Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by BackInTheJox, Sep 8, 2012.
Its a good thing you have almost a year to save up
Meermin has a plain wholecut wholecut which should be cheaper than the AEs.
Strongly suggest finding silk laces tho.
FTR the amount of bulling (and back stripping unless you want that much wax there all the time) needed to subsitute for patent shouldn't be under estimated.
Ha I was actually just looking at those online.
Any idea what shipping ends up being? I live in the US, FYI.
Edit: nevermind, just found it on their site. Looks a bit pricey unfortunately.
35 euros. Remember to take off vat tho. Should be ~200 (USD) landed.
Eta on the op.
I find flat front trousers worn on the waist sit oddly.
The vents shouldn't open and hence your but shouldn't matter.
I's suggest against pushing anyone making your garmets into doing anything that they don't normally do especially if you may have communication problems re: formal vests.
Hmm, I actually was unaware of VAT and had to look up what it is. Is it really that significant of a deduction? If I'm not mistaken, 160 euros should be around $205 USD. Is the price of the shipping really counterbalanced by the VAT? $200 USD would be amazing . . . and I like the shape of the shoe more than AE's Vernons (and I like the plain wholecut look better).
I'm unsure what you mean about trousers "worn on the waist" . . . as opposed to what? Sitting lower? Just want to make sure I understand what you're saying.
And what do you mean the vents shouldn't open? All of my lounge suits have a double vent back (two vents on either side creating the back "flap") . . . this helps to sort of give way and accommodate my backside whereas a nonvented jacket wouldn't have the same "give", no? Maybe I'm confused.
Agreed about avoiding custom vest requests. I really do think that the cummerbund will be perfectly fine for me, and I'm going to be keeping my jacket on as much as possible anyway, I think.
Thank you for the input!
Vat is the 20% Europe sales tax so yes.
Re; Braces, a natural waist is the position of minimum circumfrence between the hips and the chest. This generally looks very high.*
It will give in a freedom of movement sense, however in normal (standing) positions the vent shouldn't open (move from its non stressed position). That is both side of the vent should stay perfectly vertical and not move apart.
*This can be thrown off in the case of a very large gut.
OP, you mention you are on a strict budget for the wedding outfit and also say you are considering getting a BB vest. A significantly less expensive alternative is the low-cut, three-button vest with lapels available for $39.95 from www.finetuxedos.com. It is backless, but I think you indicate you plan to keep your jacket on for most of the time period. This option may be worth checking out.
Also, you ask about pleat width for your shirt. One-fourth or one-half inch is the norm, probably with one-half inch looking less "rental."
All the best!
Gotcha, thanks. Would it make more (or less?) sense to forego the braces and just do side tabs? Or is that a huge no-no.
Firstly I'd note on my comment on pleats & waist height is somewhat personal fit related. You may like it with flat front and/or lower both of which plenty of well dressed of people do.
You can also wear braces lower than the natural waist. Side tabs (or nothing for that matter) on their own are also fine, if not traditional.
Thanks! I hadn't done a thorough search yet on vests, but that looks like a much better price than BB . . . if I do decide to go with a vest over a cummerbund, I will seriously consider that one.
Also thank you for the input on the shirt pleats. I was thinking that pleats in the 1/4 to 1/2" would perhaps be ideal. I'm leaning towards 1/2" at this point.
Yeah, I tend to prefer the look of flat front pants in general, although with my - ahem - muscular backside, sometimes pleated pants are more accommodating. That said, pretty much all of my pants are flat front, and although it can be difficult to find the perfect pair of pants that fit me properly without either looking hugely baggy through the seat/thighs or - on the other end of the spectrum - causing immense pocket flair, when I get the fit right I really like the look with the flat front.
Part of my decision whether or not to wear braces may hinge on how the pants end up . . . while I have my measurements down pretty well as far as I am able to tell, if the pants end up fitting very very well but with a high rise, I may be more inclined to go with braces. If the pants end up sitting lower than that, forgoing the braces may be in order (or else they would probably be for "decorative" purposes only and have to be loosened a bit so that they're not pulling the pants up into my crotch . . . but at that point, I think they'd look funny if not tightened and serving their purpose).
For a shirt, you may want to consider a marcella front instead. Here is a link to one:
There is a wing collar version as well.
A cummerbund would be more appropriate thing to wear thatn the vest.
Why? Each is acceptable and appropriate. To make a case for the vest, I think that a vest conpliments the peak lapels better
You would want to compensate for the braces in your measurements when having it made. Just to give you an idea, I had belt loops added and suspender buttons added to a dinner suit made when I didn't know any better. In total, I ended up having to have the pant legs let out about 2.5". The crotch obviously couldn't be let out; the pants are a bit tighter than I'd like there now, but I can still sit comfortably. However, I think everything would probably drape better if I had it cut the right way to start with.
The plus side is that the waistcoat now covers my (higher) waist.
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