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MTM vs. Alterations???

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by pgoat, Apr 9, 2006.

  1. pgoat

    pgoat Senior Member

    Likes Received:
    Mar 15, 2006
    I've already thought long and hard between Bespoke and Alterations, though in the end it comes down to : Can I afford Bespoke? or Can I get by with MTM?

    If I could find a good fit in OTR I'd gladly stick with that but I have been pushed into my first MTM by years of frustration over various hard-to fit issues.

    Here's a new thought: Given the choice between buying an OTR and having alterations done, or getting a MTM suit, how much difference is there?

    Assuming the suit model cut and cloth itself and the tailor/measurements/cutting and sewing were of equal quality and competence, are there any opinions on which route would be preferrable or better?

    I am thinking while MTM should usually cost a bit more, the costs may be nearly even if one used a top-notch tailor; for example, I just paid $1600 for a MTM Brooks Bros. Greenfield suit; I also recently had the opportunity to grab a new Oxxford suit for $599, and was thinking about having Leonard Logsdail's shop do the alterations - they charge $55/hr, so figure 5-10 hours of work and it goes over $1000.

    Obviously if you are lucky enough to find an OTR that needs only a little work it can work much cheaper, (with only a few hours' work, that Oxxford suit would be a bargain indeed, even at $55/hr!!) but then there is the details factor - will you find the suit with the fabric, details, etc that are looking for OTR? But this question assumes you hard to fit to the degree that OTR suits will need some major surgery, hence making you a MTM or bespoke candidate.

    The one major advantage I can think of with MTM (besides having some options for details - pick stitching, pockets, lining etc) is that you have more flexibilty within that suit model. For example when being fitted by Martin Greenfield he had me try on several sizes of their stock pants, and I am essentially getting 'separates', something normally not available on their Golden Fleece line, and they will be tailored separates (hopefully impeccably so! I'll know in another few months....)

    any other thoughts?

  2. maxnharry

    maxnharry Distinguished Member

    Likes Received:
    Feb 26, 2005
    Alot of this depends on your body type. If you are fairly close to a standard size then it should be pretty easy and cost effective to get a tailor to get a good fit on RTW. Someone on AAAC posted recently about having Field's Tailors in DC fit an eBay suit well for around $185.

    If you have fit issues or want someone special then MTM/Bespoke might be the only way to a great fit.

    For me WW Chan hits the spot. If my financial condition improves I might look elsewhere, but I think they're pretty unbeatable.

  3. stach

    stach Senior Member

    Likes Received:
    Mar 11, 2006
    My wight fluctuates quite a bit and I find that my mtm pieces fit better at different levels of my body size.

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