MTM suit - help and critique needed (pictures)

[Maximillion]

Dear Styleforum,

I would really appreciate your help by "improving" my next MTM suit. The following pictures show my latest MTM suit. It's a SCABAL MTM - I get measured at my tailor in Hamburg, Germany. Cloth is a Scabal "Triple A" 120s (I guess the weight is 280grams/sqm). I payed approx. 900 Euros (about 1200 Dollars).

I have the suit about 1 year now and wore it aprox. 50-60 days. It starts to loose form a little and I notice some shine on the trousers. I know that my heavy use is not good for the suit.

Excuse the pics (they are very unfocused). My camera is broken, this is from the Iphone cam....

Here we go (BTW: is this my IGent initiation ritus? My wife already thinks I am a lunatic)

Trousers (front)

Trousers (back)

Front

Side

Back

I am going to order 2 more suits for business. Full bespoke is not an option (money). I can't afford a higher price tag. I had big problems with RTW (very long torso, shortish legs --> need different sizes for jacket and trousers). I would like to optimize the MTM input of my tailor - so maybe you could help with your experience. Do you think I should look for another MTM tailor?

My thoughts:

I like the trousers, but maybe they are a bit tight?
Should I go with no cuffs on the trousers?
I really do not like the back of the jacket (and the trousers) - might be my bad posture - any ideas?
Jacket length?

Thank you very much. Best Regards from Berlin.

Max

 

[AntonioG]

I like the trousers, but maybe they are a bit tight?
>Yes, specially around the knee area.

Should I go with no cuffs on the trousers?
>I like cuffs.

I really do not like the back of the jacket (and the trousers) - might be my bad posture - any ideas?
>Yes something weird going on here but the experts and tailors around here should give you some good advice.

Jacket length?
>I think it's OK

Overall I think it is pretty good for MTM, congrats!

 

[Maximillion]

Thanks. Anyone else with some ideas on possible changes? Regards. M

 

[Irond Will]

The fit is really not bad in general. There's something going on in the back around where the arms meet the torso, and there's something wrong in the seat. I don't really know exactly what is done about such things in terms of cut or tailoring, but hopefully the guy who does the measurements for the suit would know if you brought along your old suit and directed his attention to it.

 

[a tailor]

send these pictures along with your next order. mark on the pictures the points you want changed. and describe the points you are concerned with. dont forget to ask for a right low shoulder.
only order one suit at a time. you may wish to make yet more changes.

 

[ziggysnorkel]

A note on clothing loosing its sheen. I read that if you iron on the inside of the cloth instead of on the outside which is visible, you are less likely to lose the sheen. This, however, is not something that most dry cleaners are likely to take into consideration.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by a tailor

send these pictures along with your next order. mark on the pictures the points you want changed. and describe the points you are concerned with. dont forget to ask for a right low shoulder.
only order one suit at a time. you may wish to make yet more changes.

This is a great idea.

The trouser can be and needs to be adjusted for the way you stand. The back is too long in relation to the fronts and needs the adjustment for a flat seat. If you grab the trouser at the back pockets and lift up, you will see the difference. Overall it is a decent cut and the suit works for you. Some MTM offer fine tuning adjustments, some don't. Did you work with a tailor, an independent MTM individual or a men's store to order this suit?

 

[Maximillion]

I worked with a "real" tailor - he also does fully hand-sewn MTM and did bespoke. He seems to be very experienced with the Scabal MTM system.

Thanks for the advice on the trousers.

Is anyone able to give more details on what exactly should be done with the jacket? I guess the tailor can do some alterations AFTER the suit comes from the factory. He did some stuff last time as well.

I will only order one suit only - I guess that makes a lot of sense.

Regards

Max

 

[litho]

i thought you'd get abuse about your tie

 

[Douglas]

Originally Posted by ziggysnorkel

A note on clothing loosing its sheen. I read that if you iron on the inside of the cloth instead of on the outside which is visible, you are less likely to lose the sheen. This, however, is not something that most dry cleaners are likely to take into consideration.

You have this backwards. The problem is not that the cloth has lost its sheen, it is that it is picking up a shine in places where it rubs on chairs, etc. This is often seen on trouser seats and especially elbows, where the cloth rubs against a desk.

 

[Douglas]

Overall I think the fit is very nice. There is something going on in the back of the jacket at the armpits and below your shoulderblades - you can see in the back photo there is too much material. I am not a tailor and I have no idea how to fix this.

 

[Maximillion]

The tie was a bit short that morning. I like it.

Max