for your local tailor. May not be the best suit ever made, but it should give you a good starting point for your wardrobe and you will learn a lot about what to look for in your next suit, without breaking the bank.
    Another route, provided you are of more or less average built, is to find a RTW suit that fits reasonably well and have it altered. Could also form a good starting point for your next one.

    Kevin Seah in Singapore is good but way more than the price you quoted (think 3x or more).
     

  7. traverscao

    traverscao Distinguished Member

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    I doubt if online MTM is anything bad. One just need to take one's own measurement, and not falling for the "best fit jacket" crap method.

    If a local tailor offers cheap suit with shit work, then I'd say time to spend more. How much does Ah Lok quote for a suit anyway?

    I redirected him to Suit Supply for that reason. In South East Asia, fused garment is the last thing necessary for both endurance of the garment and standing the temperature.
     

  8. Holnave

    Holnave Member

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    There's a thread on Ah Loke in here as well. The prices were really good but that was in 2009. In Malaysia the past 6 years has seen a real drastic increase in prices nationwide. I'll make it a point to visit Ah Loke when I'm next in Kuala Lumpur.

    There's a blogger's review on Ah Loke here: http://www.themodernfit.com/a-visit-to-the-tailor/
     

  9. buttonsnthreads

    buttonsnthreads Affiliate Vendor

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    Providing measurements online and having a suit delivered isn't a bad option to start off with.
    You get really good value for money especially when compared to off the rack or bespoke tailored. The fabric quality and construction quality is generally much higher, the key is to be able to provide a balanced suit based on the measurements provided. Suits generally range between USD 450 - 550 which is quite affordable for a custom made suit.
    You could discuss your requirements with a custom clothier and see if you are comfortable working with them.

    Do let us know if we can help in any way.

    Cheers
     

  10. Holnave

    Holnave Member

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    Thanks buttonsnthreads!

    I've gone back to the tailor (Bespoked Ian Chang) asking for canvassing options and I was told that for the fabric within my budget I was going for (despite it being pure wool) is not worth canvassing as it's an expensive service for a mediocre fabric and that it was better to choose the best fabrics (such as Dormeuil) for a bespoke service.

    Not sure how true this is but I was told that with canvassing over time some stitching my come out due to wear and tear and it would cost a lot to reopen and fix it and it's not worth spending a fortune on mediocre fabrics.

    As it's my first MTM suit and tailor experience I have decided to opt out of online first as I'd like a taste with working with a tailor face to face. I understand this costs more so I might most probably go online MTM once I'm familiar with my measurements.

    As canvassing on an MTM suit is out of my budget I have reluctantly gone for fused. I have asked for a traditional British cut and straight pockets, notched lapels, four working buttons on each cuff, double vents and went for a nice charcoal grey tropical wool (good for the hot weather here). I'm hoping despite the fusings it would look the best it possibly can on me. Final price after discount for RM2800 ($750).

    I'll update this post with pictures as I go for fittings and see the final result.
     

  11. traverscao

    traverscao Distinguished Member

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    Ask the guy for long, deep side vents.

    Be aware that fused suits can suffocate you in high humidity areas because air cannot escape through the glued fabric structure.
     

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