MTM v. Bespoke

[runger]

I am in the market for a new shirt, and have received many suggestions via my first post, but I have a question regarding the definition of MTM v. Bespoke. I called Oxxford about their made to measure shirts, and they say they do more than just neck and sleeve length. They say they do body measurement too. I was under the impression that MTM was just neck measurement, sleeve measurement, and possibly option between regular and slim fit. I bought one from Nordstrom where i picked the fabric, buttons, cuff, and collar, but they only measure the neck and sleeves. If Oxxford is MTM and does body measurements, what did i get from Nordstrom? How is bespoke different from the Oxxford MTM and would a $200 Oxxford MTM be better than a comprably priced bespoke shirt from CEGO or would the CEGO shirt be better?

I'm going to NYC next weekend and i need to learn as much about my shirt options as possible before then.

Thanks.
runger

 

[zjpj83]

MTM they will tweak all measurements for you, including chest, waist, etc.

With bespoke, they are making a pattern just for you, not tweaking an existing one. It would probably result in a better fit, but I'm not entirely sure how. My shoulders are difficult to fit, so maybe bespoke would be better for me. Perhaps bespoke will be better at fixing balance issues you might have.

 

[Manton]

To give a couple of examples:

A good MTM program can change some key measurements, including chest, waist, and hips (which all affect the shape and fullness -- or slimness -- of the body). However, it won't take into account sloping shoudlers, sleeve pitch, back balance, etc. -- anything not average and not symetrical won't be accounted for, in all likelihood. To put this another way, not only are you getting a pattern made just for you (which in itself is not the most important thing) but every line on that pattern is negotiable (that's the key). Every angle can be chaged, every curve dulled or sharpened, ever line lengthened or shortened, etc. That is how a good shirtmaker arrives at spectacular fit.

Beyond this, with bespoke you can specify everthing. Collar 2" high in back, but 1 1/2" in front? Fine. Cuffs 9 3/4" diameter and 3 1/4" width? Fine. Eight buttons rather than seven? Fine. You can choose the exact length of the collar points, the exact amount of spread. Etc.

 

[Cantabrigian]

'Negotiable' is a very good way to put it...

'Fine' may be a bit misleading.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Cantabrigian

'Negotiable' is a very good way to put it...

'Fine' may be a bit misleading.

If your shirtmaker won't change the things I named, either he is not making you a bespoke shirt, or he stubborn to the point that you may want to look elsewhere.

 

[Cantabrigian]

Double post and I'm not bright enough to delete one...

 

[Cantabrigian]

I wasn't thinking about anything in particular.

Just joking that even in my limited experience, there seems to be a lot of negotiation.

 

[zjpj83]

manton, can I ask who your bespoke shirtmaker is? Someone in NYC?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by zjpj83

manton, can I ask who your bespoke shirtmaker is? Someone in NYC?
These days, Geneva, mostly.

 

[Freerider]

Originally Posted by Manton

A good MTM program can change some key measurements, including chest, waist, and hips (which all affect the shape and fullness -- or slimness -- of the body). However, it won't take into account sloping shoudlers, sleeve pitch, back balance, etc. -- anything not average and not symetrical won't be accounted for, in all likelihood

Now, there is a huge difference between an online MTM shop and some of the best MTM shirtmakers in London and Italy. The latter won't make you a true trial shirt but they will draft a personal pattern and they will take into account sloping shoulders, back balance etc.

 

[Newton]

http://www.kjbeckettbespokeshirts.co...asurements.htm

This is a good look at the measurements that go into MTM shirts.

www.dress-for-success.com takes into account posture and shoulder slope, albeit in a limited way.