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MTM shirts. Tall chap, fit problems.

antipode

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Dear All,

I seem to have too many problems with shirts and I'd very much appreciate your advice.


The shirt I'm wearing is from Nino's:


Here's a RTW Liberty shirt:


I find shirts almost impossible to buy, so I tried Mangas MTM:


And here is one from Stephen Haroutunian:


So, there you have it.

My specific question is this: what do I do about a shirt. The ninos one has sleeves that are too short and with shoulders that are a touch too narrow. The liberty shirt is also too short in the sleeves.

The Mangas one feels too tight, especially under the arms and neck and pulls from the collar to the shoulder (why?). It's a little big on the back, but I'm hesitant to get darts because of how they are on the Haroutunian.

I love the Stephen Haroutunian twill fabric, but it's all too big on the top and too slim on my hips. It's MTM, and I asked for it to be slimmed down in the arms (the sleeves were at least inch wider) and back from how it first arrived, but it's still not right, I think. (?) The darts at the back make the fabric above them stand out from my shoulder blades, and it does this even more if I have higher waisted trousers. They really seem to stiffen up the otherwise very soft fabric. And after I've raised my arms once or twice the shirt stays up.

What do I do? Go back to Mangas and try again? (The mangas shirt is about £80-90, same as the Haroutunian, and I really don't have any more to spend... The Liberty RTW was on sale reduced from £250 to £25.)

Many thanks!!

PS. The shoes are Barker Hand Crafted.
 

ashjini

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It seems you have worked hard to get to your fit, with limited success.

What size shirts do you buy RTW?
 

antipode

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The RTW shirts are 15.5 collars. I gave up on the Charles Tyrwhitt and all the other Jermyn RTW lines long ago, since their longest shirts are still a good inch or two too short in the sleeve. At least every so often Liberty has something that's not too bad (and the often have good end-of-season sales which makes their shirts affordable).
Otherwise. I wear shirts with sleeves rolled up in summer, and under a jumper in winter when the fit isn't a big problem!
Thanks!!
 

recondite

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1. thrift
2. thrift or wear when painting the house
3. this is your best static fit, but as you noticed, you can't live in it, since it is too restrictive in at least one area.
4. this is your best fit to accommodate the demands of your body as you might move, but it needs to be let out in hip area 2-4". This shirt also has the best collar for your face and give a more tapered masculine silhouette than the shirt above.

You seem to be obsessed with perfect fit in a static position, which is unwise unless your shirting will stretch and really not necessary if you will be wearing the shirt under a waistcoat and/or suit jacket, or jumper.

I would only seek the fit of third shirt for casual wear exclusively without waistcoat or jacket, and only for one or two shirts worn casually to parties and such where I won't be required to sit down, dance, or otherwise move between the foyer and refreshments.

A second skin fit is one achievement, but being unable to move with comfort is something else. If you plan on modeling for a photo shoot, then by all means, go for the second skin fit. But if you plan on living in your clothes, you may seek another direction, or not.
 

ashjini

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Do you have a shirt whose fit you like?
If not, one that fits well on the body and the upper arms?

Take that shirt and measure it well. Pass those measurements to one of those low cost online MTM makers. They could replicate those measurements for you.


RTW, I wear 15.5 too and the longest sleeve available generally is 35. I need a 36.

For most cotton fabrics, the 35 gradually shrinks by about half inch leaving me with a shirt I wear coz I dont want to throw it.
 

antipode

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Thank you.
Yes, I want to be able to move!

I'm not after a perfect static fit, just something that looks like it belongs on me, and has that look more or less all over. For both MTM shirts I said 'slim but not too fitted'. The real problem with shirt number 4 is the way that the back sticks out as soon as I've moved, due to the way that the darts stiffed the back of the shirt between the top of the darts and the yolk. Perhaps if the hip was larger the shirt would sit better and stop riding up.

Hmmm.
Thank you again.



1. thrift
2. thrift or wear when painting the house
3. this is your best static fit, but as you noticed, you can't live in it, since it is too restrictive in at least one area.
4. this is your best fit to accommodate the demands of your body as you might move, but it needs to be let out in hip area 2-4". This shirt also has the best collar for your face and give a more tapered masculine silhouette than the shirt above.

You seem to be obsessed with perfect fit in a static position, which is unwise unless your shirting will stretch and really not necessary if you will be wearing the shirt under a waistcoat and/or suit jacket, or jumper.

I would only seek the fit of third shirt for casual wear exclusively without waistcoat or jacket, and only for one or two shirts worn casually to parties and such where I won't be required to sit down, dance, or otherwise move between the foyer and refreshments.

A second skin fit is one achievement, but being unable to move with comfort is something else. If you plan on modeling for a photo shoot, then by all means, go for the second skin fit. But if you plan on living in your clothes, you may seek another direction, or not.
 

Blackhood

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RTW, I wear 15.5 too and the longest sleeve available generally is 35. I need a 36.

For most cotton fabrics, the 35 gradually shrinks by about half inch leaving me with a shirt I wear coz I dont want to throw it.

T M lewin offer a 36" Sleeve off the rack.
 

recondite

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You are most welcome and I hope I helped.

Here is how the military and certain professions keep their shirt from riding up:



Personally, I just head to the loo to freshen up and readjust everything there.

The real problem with shirt number 4 is the way that the back sticks out as soon as I've moved, due to the way that the darts stiffed the back of the shirt between the top of the darts and the yolk. Perhaps if the hip was larger the shirt would sit better and stop riding up.
 
Last edited:

antipode

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Posting these photos has been very useful, since it makes it clear that Stephen Haroutunian don't have a cut that's right for me.
I think I'll have another attempt with Mangas, asking for something much more relaxed. Then I'll rethink the whole exercise.
I'm just glad that I don't work in an office where I have to have business wear.
I'll post the results!
 

Sander

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I think that all the shirts you posted look not bad. Way better than 90% seen irl.

That said, if you're not happy with them, just take the one you like best (the last seems pretty good), adjust the measurements a little and have it made at Cottonwork, Moderntailor or whatever. But you're already on a good level here.
 

ajmanouk

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Look pretty damn good to me, bud. Take that last shirt and use it as a base for online MTM. Best of luck!
 

GBR

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What does the MTM supplier not understand about your instructions? Or are they in fact just altering a standard pattern rather than cutting to fit you? Maybe try Ascot Chang from Hong Kong if you get visit them on tour or a higher end supplier than you are doing.
 

Shirtmaven

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the manga shirt is the best.
add up a little in the chest
sleeves are too long and cuffs look a little too large in circumference
 

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