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MTM Tuxedo, help me make sure I'm all set

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by BackInTheJox, Sep 8, 2012.

  1. Plestor

    Plestor Senior member

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    Vat is the 20% Europe sales tax so yes.

    Re; Braces, a natural waist is the position of minimum circumfrence between the hips and the chest. This generally looks very high.*


    It will give in a freedom of movement sense, however in normal (standing) positions the vent shouldn't open (move from its non stressed position). That is both side of the vent should stay perfectly vertical and not move apart.




    *This can be thrown off in the case of a very large gut.
     
  2. johnvw

    johnvw Senior member

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    OP, you mention you are on a strict budget for the wedding outfit and also say you are considering getting a BB vest. A significantly less expensive alternative is the low-cut, three-button vest with lapels available for $39.95 from www.finetuxedos.com. It is backless, but I think you indicate you plan to keep your jacket on for most of the time period. This option may be worth checking out.

    Also, you ask about pleat width for your shirt. One-fourth or one-half inch is the norm, probably with one-half inch looking less "rental."

    All the best!
     
  3. BackInTheJox

    BackInTheJox Senior member

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    Gotcha, thanks. Would it make more (or less?) sense to forego the braces and just do side tabs? Or is that a huge no-no.
     
  4. Plestor

    Plestor Senior member

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    Firstly I'd note on my comment on pleats & waist height is somewhat personal fit related. You may like it with flat front and/or lower both of which plenty of well dressed of people do.
    You can also wear braces lower than the natural waist. Side tabs (or nothing for that matter) on their own are also fine, if not traditional.
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2012
  5. BackInTheJox

    BackInTheJox Senior member

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    Thanks! I hadn't done a thorough search yet on vests, but that looks like a much better price than BB . . . if I do decide to go with a vest over a cummerbund, I will seriously consider that one.

    Also thank you for the input on the shirt pleats. I was thinking that pleats in the 1/4 to 1/2" would perhaps be ideal. I'm leaning towards 1/2" at this point.
     
  6. BackInTheJox

    BackInTheJox Senior member

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    Yeah, I tend to prefer the look of flat front pants in general, although with my - ahem - muscular backside, sometimes pleated pants are more accommodating. That said, pretty much all of my pants are flat front, and although it can be difficult to find the perfect pair of pants that fit me properly without either looking hugely baggy through the seat/thighs or - on the other end of the spectrum - causing immense pocket flair, when I get the fit right I really like the look with the flat front.

    Part of my decision whether or not to wear braces may hinge on how the pants end up . . . while I have my measurements down pretty well as far as I am able to tell, if the pants end up fitting very very well but with a high rise, I may be more inclined to go with braces. If the pants end up sitting lower than that, forgoing the braces may be in order (or else they would probably be for "decorative" purposes only and have to be loosened a bit so that they're not pulling the pants up into my crotch . . . but at that point, I think they'd look funny if not tightened and serving their purpose).
     
  7. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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  8. mjjo

    mjjo Active Member

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    A cummerbund would be more appropriate thing to wear thatn the vest.
     
  9. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    Why? Each is acceptable and appropriate. To make a case for the vest, I think that a vest conpliments the peak lapels better
     
  10. wyardley

    wyardley Member

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    You would want to compensate for the braces in your measurements when having it made. Just to give you an idea, I had belt loops added and suspender buttons added to a dinner suit made when I didn't know any better. In total, I ended up having to have the pant legs let out about 2.5". The crotch obviously couldn't be let out; the pants are a bit tighter than I'd like there now, but I can still sit comfortably. However, I think everything would probably drape better if I had it cut the right way to start with.

    The plus side is that the waistcoat now covers my (higher) waist.
     
  11. BackInTheJox

    BackInTheJox Senior member

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    Makes sense. At this point, I am leaning heavily towards a cummerbund. Given this, I may just decide to do side tabs (no belt loops) and skip the braces all together. I quite like the look of tuxedo shirt+black bowtie with a cummerbund when the jacket is off (which inevitably will occur) . . . when a proper waistcoat is worn that is low-cut enough to function as it should, I just don't like the look quite as much sans jacket (it's not bad, just not great in my opinion).

    I'm a fairly short but muscular guy with wide shoulders and a pretty big drop/V-taper . . . I know sometimes people recommend a vest/waistcoat for people shaped like this; however, I think a cummerbund can look quite good and still create a decent "slimming" effect if done right. I don't know if they come in "sizes", but perhaps one that is on the more moderate rather than wide side would be ideal, one that would cover the waist without feeling as though it's encroaching upon my chest or anything.

    Returning to the shirt issue, is there a role perhaps for a "bib front" shirt here? Does it hinge at all upon waistcoat vs. cummerbund, or is the choice independent of these?
     
  12. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    The type of shirt you get is independent of the type of waist covering, so feel free to pick whichever kind you like. I'm not sure what you mean by "bib front" though. Generally, all evening shirts are bib front, whether the bib is pleats or marcella. All bib front means is that the center exposed portion of the shirt is thicker and is what contains the decorative aspect.
     
  13. BackInTheJox

    BackInTheJox Senior member

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    I was just going with what Indochino lists on their site:

    "Bib" Front: http://d3dgk6r8ca2pzn.cloudfront.ne...330/1334566035.787383435.primary.original.jpg
    "Classic Tuxedo Shirt" (pleats): http://d3dgk6r8ca2pzn.cloudfront.ne...x330/1325855420.1402566412.primary.medium.jpg
    "Starched at Casino Royale Shirt": http://d3dgk6r8ca2pzn.cloudfront.ne...x330/1334567333.14247753.primary.original.jpg

    I realize the quality on these doesn't seem particularly great, but again they're part of the package deal so that I'm basically getting a tuxedo for $59 off plus a completely free tuxedo shirt so I'm trying to give them the benefit of the doubt.
     
  14. johnvw

    johnvw Senior member

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    +1
     

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