MTM Suit by Shanghai C & G fashion - help me choose style options

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sleeprequired, Jun 8, 2014.

  1. Sleeprequired

    Sleeprequired Member

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    I have a wedding coming up and i need to order a few suits however i'll limit the conversation to mine as the others are straight forward. I'll throw out a few facts about myself in the aim of getting the best advice possible.

    - i'm 6ft and 115kg and carry all my weight up top in my chest/upper body and stomach
    - i'm getting married in 20c weather and looking to keep cool by having a 3 piece and only wearing the jacket when required
    - this is my first MTM so i'm going to spend around 6-800 and then maybe get some better suits after this suit is adjusted
    - at this point in going for hudderfield cloth on advice i've received

    I really like the Tom Ford style and want to know what to ask for to get a suit like this - http://marshallmatlock.com/wp-conte...bs/thumbs_three piece suit, stylin on you.jpg

    what do i need to specify? do as much detail as you like because the style guide i got with it is 50 pages long :)

    Also what about pants? I have no idea on this at all and there's HEAPS of options there too.


    I'm also conscious of a 2 button suit sitting strangely like this - http://trendseve.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/designer-collection-by-tom-ford-men-suits.jpg

    how can i make sure i avoid this trap?
    Looking at measurement guides, things like 'base of the neck' & 'where the planes of the arm and shoulder meet' are a little unclear to me, is there a dummies guide to measuring that will help with a little more explanation for the suit noob?
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2014
  2. Sleeprequired

    Sleeprequired Member

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  3. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Out of curiosity, where are these "50 pages" of style guide.

    I assume that you are having MTM and so you would be best placed taking a photograph of what you think you want: However MTM is about altering standard blocks to fit you, not your specifying the style so your chosen supplier may not have access. Only Tom Ford makes 'Tom Ford' designs although some might copy it. Hong Kong bespoke makers are best at that.

    It is a while since I dragged this out here so here is a check list of detail for your commission.

    Check list - suit.

    Coat

    Where I have put a * these you should really have, the others are choices. There are obviously many other styles and features you can have but of the classic everyday business style:

    High arm holes
    Single/Double breast?
    If single, 3, 2 or 1 button?
    Roll of lapel - just where?
    Peak lapel or notch (SB)
    If double breasted, button one (4 x 1) or two (6 x2)?
    4 working cuff buttons*
    Colour of lining - contrast or match. Satin or polyester?? satin lining, an ermazine (satin viscose) or a twill: Shot satin?
    Straight or 'slant/hacking’ side pockets with or without flaps?
    Outside ticket pocket?
    Ticket pocket inside either or both side pockets?
    Outside ticket pocket?
    Lapel button hole and flower stem 'cord' behind*
    Ensure that the right amount of shirt cuff shows*
    Side/centre or no vents
    Inside pockets - how many and where placed? I currently have 8.
    • Do you want any to fasten – zip or button/flap
    • What size? Specify
    • Do you use two breast pockets? It is certainly now a good idea to have a cell phone pocket as well as a ticket pocket: Think where you want it - not where others would.
    • More than 2 ticket pockets?
    • Pen pocket (s)
    Your name embroidered inside?

    Trousers

    Braces?
    Belt or side adjusters/extension band?
    If braces how high a rise (can vary by choice) Fishtail back or not? (Preferred with very high rise)
    French bearer
    Zip fly or button?
    Turn ups?
    Pleats? One or two forward or reverse?
    Width of bottoms
    Half lined legs
    Lined?
    On seam or slant side pockets?
    Coin pocket inside either or both side pockets
    Fob pocket? - what style i.e. in waistband or outside and below with flap or button/hole?
    Back pockets? - 1, 2 or none? If yes how do you prefer them to fasten, button through (preferable) or flap/button or tab/button. Concealed button is another option. Double jetted with button/hole look best I think.

    Waistcoat/vest

    -do you want a vest at all
    -single-breasted or double-breasted
    -if single, five or six buttons?
    -lapels or no lapels?
    -hole for watch chain?
    Number of pockets?


    There are many views here about all these. Some people tend to have a fairly firm few which tends to be from days gone by. These are things - such as braces are a must: they have advantages on 'hang' of the trouser but not everyone wants to have braces visible when they remove their jacket - that is for you although they are not terribly practical today and I would recommend the practical in this instance.

    I would suggest that you take this list and a current suit and just draw up a list based on this lot that you want. Some of the houses can be a little prescriptive and try to persuade first timers into the cutters thoughts, not what he wants.

    You decide and then stick to your guns. It is your suit and you should get the pleasure out of it


    2006
     
  4. Sleeprequired

    Sleeprequired Member

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    Firstly, thanks for trying to help. I'm about to place my order and I can use all the help i can get. The pressure is on, i'm getting 5 suits and i've got some skeptical people, however Amy @ Shanghai comes highly recommended so it's down to my ability to specify correctly.

    Quote:
    I can send it to you if you like, it covers the Jacket, Vest, Pants & shirts

    Quote: They are a bespoke tailor and will cut a pattern based on my measurements, however there are no multiple fittings due to location etc. I linked to what i like here, and was going to get advice around that... Mind you it's not so much the material as the style.

    Quote: So essentially, what do i need to ask for specifically to get an outcome like this? Wider Lapels? etc etc

    Quote: I'm going for that photo i linked, unless i'm making any really obvious mistakes. I'll be wearing a vest while the others are in a 2 piece. Firstly to separate the groom, and secondly because i'll have my jacket off most of the time and want to still look smart.

    The Style guide actually covers most of these things below, however i'll list those it doesn't. I'm basically trying to replicate that suit i linked to in the OP which is Tom Ford, or receive advice on why that should not be case

    High Arm Holes? - What does this achieve?
    If single, 3, 2 or 1 button? 2 button but i want to avoid this sort of thing - http://trendseve.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/designer-collection-by-tom-ford-men-suits.jpg
    Roll of lapel - just where? What's your recommendation? I'm a big bloke and carry all my weight up top, what would you recommend. I'm 37 but pretty outgoing as well if that helps with style
    Peak lapel or notch (SB) - as per that suit - notch - how big should they be given i'm quite broad across the chest?
    4 working cuff buttons* - yes
    Colour of lining - all good here i know what i want to do
    Outside ticket pocket? that's above the flap pockets right? I was thinking 2 normal pockets then a pocket above in the same fabric. looks cool i think.
    Lapel button hole and flower stem 'cord' behind* - gotcha
    Ensure that the right amount of shirt cuff shows* - wow, ok what's the best way to achieve this.. i've taken all the measurements but this, given i don't have any prior suits to base it off, worries me
    Side/centre or no vents - side vents i believe is best right?
    Inside pockets - how many and where placed? I currently have 8.
    • Do you want any to fasten – I think zip
    • What size? What would that link specify?
    • Do you use two breast pockets? It is certainly now a good idea to have a cell phone pocket as well as a ticket pocket: Think where you want it - not where others would.
    • More than 2 ticket pockets?
    • Pen pocket (s)
    Your name embroidered inside?

    Trousers

    Braces? i don't think so, not with a vest? what's the norm here?
    Belt or side adjusters/extension band? now this one i'm not sure on, i would have thought a belt was normal with a suit. Can i get some thoughts here
    If braces how high a rise (can vary by choice) Fishtail back or not? (Preferred with very high rise)
    French bearer
    Zip fly or button?
    Turn ups?
    Pleats? no
    Width of bottoms - i wouldn't know enough to specifiy
    Half lined legs - yes
    Lined?
    On seam or slant side pockets? - i wouldn't know enough to specifiy
    Coin pocket inside either or both side pockets - i wouldn't know enough to specifiy
    Fob pocket? - what style i.e. in waistband or outside and below with flap or button/hole? i wouldn't know enough to specifiy
    Back pockets? - 1, 2 or none? If yes how do you prefer them to fasten, button through (preferable) or flap/button or tab/button. Concealed button is another option. Double jetted with button/hole look best I think.

    Waistcoat/vest

    -do you want a vest at all - yes
    -single-breasted or double-breasted - single
    -if single, five or six buttons? - not sure here
    -lapels or no lapels? lapels look cool as per that photo i feel
    -hole for watch chain? yeah why not
    Number of pockets? don't know.


    Most of these questions are covered in the style guide, however i'm not sure what to specifiy to get the look i linked in that photo
     
  5. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    You'll be fine, mate. Best of luck :)
     
  6. Sleeprequired

    Sleeprequired Member

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    ok so having completed the style guide these are the options i've chosen... I'm trying to emulate the suit in the link. Can anyone tell me what i'm choosing that conflicts with that?

    General
    High Arm Holes
    Left Lapel Button Hole with flower stem/cord behind
    Lapels to match the style linked below
    Lapel depth or roll to match image below - What should i specifiy here? What width should the lapels be?
    Copy/Match this Style
    - http://marshallmatlock.com/wp-conte...bs/thumbs_three piece suit, stylin on you.jpg

    Material
    Suit Fabric – 101053 - https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/10
    Lining – Bemberg Grey
    Buttons – Horn Buttons

    Jacket Options
    Full Canvas: C-000A
    Notch Lapel: C-0001
    Single Breasted two buttons: C-0012
    Normal pockets with double besom ticket pocket: C-0204
    Side Vents: C-04N2
    Full Lining: C-0501
    Left lapel sham buttonhole: C-0541 (must have flower stem/cord behind) - http://cdn.styleforum.net/1/1d/1dd00f66_IMG_7530.jpeg
    Narrow Pick Stich 0.15cm: C-0571 - should i be getting a pick stitch?
    *Pick Stich Match Fabric: C-057A - i take it matching is appropriate IF i do?
    Normal Shoulder: C-0601 - do people generally specifiy the amount of padding etc?
    Real Sleeve slit Real button hole: C-0612
    Normal Buttoning: C-0640
    *+Shape: C-0644
    Buttonhole Colour match fabric: C-064A – Please make button holes this shape
    http://cdn.styleforum.net/f/fa/fa2b99a4_IMG_7531.jpeg
    Buttoning colour match buttonhole: C-064C – if using horn buttons is this still needed?
    Satin Style – no Satin
    Inner facing B: C-0702
    Inner pocket besom by lining: C-0731
    *Small triangle sweat pad: C-0742 - this is their standard
    *Sweat pad with lining: C-074B
    Fashion pocket: C-0803 – Can we add a phone pocket?
    Inner pick stitch: C-0851
    *Inner pick stitch colour: C-085A
    ?Brand Label below left pen pocket: 0871
    Fabric label below right inner pocket: 0872
    Name label above left inner pocket: 0873
    Collar tab – C-0881

    Pants Options
    Pant style: T-3001
    Waistband style standard”: T-3010
    Plain front (no pleat): T-3020
    2.5cm slant pocket: T-3104
    Left welt watch pocket: T-3171
    Double besom w/button: T-3201
    Pocket and front fly with top stitch: T-3300
    Sideseam Standard: T-3310
    ?Beltloop style: T-3329
    ?Sideband adjust buckle: T-3352
    Fish Mouth Fly: T-3400
    Pointed extender with hook & button: T-3412
    Nylon Zip: T-3420
    String pleat waistband with snugtex: T-3436
    + Shape buttons: T-345B
    ?Half Front Lining: T-3501
    With ellipse shape gusset: T-3512
    Back crotch seam with seal stitch: T-3520
    Pocketing with binding: T-3526
    Both sides coin pocket: T-3532
    Plain 5.0 hemmed: T-3600
    embroider customer name on heel guard: T-3612
    label position 1.0cm below the hip pocket curtain: T-3640
    Care Label Position: T3634

    Vest Option
    Notch Lapel with collar band: V-4005
    Pointed Bottom 5 buttons: V-400G
    Regular below pockets: V-4300
    Standard two pockets vest: V4100
    Standard vest with strap: V-4200
    Care label attached to right seam: V-4216
     

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