MTM Suit Feedback Please

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by MLad, Oct 13, 2016.

  1. MLad

    MLad New Member

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    I recently received my first two MTM suits and I'm looking for some outside opinions on what alterations should be made. Sorry in advance for some wonky exposure and the moire from my shirt. Camera was on the auto-timer and wasn't playing nice.

    Suit #1: Charcoal from Black Lapel (https://blacklapel.com/shop/suits/charcoal-gray-custom-suit) (Paid $499)

    (Please excuse the mismatched belt)

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    My thoughts:
    - Sleeves could be lengthened about half an inch. (Shirt sleeves are probably a hair too long, too)
    - Waist could be relaxed a touch in the back
    - Sleeve pitch is probably off a little causing the bunching in the rear of my upper arm.
    - Pant break could be a little shorter.
    - Thighs are too tight.

    Suit #1: Deep Indigo Glen Plaid 3-piece from Indochino (https://www.indochino.com/product/deep-indigo-glen-plaid-suit) (Paid $458 on sale)

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    My thoughts:
    - Jacket should be let out to fix the open vents
    - Vest body can be taken in for a closer fit. I wish it were slightly longer, too.
    - Seat of pants could be let out a little to alleviate pocket bowing

    Overall I'm quite happy with both suits, especially for first orders. Both were ordered on the same day and arrived on the same day. The Black Lapel suit was only in transit for two days vs about a week for the Indochino suit which is why I believe the Indochino still has some latent wrinkles after hanging in a steamy bathroom for a day. Both feel well-constructed and show no defects. If necessary, I feel both could be worn without any alterations in a pinch and still look better than most RTW suits of the same price. My only real complaint is that the Black Lapel pants are too tight in the thighs. I'm pretty sure I'd tear them if I tried to squat down. They asked me to confirm my thigh measurement since it was larger than usual, which I did. However I believe they still made them about an inch too small. It looks like there's enough extra material that my tailor may be able to let them out half an inch, which could be satisfactory. I'll be in contact with Black Lapel to see what they think.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2016


  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I think that the body needs to be let out significantly in both suits, through the waist and midsection. The first jacket also looks too tight in the arms, and the angle of the arm is just not really right for you.

    The second suit certainly looks better. Neither is perfect, but, AFAIK, not unfixable either.
     


  3. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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  4. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    too short

    button stance is too high on both

    let out waist of jackets

    both are messy under the collar


    sleeves look short, but the cuffs of your shirt are too big so it is hard to tell

    vest is fine

    seat is too tight on the pants


    pants on blank label to long

    alterations could be very expensive
     


  5. MLad

    MLad New Member

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    Thanks for the feedback. Black Lapel is going to remake the pants since they were too tight. Their concierge service has been helpful thus far.

    I took the Indochino suit and BL jacket to a tailor. He's going to lengthen the sleeves on the BL, let out the waist on both jackets, and lower the collar a little on both to smooth out the upper back. He's also letting out the hips on the Indochino pants to get rid of the pocket flaring. He thought that in person they both looked pretty good for first-round MTM suits. He did chide me for getting functioning button holes on the first go-around, though, since it makes the sleeves so much harder to alter. Both companies offer $75 alteration credit, so I still think I'll be happier than if I bought RTW at the same price point.

    I agree that they are both maybe on the short side, but I'm not going to worry about it on these. I'll go 0.5-1 inch longer in the future if I order another jacket or suit from either of them.
     


  6. andrewmrsid

    andrewmrsid Senior member

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    Hard to tell inn the pictures, but part of the stress across the lower back seems tho come from a posture discrepancy. When I look at the sleeve head, top of the shoulders, and lower back of the black lapel I think you stands more erect than the suit was cut. Again, just looking at a picture, but you should discuss this if you do another.
     


  7. MLad

    MLad New Member

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    Yeah I definitely agree. When customizing the jackets, both companies have a question regarding whether your posture is erect, average, or slouched. I selected average for mine which is probably why the sleeve pitch is a little off and there's some extra material in the upper back. I think I should have selected erect.
     


  8. EzraPaul

    EzraPaul Senior member

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    The jacket style and the pant style don't match. The shrunken jacket doesn't make sense with pleated trousers. Either the pants need to be much trimmer or the jacket needs to be longer, which is probably the case anyway. Definitely the sleeves as well. If they gave you functional buttonholes, return the suits. Don't let them convince you that the sleeves can be lengthened because either the buttons will be too high up the arm or they will try to lengthen from the shoulder, which is never acceptable.
     


  9. JHORLEY

    JHORLEY New Member

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    NEED TO BE ALTERATIONS AS MY OPINION,BOTH SUITS,
    1- BOTH JACKET’S SLEVES NEED TO LENGTHEN = +1 INCH
    2- WAIST AREA NEED TO MAKE WIDER = +1 INCH
    3- IF CLASSIC DESIGN PREFER JACKET LENGTH NEED TO =+1 INCH
    4- OTHERWISE NEW TREND,LENGTH IS OKEY,
    PANTS ARE SEEMS PERFECT,IF YOU NEED A BIT WIDER ON THIGH AS YOU WISH,OTHERWISE IT SEEMS PERFECT.
    VEST ALSO PERFECT LENGTH AT ALL IN MY OPINION..THANKS
     


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